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240Zprace, Try this method and it should confirm your question. On your existing wheels, check and messure the clearances you have (inside of wheel to strut/spring as well as outside of wheel to inside of body). Now measure your existing wheel to figure out it's width and offset. Once you have figured that out, now you can calculate if the new wheels will fit. If still a little lost....reply.

Well, without knowing much about your personal life, I'd say either you are single and or devorced, or you spend alot of time sleeping on the couch or maybe the garage...which isn't a bad idea as long as the garage has a Z in it!!! There is an old saying...."Never get into an arguement with an idiot, because they'll bring you down to their level and them whip you with experience".

Here's a little info to clarify the bumpsteer issue on early Zs (or any car for that matter) to the uninformed..... Basically the problem is the geometrey between the front pivot arm (transverse link) and the steering rack. Ideally you want the inner pivot point on the transverse link to be in the same horizontal plain as the pivot joint on the end of the rack. In this condition, both pivoting members will have the same (very similar, anyway) travel path and not induce bumpsteer into setup. The bumpsteer occurs when the two pivoting members are at different locations, relative to the horizontal plain. When the locations are not on the same plain, they take different travel paths when the suspension moves up and down. I know this is a very general description of what is going on and does not address all the variables, but it might shed some light on the subject to thoughs who have wondered what bumpsteer is about. In stock form, the Z's pivoting members are not in the same plain.....thats production engineering for you!!! Maybe someone can add to this statement, as I am not the greatest at explaining things sometimes.

Olie05, So, don't forget to fix your pinched headlight wiring or you may just wind up with the same problem later on, at a most inopertune time!!!

Pusher, The LSD carrier will fit into the R200 housing, but as J. Soileau mentioned, the number of splines is at question. Count the number of splines on your half shaft input (into diff) and find out if they will match the LSD carrier. If they have the same spline count, your in business. It's likely to be 29 splines.

What is an AAR???

My suggestion is to go with the light flywheel now, because you have the engine out and won't have to pull the engine again to install it later. Save your $$$ and purchase the LSD later on down the road. The only plus side to my suggestion is, you will save yourself labor and maybe a fewer busted knuckles if you go with the flywheel first.

Install it, as it will work, and get on down the road. If you've never set-up a differential before, take it to a qualified mechanic....if not you may find that you will be spending more money than you originally intended. Again, R200 carriers will work in other R200s.

I think the funny thing is, is that for the most part, the people who probably really need to read the warning label are people who probably can't read!!! Next thing you know they will be putting warning labels on bottled water that say...." WARNING THIS BOTTLE CONTAINS WATER, IT IS WET AND HAS BEEN KNOWN TO CAUSE DEATH BY DROWNDING!"

Loose Screws, I order to know how thick the wheel spacers need to be, you must first know the specifications of the wheels you intend to use, ie., rim width and offset or rim width and back set. According to the Ebay listing, these spacers are 2" wide (50.8mm). So, as an example.....if you use these spacers with a wheel with 50mm offset, you would have 0 offset. If the wheel had less than 50mm offset, you would reduce the backset, placing the wheel further out (increasing the track). Do a search on this site! There is bound to be info that will help explain it further. Hope this helps you a little!

Very interesting car! I think I would be concerned about the lack of protection below the bottom frame rail...it looks like the only thing protecting your bottom (butt) is the floor pan assy. OK, it might be a CF piece, substancial enough for impact protection.

jmortensen, Thanks for backing me up and providing the little details. I am always a little liery about here-say information and tend to listen to the manufactures that make the parts and race the parts as well. Thanks again jmortensen

Just a little information on installing a R200 LSD (late model 12mm bolts) into an R200 with 10mm bolts on the ring gear. I just got off the phone with Precision Gear...I placed an ordered for a R200 LSD (clutch type with 4 pinion spider) intended for the 12mm bolts. They told me that if you use spacers to take up the tolerance between the 10mm and 12mm bolt thru holes in the carrier, be sure they are not too long...infact they told me you do not need the spacers because the clamping force of the bolts is what actually holds the ring gear securely. The slight tolerance is not an issue. They said they have done many race cars in this fashion without a problem. By the way..Precision Gear's part number for the R200 LSD is #LOM59-12 ($602.95)....not bad for a new unit. Their phone number is (734) 946-0524 Hope this helps solve the issue of using spacers.

demidion is right! If your a tall person (5' 10" or better) you might want to look at a set of SPARCO entry level and certified race seats. The butt pad portion of the seats are suspended similar to the stock seats and won't put your head up against the headliner. How do I know this? Went through this exercise myself. My seats are in a fixed position and by drilling additional holes in the stock seat brackets they bolted right up. I actually used some of the stock round plastic seat spacers to get my seatback angle to my satisfaction. These seats are like a glove....absolutely perfect for performance driving. They take a little getting used to, to get in and out of them.....probably a little more effort with a rollcage. I payed $200.00 each and they will accommodate a harness as well. Just my two cents worth...hope it helps you out some.

Market it!!! Chances are good you could make a small bundel-O-cash. Looks just like one might suspect it should, for something in a hospital. Nice work!

A fine time to point that out...... Thanks for the thought though!

I agree with Mike. At your stage in life, just chock it up to experience. Besides, why would a young guy like you want to get tied down so soon. Live a little, start a career, go to the gym, rebuild a Z car......... P.S. Don't tell me....you got your ex pregnant! Time will heal all....been there done that a number of times (not the getting her pregnant thing)...you will survive.

Maybe we could get Diane Fienstein and Barbara Boxer to join them. (move to Canada) Wouldn't that be grand? Come to think of it....how about adding to that list; Charles Schummer, Ted Kennedy, Hillary Clinton....I know there could be more!

Come on how, what did you do to her and how old are you? Come on.....tell us the truth...waiting for reply!!!

Check out Vintage-TechZ's posts. He is fabricating Cf parts as we speak!

Maybe I'm blind, but I didn't see any CF parts on the 240Z in the attachment!!?

A couple of very agressive pitbulls, chained to the car, would work well.

I for one would be interested in a SBF install kit. Maybe you could put this guy in touch with Terry Oxendale....Terry could surely shorten your guys learning curve...you know, avoiding some of the unknown obsticles that arrise when doing these conversions. But again, yes I am interested! Tom

I believe going with a turbo charger rather than a superchager is the prefered route. There's a guy back east (President of one of the Z clubs) who is running a supercharger....nice install but nowhere near 600HP! I think there is only one supercharger kit available for the L6... and I believe Jim Cook Racing has them still.

I would recommend using the 5 spd (B unit...close ratio) out of a 280ZX. But, be sure to check your rear end gearing... the 81 -83 Zx 5 spd is intended to have a 3.90 gearing. 4.11 would be really nice for playing however!