FricFrac

I had some nasty backfire when I got into the throttle when one of my spark plug connectors modified itself from a 90 degree to a 180 degree connector on the dizzy.... There was enough fuel from the one cylinder that wasn't firing to get into the exhaust system to cause it to backfire.

The P79 AND P90 have the best quench which will be important in preventing detonation. There is so much info on here about L28ET builds including high compression that it's difficult to dig up and/or post all the info. IIRC Flatblack was running a high compression setup but a simple search will reveal a lot.... The stock intake manifold is quite restrictive. Although the L series isn't a cross flow head by the time they got to the P90 the head had been tweeked and optimized a fair amount and breathes quite well. It's fairly simple to reduce radiated heat from the exhaust. Wrap the header, turbo and downpipe and increase the size of the stock heat shield and add a heat screen to the shield itself. Regardless of which way you go if you focus on efficiency (more efficient modern turbo, efficient intercooler and setup, etc) you will be able to squeeze more power from any engine. Tuning on a dyno will let you get the max from your spark map BEFORE detonation occurs but without a tune on a steady state dyno for each cell it's nearly impossible to optimize power AND keep a margin of safety.

Isn't it the later "A" grind from the N42/N47/P79 you want to use the the P-90 head? http://atlanticz.ca/...s/cam/index.htm There is a "K" grind I've come across here in Canada. Didn't see it listed and I'm not sure what it's specs or suitability would be. Regardless the "A" grind is the hot cam for the turbo up to 400HP IIRC..... If you're running 10lbs of boost I'm assuming/hoping you're running an intercooler as well?

I'm sitting 4000 miles from home so I've been spending my time trying to figure out future phases of my projects. I'm just getting a base tune into my MSIII ECU and hopefully when I go home for four days I can get it in and running - we'll see. Anyhow my question is does anyone have any recomendation for COP for the L28ET? I'm realizing that there are two styles - digitally controled and just a simple coil on plug with no electronics. My main goal is to get a nice hot spark but I really want to clean up the engine bay as much as possible which is why I'd like to go with COP rather than coil near plug setup. (I've got a wasted spark setup I'll go to once I've got the MS3 up and running on the test mule). I think I would prefer the digitially controled as I can use the MS3X daughter board to fire those directly and I wouldn't need to use an additional IGBT to fire each coil. There doesn't seem to be a lot of info out there specific to which particular COP people are using with the L series. http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/ign1fd-ford-style-coil-on-plug-coil-p-428.html looks like a good COP at a low price but it would need a driver as well (which isn't a problem).

Strange. You said you were shooting flames out the back so it sounds like you ran out of spark not fuel. If you can't get enough fuel you should be running lean not rich enough to shoot flames. Sounded more like a week spark - are you sure it's not blowing it out at the higher PSI? Does it rev past 4.5K at low boost?

Awesome project. Very interested in the AWD setup.... Just curious why you went with the S13 Tein coil overs rather than the Megans?

Yea - I realized I have power door lock_ on the 280ZX not power door lockS

So it turns out the axel on the driver side is toast. Saved again by Mark with an arm load of rear end pieces. Put the new bearings in. Driver rear passenger caliper is on its way out so I'll have to replace that once the pads/rotors are done. Went to put my Tokico spring in and they won't go over the spring pearch. They are an 1/8" too small - weird. I picked up a set of used S13 Tokico springs/struts. Took the top hat for the rears off and put the Tokico springs and the 280ZX top hat on and it worked like a dream! Passed safety and importing is completed. Insured and on the road. We'll she's on the road and the 280ZXT is pretty impressive even out of the box. The Tokico springs take a lot of the mushy stock suspension out but I think I'd be a lot happier with around 350lb springs in the car. Did a cat delete and a crush bent 3" cat back into a Magnaflow 3" - a recycled exhaust from another car. The turbo cars are pretty responsive to an exhaust mod so not only do you get more power but it come's on quicker. I'd probably be happy with no muffler - the Magnaflow is pretty much straight through but quieter than I'd like. I'll do a Mandrel exhaust for the NA when I swap in the turbo and I'll use a short Walker Ultraflow round can for some more volume. A few interior pics...

