TimZ

Agreed - I was referring to assuming that you'd be able to get a GT47 (or something similarly huge) to spool at lower rpms. Problem with these turbos is that they generally don't make them with ARs below .96, and that's with a T4 housing. I've not seen anybody offering "Frankenstein" GT4x series turbos with small hot sides. So, yeah - I don't think you are going to spool one of those at much below 6000. Maybe 5500, but certainly not 4000, let alone 2000.

I was hoping he meant MAP instead of O2

I'm pretty sure that's not how this is going to work. I would not expect to see much if any difference between this and a well-prepped n- or p-series head until you are beyond _at least_ 4500rpm (probably higher). The huge difference comes into play when you realize that you can hit that 600lb-ft torque peak at maybe 6000 rpm and then manage to hold that peak out to 9000 or higher. That's where the huge power happens -we would be talking about over 1000hp at the flywheel in this case. For real. You should _not_ expect a GT47 (min turbine AR is 0.96) to spool before 6000, even with a 3.4 litre. That's a really big friggin' turbo! Not for the faint of heart.

I like that he appears to have actually built that car just to make the spoof video. That's commitment!

I think Derek wants this stuff to go in another thread, so this is the last time I'll mention it here. Kameari gives no torque ratings and I'd be worried that it won't be enough given that it's based on the fs5w71b. I know they make good stuff, but I'm not sure that this is what they had in mind for that gearset. It would likely be a _great_ solution for a high output NA setup using this head, though. This will likely be borderline too much for a Gforce T5 (500lb-ft, 600hp in a 3300lb car with drag slicks). If you can figure out the T56 fitment (it's been done), Gforce has a gearset for that, too. It's rated at 1000lb-ft, 1200hp and should be enough. Also you'll probably want to consider dog-ring synchros if you are going to want to be able to shift at 9000+rpm. Again - whole different world.

Agreed - I wasn't trying to throw a wet blanket on the head. I was getting the distinct feeling that people weren't realizing the extent to which this is a whole different world when we start talking about using it in a serious turbo setup. Anybody that would actually be considering doing this should already be aware and willing to spend the money/effort, or they'll find out really quick just how far in over their heads they are. I'm waiting to pick up a head really cheap from one of those guys...

For a turbo setup, you're talking about WAY more than 400lb-ft. This is going to be 600lb-ft at the flywheel at an absolute minimum. Finding a clutch for this will also be challenging.

Look in the service manuals that I linked.

I would not have assumed that, as I thought at a minimum the wheel offsets were different. However a quick check with a 240Z service manual (found here) confirms that they were in fact the same.

The "Rockford Turn" is still my favorite maneuver...

Yes, I believe so. As you already noted, the "at curb weight" part is still important, as the wheel ends move in an arc with suspension travel.

No - it should still work, as offset is measured from the tread centerline to the WMS, a wider tire wouldn't have an effect.

The 280Z wheels were not zero offset - they had a 15mm (0.59") offset which I'm assuming was positive. So I'm pretty sure that this means you would have to add two times the offset to the the tread width to get the WMS-to-WMS dimension, assuming that tread width is measured to the center of the treads. WMS-to-WMS will change too.

Aluminum rad here too. The weld cracking issue that they mention is likely due to trying to bolt the rad to the rad support. They don't generally like being subjected to stresses from the body twisting. The workaround isn't that hard - either fab a cradle to hold it or use rubber islolators.

Okay, I have to ask - what boost are you planning to run with this? I'm assuming that the Chinese GT35Rs claim to have the same compressor maps - if so, then they won't be particularly happy at low boost (<1.5PR). Are you planning to intercool it? If you plan to run where the turbos be happier (~2.0 - 2.5PR), you'll probably want to. If you do then it seems like you are going to be somewhere around 800hp (or higher). Do you have a trans that can survive? That's going to require a lot of fuel - what are you planning to do for a fuel system?

I don't think that this is your immediate problem, but the stock fuel pump has an internal pressure relief that I believe was set to ~55psi for non-turbos. So your rising rate FPR likely won't add nearly as much fuel as you might expect. For instance, as I recall your stock base fuel pressure is 37psi, and as Tony pointed out the ECCS mapping ends at 10 psi boost, at which point your "normal" fuel pressure would be 47psi. Fuel flow increases with the square root of pressure, so the most additional fuel you'll be able to add will be about 8% over what was available at 10psi. If you want to use the FMU as intended you really need to go to a pump that can supply the additional fuel at the pressures you'll require. It might not be your immediate problem, but it will be soon...

Well in that case I'm happy to have not helped. You're welcome.

90psi at higher rpms is pretty typical if you have the high pressure relief spings in your pump. If it's not going higher than that I wouldn't worry too much, except for keeping the revs down until the engine warms up, which is good practice anyway.

What does MS do for acceleration enrichments? TPS-based? Sounds like either too much or too little extra fuel being injected when you snap the throttle open.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#weld-bungs/=yq07mq 1/2" NPT should be sufficient - you can then use a hose barb or and AN fitting if you like. If you want to do an AN fitting, I'd use a -10 (~5/8" id). Also, I use teflon hose for this application because it's temperature rating is higher, and then I use a firesleeve over that. Look really closely at how you would route the hose - the minimum bend radius of these hoses isn't very small, and angled fittings/hose ends use up the available space really quick and don't always come out at the angles that you need. Offsetting the weld bung a bit from the oil drain of the turbo might might help by giving you a bit more room to work with. Finally, remember to locate the weld bung above the oil fill line, and such that it lines up between the bolt holes so you can still assemble it

Get a service manual and check the harness drawings - the EFI in the 280Zs had it's own harness that only connected to the rest of the electrical system in a couple of places - you can likely just pull the whole EFI harness in one piece rather than trying to hack it up and wondering where the rest of it goes.

The only thing I would worry about would be the possibility of some swarf being hidden away in the cracks and dislodging later. Your pickup screen should catch most of that but still. Glyptal would be the only thing I would consider if I wanted to put anything in there.

Yep - Ford did in the new Mustang GT350. I've been seeing quite a few of them at the Dearborn Test Track and they sound pretty friggin' awesome. http://articles.sae.org/13709/ It looks like there may be a VooDoo crate motor, but I'll bet it will be pricey.

^^This^^ Stop obsessing over what new parts to throw at it until you understand what problem you are trying to fix. Your description indicates that you have interference at some point in your suspension's travel. Changing springs/shocks might lessen the occurrence, but it won't make this problem go away. You need to find the interference point and either address it or limit the suspension travel. If you are dragging the frame rails on the ground or bottoming the suspension with two people in it then that's a different issue, but that's not what you have described so far.

Here's mine: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-RYqXFguLs50/U2ULvwiG9PI/AAAAAAAAEbU/y5n1eNrpwBo/s1152-Ic42/Z%252520on%252520road.jpg Did it before the bolt-ons became as popular as they are now, but still like them.