FricFrac

Just as a FYI WIX lists the 280ZX and the Z32 300ZX as the same fuel filter....

Thermal plate doesn't flow oil to the cooler until the oil gets up to temperature (say 180 deg) It's not your oil pressure but oil flow that is important. You need to get the oil to where it is needed to lubricate parts to keep them from wearing. The viscosity of your oil drops as it's heated and it's not until it's up to temp that it's working optimally. The cooler will protect the oil and increase it's life as well as helping to manage engine temps by mainainting the 180 deg optimal temp. Without the thermal plate it will take much longer to get your oil to the operating temperature you want it to be running at. It works in a similar manner to your thermostat in your car but for a different purpose.

Look into swaping in a 240SX LSD pumpkin....

I see the latest version of the beta firmware for the MS3 has 360-6 encoder wheel support (as well as Nissan RB25 but I'm not familiar with it's wheel configuration). I don't see how the 360-6 would be able to give TDC for sequential injection, etc, since it's symetrical so if it does work would there be any advantage?

MSA sells aluminum rads....

The 280ZX was a new breed of Z car with "luxury" in mind. That meant power windows, A/C, leather seats, T-Tops and..... yes really floaty suspension. Get some stiff springs in there and it makes a world of difference. You may need to replace the bushings but its the springs that make the huge difference. New springs are the FIRST thing to do to a stock 280ZX.

I use a citrus based degreaser and it disolves the tar film better than any solevent I've tried. I LOVE the S130 and I want as many as possible to live but I'll also say it's never too late to turn back on a super rusty S130...... There are lots of cheap cars in the USA....

The RPM signal comes from the distributor not the ECU.... what kind of RPM signal does the Bee R need?

1. Yup - www.xenons130.com 3. What is the voltage when the car is running? EG a real multi meter unless you've calibrated the stock volt meter... 4. The chasis doesn't rattle - it's a body panel ,etc. If you're car is so rusty it rattles...

Every time I see one of those Firebirds I think of a water mellon on a skateboard....

The bigger deal is getting that weight down low especially if you already balanced - chop the fender and drop the battery down to the rail....

I think you can swap in the S13 pumpkin for an LSD but you'll have to search that one out. You can get a high performance KVR pad here

That will have a minimal impact in comparison to the other mods... it's more for keeping heat out of the car interior by that point....

The TPS isn't as critical but if you are shielding the other sensors why wouldn't you shield the TPS as well. The WB02 should be shielded as well - it's pre packaged but will you run it's harness directly to the MS? If not then run a shield up to it's cabling.

Yes that's what I said - use a resistor or use PWM with low impedance injectors....

DEI makes a great heat blanket with a mylar surface on one side the help reflect heat. Add that to the stock heat shield and it makes a huge difference. Header wrap as mentioned and a heat blanket around the inducer side of the turbo as well as the down pipe makes a significant difference as well

Shielded cabling is hardware filtering and one of the best solutions for noise in an engine bay.... Check the schematics on a KADE, etc the vast majority of the signals are shielded.... even the old stock L28ET has the O2 shielded.... RPM, O2 and TPS are the vast majority of the minimal signals required for MS to run... Sure lots of OLD EFI systems that weren't that complicated may not have used much in the way of shielding but newer systems which rely on more accuracy use shielded cables. Shielded cables prevent noise from even getting to the system. The additional cost of shielded cables is marginal but the benifits are very significant. Some of the most difficult issues to track down are noise related and if you are trying to patch it after the fact it can be very difficult. Start with a good base and you'll elimiate a lot of strife.

Patience - get the car running properly before you drive it. You should get it to idle properly first then run your VE tuning. If you think the tach wiring is the problem did you try disconnecting it and seeing how it ran? What do you mean you connected the wire and shield together?

As an Electronics Eng let me tell you NOT to buy the DIY wiring harness. You really should run shielded wiring in a electronicly noisy engine bay. I suppose you could buy the DIY but replace all the sensor wires with shielded ones. All modern vehicles have shielded signal wires. Even the stock 280ZXT harness has shielded O2 and optical dizzy wiring. It's true you will save some time installing but if you have any noise issues in your harness it's a major nightmare. Use the MS output for your spark - the IGBT on the MS board is uh more optimal (haha I almost said better but that would be against the rules It's designed to protect itself whereas the driver transistor on the turbo coil won't. Just bypass it.

"Is one of your driver transistors shorted?" Bingo!

You don't really need anything else. You should get your WB02 for when you install the MS3. You don't need the new optical wheel if you are not doing sequential injecton or distributorless ignition. MS3 will controll your fuel pump relay directly. You'll have to check but I believe you can controll the fan relay without any additional hardware with the MS3 (haven't installed my electric fans yet). For idle control a mechanically adjustable idle air feedback is a good idea - get rid of all the stock IAC and associated vacuum and heated water lines. You can change the stop on your throttle body for idle air but I believe a bypass system is a better way to do it. Your engine harness only needs to be split in a couple of places - you can see the custom one I built here - it's in a 280ZX but it will be a similar configuration for the S30.

Are you running batch injection? Are the banks fused seperately? Is one of your driver transistors shorted? Short on one of the banks to ground? Lots to check - just need more info....

Continuing with the tuning and tweeking. Getting some bucking at low RPM/Throttle. Turns out I was running too lean at cruise and with the AFR/EGO correction turned on it was leaning out my already lean map. Bumped the AFR down and it's running really nicely now. Just trying to figure out why it doesn't like Accel Enrichment. Going through the garage and "cleaning" (eg moving one pile to another spot to get a something then moving another pile to the old spot. It's kind of like those puzzles where you have one empty space and you slide the squares around.....) and found a few bits and pieces

Nice setup. You should really be running a thermal plate in conjunction with your oil cooler....

You want to cancel out the noise as close to the source as possible. Put the cap from the + side of the coil to ground. You can hook it up to the chasis but personally I'd probably run a ground wire from the battery to the body where you attached to the chasis. I really think running a wiring harness in an engine bay without shielded wires is a really bad idea. Even the stock harness at least shields the O2 sensor and CAS sensor - the DIY harness has nothing shielded. A shielded cable basically takes any noise that would be induced into the signal wire and it takes it instead along the outside shield and where it gets shorted out to ground at one end. There are enough challenges getting everything up and running let alone having to fight with EMI issues.... MOVs are for taking care of voltage spikes not typically canceling noise - not sure why they would use those on the solenoids? Typically you would use a snubber diode or cap for back EMF noise from a solenoid. You have a MOV built into your Mega Squirt PCB. The large cap would be to supply a large current surge to the coil charging it more quickly and giving you a hotter spark (hopefully....) but not for noise supression.