Yup - use the NGK BPR6ES-11

You should get a Sombra K-9 RFID car alarm to go along with your keyless ignition. The keyless system I desgined uses the RFID so when you walk away from the car the doors automatically lock and the alarm is set (as well as a few other crucial systems being disabled) and the push button start will not work. Strangely enough I mentioned to the guy that was designing the DZ that the 370Z push button was what I was using since it had the Lock, ACC, Start built into the push button and it could be had a lot cheaper if you used either the Altima or Maxima push buttons instead....

Do you have a trailer? Four of my Z cars are from the US. It's easy to import and you should be able to get a solid shell at the very least. You know what rust is like on a Datsun - whatever you can see (including the area where the holes are now...) as far as rust goes you can at least double it where you can't see.... There are typically two kinds of Datsuns on the Island - Rotten and Restored. I've looked at lots - they are all the same.

There is a solution for CF/Fiber glass air dams - clear bra. If you want to keep the paint on your air damn this stuff is pretty amazing. 3M is one of the better product out there but there are others. Works with cones too

If you are doing your own fiber glass I would incorperate custom signal lights just under the bucket and wrap around the side a bit to incorperate the side marker as well then remove the one from the fender and fill that hole in. Make the custom lights under the bucket and have a piece of orange plexi cut and you can easily bend it by heating it. A little gasket material around your home made lens and you're good to go.

It would be nice if we had the option of a -19mm offset in the 9.5 like the RB-Rs. It's the only wheel that fits the S130 properly without spacers....

Definately a steel and they are a perfect fit on the S130 - the ONLY wheel I've seen that fits the S130 properly without spacers..... I asked about getting other Rota's in this offset but Kim says the closest would be the Grids at +12mm

The TTT ones are only $200 for the whole setup with hemi's and all. You'll never snap those guys - they are beefy! Just remember not to put the urethane bushings in your TC rod mounts....

Just wondering if you're running the MAP with runners from each individual throttle body tied together to give you a more stable MAP sensor reading at idle?

...and even if it did fit... it wouldn't work since its for a four banger and you're using a six....

Get a set of ITM pistons. They are typically around $32 a piece and they come with rings and wrist pins. They are very closely balance and hyperutectic. You can get a decent set of rings for about $110 from Rock Auto or a full set of pistons, wrist pins and rings for about $180...

If you pull the gauges make sure you grab the dash harness that goes to the main harness. That way people can convert to/from Digital/Analog. You can use the larger brake master but probably not the booster. The front struts the 510 guys usually want. Caliper are always useful. Fenders if they aren't rotten as well. T-Top weather stripping, front windshield, ECU, tail and marker lights including the ones in the front bumper. Trim pieces, Dash.

The optical wheel in the 82-83 is 54mm but it's 50mm to the outside of the windows (or slots or whatever you want to call the holes for the optical encoder). I suspect the KA ones which are listed as 50mm are inset more than the ZX ones so they won't pass in front of the optocoupler (probably 46ish mm to the outside of its optical window ring).

Lol - so just adding a shaft from the crank to the distributor makes it legal - that works Lucky Nissan changed the system after only one year on the '81 to the Dizzy version for '82-'83!

I put a set of rear Tokico S13 struts and Tokico 280ZX springs in my '83 280ZXT. I just pulled the top hat from the 280ZX and the springs and swaped it across - it's a direct bolt in....

Can you make the pictures a little smaller? There's too much detail..... I can hardly get it to fit in my 4x4 pixel display...

Absolutely the first thing to do in your engine bay is to make sure there is a good solid ground and good connections at the battery. The rest just follows. I also highly recommend running a star ground. I usually use the chasis ground from the battery to the chasis near the battery tray in the stock location. Run at least a 10 gauge wire through the passenger side firewall where the main harness enters and ground it by the stereo. You can use that as a main ground point inside the car. If you are running more than stock stuff of course you'll want to upsize. Run a second 8 gauge ground from the same star point in the engine bay through the passenger side fire wall and keep running it across the interior to the ECU. That will be one of the most important grounds for your ECU as it give the ECU the reference for 0V. Run a third 8 guage ground from the manifold to the ECU through the driver side firewall that the engine harness passes through. You want all your grounds to run to the star point for the ground but you want to run the ground reference for your sensors to the ECU to make sure it is 0V for reference from the sensors. So sensor grounds to ECU then ECU to the star ground point. Clean up the connectors (or better yet replaces the EV1 injector plugs) and run the grounds and you can potentially eliminate a lot of electrical gremlins in an older car....