TimZ

Thanks CM - you saved me a bunch of typing! Interesting note on the Green (medium strength) Loctite - it is formulated to work similarly to a penetrating oil - it's intended to be usable on already assembled joints. It's now my favorite as it's much more versatile. Also on the Red Loctite - IME it's fine on "graded" (grade 5 or 8.8 or higher) bolts 8mm (5/16") or larger. I agree I wouldn't use it on bolts smaller than that.

As far as I know there is no difference between model years. Thread size and pitch are definitely the same, but I won't swear as to the depth of the hole. I would highly recommend one of the stronger bolt/washer combos, both for the higher torque capacity (at least in the case of the Kameari bolt), and the added thickness of the washer will hold that higher torque. Not sure why rebello would say it wasn't required. As far a worries about the stepped washer, yeah you need to measure things to make sure the washer doesn't ground out to the crank snout. Flipping the washer does alleviate the interference issue, but also gives a bit less thread penetration for the bolt. You can also machine the step down a bit to gain clearance. You also need to measure and make sure that the bolt doesn't bottom out in the hole, btw. Also - ditch the oil slinger. It will only cause problems for you. The stamped steel will deform under use and cause you to lose clamping force. People get way too freaked out by red loctite. It will still come loose - you'll have to block the crank rotation well (have to do this anyway) and it'll fight you a bit but it will come out, especially with a bolt this size. You'll find that it helps to reverse the bolt rotation a half turn every three or four turns on the way out. You don't need to heat it to 550F. At all.

LOL - Now or 14 years ago when this thread was fresh? I don't keep track.

I'm having trouble buying into this - what is the reasoning?

If the ride height is too high in the front then you need to adjust the spring perch down. Having the springs touching the lower perch isn't a requirement for many of these setups. It's very common for the spring to be loose at full droop, especially when you start using stiffer springs.

If your car weighs less than 3000lbs and you're still using the strut suspension then it's compressing 3" or less. That's what the 250lb/in means - it compresses 1 inch for every 250 lbs of force applied to it (i.e., weight you put on it in this case). Changing the length doesn't change the amount it compresses, it changes the amount that it _can_ compress before it binds. All that said, a quick check of the Eibach ERS spring charts shows that even the 8" spring (the shortest 250lb/in spring they offer) has a bit over 5" of travel, so it shouldn't be binding. That leaves the possibility of your spring perch being too low (which is kind of a simlar problem to too short a spring), or maybe the strut being cut incorrectly, leaving your desired ride height too close to the bottom of the strut's travel

Correct - the vid is not sped up (watch the other cars and the roadway), and Yes it's my car - I really like this just because I never get to see or hear it from outside!

One of my son's friends made this video and sent it to me, in case anybody was interested in what this looks/sounds like IRL...

They're likely not too soft - just too short. A 250 lb/in spring should compress a bit less than 3" on any corner of a typical Z. Properly sized lengthwise, such a spring should have no issue whatsoever supporting your z at any ride height that the strut will allow.

First - thanks Chickenman - your input was very helpful. Second - just ordered four of these from Koni - they had none in stock in the US and had to get them from their warehouse in Holland. Sounds like I should get them some time in May..

Maybe a dumb question, but are you running the same shocks in the rear, and do you have any idea how these shocks compare to the 8610 RACE shocks? I'd like to switch to Konis and my fronts are sectioned, but my spring rates are too low for the 8610/8611s.

I'll second that - I have a Dewalt electric die grinder, and it's quite probably my favorite tool (and I have a lot of tools). Just get it - you won't be sorry!

Yeah, I would start with the stock MC, and if that doesn't work, this MC from Wilwood comes in several sizes, and you can exchange the stock actuator rod bits so it will bolt right in. You will need an adapter to go from 1/8"npt to 10mm.

I'm running 3 of the 11"x11" Hydramats in parallel in my modified '78 tank. Overkill, but I'm using an external Weldon Pump with it and wanted to make sure to keep the inlet restriction down. I kept the stock baffles, but had to remove the stock swirl pot.

Yep - The stock 5-speed in my Z didn't start having problems until I was well past 400hp. At 300hp a well-sorted stock 5-speed should be fine. The T56 Magnum mentioned above was for _much_ higher power and torque levels.

I just run it straight to the booster, but if you can find room for a reservoir, it certainly wouldn't hurt.

As i said it was several years ago and I don't remember the exact amount. There was a significant amount of material removed, though. I went and found the thread where we were discussing this at the time and it appears it was on the order of 3 grams/rocker:

Do you have a local fastener supplier? A quick google search turned this up: http://www.hkfastener.com/

Yeah I had some time on my hands while the block was at the machine shop I'd be a bit leery about drilling holes too - these rockers also weighed significantly less (don't remember the amount offhand - it was several years ago) and have had no issues whatsoever. To Chickenman's point, I also paid a lot of attention to details like eliminating potential stress risers, trying to get the direction of grinding/polishing aligned down the length of the part, and spent a lot of time polishing them. Those took me roughly 8 hours each to complete.

I did something more like this:

With an aggressive cam, you're likely always going to be on the low side for acceptable vacuum for the booster. A better solution for this would be to get an electric brake booster vacuum pump from any number of diesel cars out there. Wire it up with a hobbs switch to regulate the vaccum and you're good to go. Here's the pump that I use: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2007-2008-2009-AUDI-Q7-4L-ELECTRIC-BRAKE-BOOSTER-VACUUM-PUMP/152867717124?fits=Make%3AVolkswagen&hash=item2397a04004:g:fpoAAOSw2LZaXTPT&vxp=mtr

I run that cam too - no piston clearance issues, but I did have to be very careful to maintain adequate clearance between the stem seals and the bottom of the valve spring retainers at max lift. Regarding the flow numbers, at .485 lift you are into the flatter part of the flow curve, so it should work just fine for you. A higher lift cam would net you a bit more flow, but mostly by spending more time in the "flat" portion of the flow curve. I believe that the more "mainstream" cams have lower lift because that leaves more margin for error for less experienced builders. They will work with stock valve springs and there is still ample clearance between the retainer and the stem seal, for instance. They will generally just "bolt in" and work.

Too many redirects:

Of course this method is easier - it doesn't tell you anything useful. If you don't know where the crank is with any accuracy then the position of the cam timing mark is meaningless. FFS you have the engine apart - go buy a $40 magnetic base dial indicator and a timing wheel and learn do degree the cam and do it right. It isn't that hard,to learn how to do and when you're done you will understand the answers to all the questions you are asking.

Actually Tamo3 has the voltage meter configured the way Datsun did it - hot at all times. It certainly wouldn't hurt anything to rewire it as seattlejester suggests, but it doesn't draw very much current. Tamo3 - great job! Glad you stuck with it and got to the bottom of the issue.