Sven

-Okay, I'll bite, what are these headers for?!?

Jamie, I just returned home. That's awesome news! Check your email. -Thanks, Sven

Looks good, but you really can't do much to make a GTO look bad. I would really think you'd have some major cooling problems, though. That rad opening is tiny. Ferrari added the three "u" ducts for a reason. The original 427 Cobra prototype had a similar arrangement until they enlarged the radiator opening a bit. edit: On second thought, the G-nose has a similarly sized opening, so it can be made to work...

Well HeatRaveR, I found the site! It was less than I remembered, too. It seems like a good option for those who aren't really repairing damage, but just beefing it up a bit. I would like to see if the frame rail caps extend the whole way back, though. (click on Products) http://www.baddogparts.com/

By all accounts I've heard the AWD Safari (Astro) transfer case is the exact unit used in the Syclone/Typhoon, and very tough. This comes from a guy I knew who street raced street bikes for $ in his Syclone.

There is a person or company on the east coast selling a frame rail reinforcing kit, and "jacking rails" to beef up the rockers. In my great windows crash I lost my bookmark to that site. I've been searching for a week now. Does anyone know what site I'm talking about? I'd really like to pick these up. They were @ $150 as I recall.

Tony, I've racked my brain, but I can't remember what we used to make the wax dissolve. Sorry, but its been over 10 years. Ferd, is this the book you mean? Fiberglass & Composite Materials I also found: (click, then scroll down the page for two more) Fibreglast.com

I think I've seen this pic here before...

Here's a tip for a release agent. At the ornamental fiberglass place I worked at in my teens we kept Johnson paste wax on a hot plate. We applied the melted wax to the molds with a 2" paintbrush. You then let it harden/cool before applying resin and mat (or going at it with "the gun"). It works quite well, and will save you the extra cleanup step with the Pam. I do like the use of kitchen products, though!

Maichor, any idea on your weight increase with the S-car setup? It makes for a surprisingly straight forward install. Good work. It opens up a world of options- part wise.

Mike, I thought I was the only one that knew about the Quantico backroads! Smooth asphalt, banked turns in places, and -my favorite- elevation changes mid turn. My best Z driving experiences are on those roads. Catching a little air around a bend gets me giggling like a kid on a rollercoaster. There was a small shop nearby where I hung out alot before I joined the Navy (forget the name), and the owner had numerous Datsuns. Is it still there? The guy really knew Z's. I had some work done on my 260 there, but mainly I just loitered. The owner had a yellow 280 with some suspension work and he tossed me the keys from time to time. The thing handled like a go-kart.

Rent a portable pavement saw and get the abrasive metal blades. -Goes through sheetmetal like butter. It's basically a chainsaw with a 10-12" disc. They're alot of fun too! I prefer Partner saws personally. The other option is to buy abrasive disc blades for your circular saw. It's the same idea, just not as much grunt. You will also go through more blades. And I definitely second the sawzall for the crazy stuff. Say a few words for the dearly departed for me... I may be interested in the roof to "un-modify" my sunroof.

*It's time for "tough love"* -Having spent thousands with my last Z on "just" frame rails and floorboards, ending up with a car that was still as stiff as a wet noodle... start over. It's not nice to hear, but honest and realistic. Some of us had to learn the painful way. At $800, the car is not a loss and is a good deal for a parts car. You can find a decent affordable Z for little $ if you look hard enough. If the frame rails are already gone, then be afraid of what lurks elsewhere. Unless you have some super rare 432-Z that was shipped to America, it's just not worth it. The unibody is much more than what you see. There are unseen joints in nooks and crannies that contribute greatly to chassis rigidity. Shady sellers often hide things behind pretty bodywork and undercoating. My 260 was showcar beautiful, inside and out, but honestly dangerous to drive - even after the frame repairs. It handled unpredictably. You'll be chasing down structural problems forever instead of doing what we all want to do...make a stinking fast Z. I would have had a Hybrid finished years ago if I had been smart. Be honest with yourself and what you can afford. It's much cheaper to start with a solid car. A well prepared Z is a fantastic car to drive, I wish you luck!

Ixnay on the atchhay. -The car looks awesome, though. The black taillight panel should finish up the rear. While we're thinking Mopar, maybe add a hockey-stick or Bumblebee stripe. Check out: http://graphic-express.com/sm_dodge_plymouth.htm Something similar to the "1973-74 Dart Sport side, over roof stripe kit", that matches the curve of the quarter window would look pretty cool. Man, you're making me rethink solid black or silver!

I've been tossing this one around for a while. I searched and all I get is the usual newbie "Has anyone ever done a Ford Z" posts. - I'm just not real satisfied with the idea of using restrictive blockhuggers with tiny collectors and foot long primaries on a built motor. Sure, OK for a street rod... But I've already put alot into my motor, just to choke it off. My AFR 185's deserve a bit more. Custom made long tube headers would end up being a small fortune. Has anyone attempted to adapt a set of the Hooker SBC/Z headers (2147HKR)? Every header manufacturer sells the SBF flanges, or you could just cut up a cheap set of Ebay specials. It would take some cutting & welding of primary tubes to make the center ports line up, but it seems doable. This would give you a Ford long tube header that fits the Z frame/floorpan and steering arrangement, which seems to be the major stumbling block. Of course, engine position would dictate whether it would fit nicely or not, but it should be fairly close. -Any thoughts or experiences?

damn bats!!!

There are pics on the Reaction Research site of both the SubtleZ kit and Dan Juday's car with the SubtleZ/YZ combo. Check it out. FWIW, the YZ fronts are meant to accept up to 12" wheels, which is a crazy amount of tire for a street car.

I've used the green bulb covers with Ultralights. I tried orange but it just looked goofy. The green ended up almost having an Indiglo effect at night. They weren't blinding-bright, but easily readable (and my night vision sucks). I'm sure with the white face Phantoms you would have no problems. There are also brighter instrument bulbs out there, and I've even seen blacklight bulbs too -just don't ask me where... Hope that helps some.

wiggle, bounce, dance, get naked

You know, I think the only thing truly wrong looking is the windshield. Other than that it's just a stretch Bluebird. It's workable. Needs chrome bumpers, though. I guess I have a soft spot for the 1600/2000. Its how I ended up getting a Z. I heard stories growing up about my mom's 2000. -Yeah, my mom owned a Bob Sharp race prepped Datsun 2000... there was no hope for me! She used to tell me stories about dusting musclecars in Chicago in '70/71. She says she always pulled away on the top-end (what other car had a close ratio 5 speed in 1970?). Things like that don't happen anymore. You just don't see road racing cars going "back to the streets". I've read a similar story about one of the BRE 510's. Someday I'll buy one to fix up for her. I'll have to scan some pics. I still have the BSR "Racing Modifications" manual too. I'd Ebay it, but it has too much sentimental value. -Wow, holy thread hijack, sorry Aux!