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Ricardo, Hi, It's Tom. I think you are certainly in the ball park with a 24mm spacers. The only why to really know if the tire/wheel are positioned the way you want, is to install them and check for clearance....then adjust the spacer width as required. This is the way I did it anyway. Talk at you soon!

Idiot drivers, money hungry lawyers, and dumb jury members.......bad combination! Gee, let's see...if I buy a knife and cut myself it's the knife manufactures fault? If I smoke cigarettes (which I don't) and I get cancer, it's the cigarette manufactures fault? If I miss the toilet and pee on my leg, it's the toilet manufactures fault? If I get wet, it's the water's fault? Man, what is this country coming to.....a bunch of finger pointing bleeding heart liberal. Why don't they just TAKE RESPONSIBILITY FOR THEIR OWN STUPID MISTAKES!!!! (Sorry for the political twist)

The laws of physics just don't change do they! OK, this is a Chip Moose Custom....right???

I'm running 215-40 x 17 on the front, on 8" wide wheels and all is well! Your tire/wheel combo should be fine. I just wish the tire companies, other than NITTO, would produce 225-40 x 17.

Just a note about how long freshly sandblasted parts take to start rusting.......as soon as you stop sandblasting! You may not see it happening right away, but the process of oxidation is an on going event and starts as soon as the bare metal is left unprotected....that goes for all metals however, at different rates.

Always check the simple things first.....like the ground connection to the chassis from the battery. The symtem you describe leads me to think you just have a bad/corroded ground at the chassis. Worth looking at anyway!

Based on my personal experience dealing with Dave Rebello, which has been nothing but a good experience, the modified SU's Dave provides are intended for large cc L6 motors that require a larger fuel/air mixture for maximum performance. He bores them out to 50mm, install custom flat cross-section throttle shafts/butterfly, uses custom profiled needles, and gives you a product that looks too good to use. I'm sure I've not listed all the little things he does to them but one thing is for sure, these SU's look like jewery!

There are wheels that look like they belong on show cars and there are wheels the look like they belong on race cars.....this wheel looks like it belongs on a show car. Personally, I prefer the wheels that look like they belong on a race car.....but everyone has their own flavor of wheel.

Man, that 1100cc kart sure would be a hoot to drive!!! I've seen this video before and enjoy watching again and again.

When choosing wheels, be aware that there are cast wheels and there are forged wheels......the latter being more expensive. The forged wheels are usally the lightest and are intended for racing. The forging process results in a stronger grain structure and allows the wheel to be built light but yet strong. However, cast wheels are fine but usally weigh more and cost less and will typically survive the many obsticles the street has to offer.

I think if you contact RAY'S directly you may discover you can have them done specifically for you.....offset and lug pattern. Of course it will cost more and take longer to get. Alot of the wheel manufacture, if contacted directly, will build you a set of wheels to your requirements. Yah, a set of bronze TE37 on a lowered early Z would look very good. Maybe 17's or 18's!?

IMO, excellent choice!

Are you sure the differential, with the 3.36 gearing, is an R200? I'm quessing it's an R180 with the 3.36 gearing. I quess I've just never seen or heard of an R200 with 3.36 gears.

Scott, The simple solution is this....just don't pull up so close. Works every time and cost $0.00

Technically speaking a damper does not effect a spring's rate but, will vary the speed at which the spring responds to movement. Basically, the more you increase the damper adjustment (if it has one) the slower the spring will respond. The more you decrease the damper adjustment, the faster the spring will respond. That why John suggests the Illuminas....they are adjustable.

Another easy solution is to run slightly taller tires (larger O.D.), as long as they fit without rubbing.

Have you cleaned out the piston ring grooves? Are the pistons within spec and usable? Have you ever built an engine before?

First of all, buy yourself a factory service manual so you can become familiar with the details of your Z. Secondly, replace all the old rubber bushings.....you'll be glad you did!

Yes, life is about the journey not the destination! Isn't that one of the reasons we own Z cars?

The thing I don't understand is why the show doesn't use a christmas tree.....just like any other drag race??? Would seem to me to be way more accurite and fair. Surely the show could afford that little item!!? IMO, the show is lame, right along with the dorks on Unique Whips and other like shows. I wouldn't let some of these guys work on a rollerskate!

You've posted a pretty vauge question! For starters, it might help to at least know what car they would be going under! And there is of course the search function, that does have a load of info.

How about installing a Honda CRF450R motor! I believe they produce about 54 HP and have a nice smooth power delivery...unlike the peeky 2 stroke motors.

Good catch! I'm guilty too! Gee, the only excuse I can scrape up is, that I've been out of school for over 30 years!!

Depending upon what size tires you intend to run, either ratio could be fine. If you go to one of the TIRERACK sites, they provide you with a formula for calculating your speed, based on RPM, tranny ratios, differential ratios, and drive tire diameter.

Clueless and paranoid granny!!!?