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When I first saw this post, Need cross-threading advise, I was very curious as to the content of the post! After reading the first post I thought.....well, he certainly doesn't need any advise on cross threading, as it seems he has accomplished the task without a problem!!!

I came up with a really cheap way to solve the problem of a less than acceptable operating wiper motor assy.....I took the damn thing out and put it in a box!

I believe he said the RINGLANDS will give out at around 400RWHP.....not the rings!

Tim, decal looks great! So, how does one go about aquiring a couple of these bad boys? I'm sure it will make my 240 much much faster...just kidding about the go faster!

Clifton, I checked out the pic of your rear tire/wheel setup. Your Z sits, what looks about, 1" to 1 1/2" higher than My 240. Now I see how they would fit. On my setup, the top of the 234-40 x 17 sit abpout even with the fender opening. What rate springs are you running in the rear?

Very interesting.....got pics? I'm currently running 235-40 x 17 on 9" wide wheels on the rear, with coilovers/ 8" springs. Struts have been shortened 1.5". I have approx 1/8" clearance between the inside edge of the wheel and the strut tube and if I put on a tire wider than 235mm I would certainly rub the inside of the rolled fender lip. Would like to see pics of your setup...maybe I'll learn something!

John, has anybody told you you do nice work! By the way, is that your Harley I see next to the compressor?

BarBeequed (like the spelling?) for me....and don't forget the Pacifico beer! I think it's a good sign, when people talk a little trash about the Hybridz site....just means we're doing it right and they're just jealous...na, na, nana, na!!!!

Terry is correct! IIRC, the real purpose for installing the bumpsteer spacers is to reposition the transverse links back to or near the original geometry...when a Z has been lowered a significant amount...and thats about it! I'm currently hunting for a front crossmember for my 1970 so I can do the pivot point mod without having the additional down time, if I were to use the one in my Z. Anyone help me out with a spare (straight) crossmember? I may even do the adjustable ball-joint mod to the transverse links as well. Ah hell, the next thing you know I'll be doing the CV drive axle mod....only time and $.

Somehow I had the feeling you two guys would add to the post. You guys are always worth listening to...I always look forward to your comments.! So, John and Terry...if I put flames on my Z will it make it faster? JUST KIDDING YOU TWO!!!!!

Good question! I would think that any significant data would very difficult to obtain since there are so many variables to concider! However, you would think that someone at some time had some sort of data on the rear spoiler....but then again, it may have been nothing more than seat-of-the-pants engineering. I mean, thats how all the old boys did it back then!!! I have a 1970 and while it sits pretty low (3.75" at the front crossmember) I still felt some front end lift at speeds over say 70mph. So, I decided to use the original type spoilers as were on the old 240 race cars (BRE front air dam/432 type rear spoiler). After installing them I went for a test drive, and hot damn the Z felt much more stable at speed. It was definitely worth the investment (approx $250.00). I'm sure someone will jump in and provide a better answer than I provided.

Very interesting! One think to consider is the potential of creating a hot spot by adding the groves! I'm not suggesting this groving method does not do something to the swirling of the fuel/air mixture during the compression stroke and has been believed to have decreased detenation for someone, but if the groves were done in such a way as to leave pointy areas in the combustion chamber area (pointy spots are heated easier than a relatively flat area, typically left by most professional head modifying speciaists) you may just wind up making the detenation problem worse. Hot spots do attribute to detenation. You may ask yourself if any of the top head porting folks are using this method? Also, I agree that adding the groves will certainly decreases the compression ratio. One additional thought to consider...just because someone publishes something in a magazine such as Popular Mechanics does not not make it gospel. All to many times people read articles and without question accept it as the true! Hummmmmmmmmmm!!?

Yep! That's the one! They work really well, doen't cost $800.00 plus, and you won't have to wait weeks and weeks to get it. These puppies are DURABLE as well. The folks at Precision Gears are true professionals. Give then a call!

Clint, Your thoughts on header wrap are correct. It's my understanding that the use of header wrap or the ceramic coated headers is to prevent temperature loss in the exhaust gases. Basically, hot gases flow faster than cooler gases, given the same flow path. Just my two cents worth. What a great post....one of the best in a while.

Bill, Sorry to hear about the passing of your father. Hang tough partner!

Nismo280zED, placement of the tweeters and mids are certainly a problem in a Z. The only solution I can think of is to fabricate custom door panels, to incorperate the placement of the tweeters and mids! I've seen this done on many of the custom tuner cars out there. Sounds like alot of labor to me. Me personally, I didn't even put a stereo in my Z because of all the issues involved...and besides, who has time to mess with a stereo when your grinning from ear to ear from the sound of that sweet L6. Well, that's just my preference anyway. Good luck on your project.

Forgot one item that Aaron mentioned......the effect of hearing sound that sounds like its coming from the center of your dash...it's refered to as stereo imagining. It's the result of a well balanced system...to be more specific, when the right channel output is identical (best case) to the left channel you will have good stereo imagining. Of course, there are many more variables to address regarding stereo imagining and to actually verify your output signals, requires some fairly exspensive gear. OK, I'll shut up now!

Jake, nice reply to the question at hand! I had no idea the Subaru PS pack looked so much like the original Datsun rack, with the exception the the PS part. Damn, that appears to be a pretty simple conversion!

Definitely a nice promo video! It's always interesting how marketing adds in the sexual twist......young lady softly stroking the shift knob and steering wheel!!! Wouldn't it just be the coolest to own an original 432R? Oh yah! Nice post there clint78z.

Brian510, Dave at Rebello is a good guy isn't he? He's always been helpful and a straight shooter with me. Boy, that's one healthy L6 you've got. Very impressive at the least. 7.5 lbs per HP is damn good! I'm going to take a quess on your RWHP.....between 275 RWHP and 285 RWHP.........just quessing!!! Boy, I can already hear your back tires crying for mercy.

Regarding your question about harnesses....have you checked out the various harness manufactures and their websites (not the retailer's websites)? Most will have all the answers you are looking for. Basically, the best angle for your shoulder harness is 90 degrees to the seat back's vertical angle...typically straight back or parrallel to the ground. If, for example, you mounted the shoulder harness to the floor board, directly behind the seat, this would be the worst case senerio, causing unwanted down force on your shoulders under braking and especially during a front impact. Search and you shall find!!!

This has been discussed many times on this site.....I recommend you do some searchs for additional info. You have to ask yourself what you intend to do with your Z, first off......auto-X, road course, drag race, street car or whatever. Some inserts are designed for particular applications as well as some can handle more abuse under extreme loads (high spring rates and road racing). You also have adjustable shock and ones without adjustment. But, if you want coilovers so you can run wider wheels on your Z and have the ability to adjust your ride hieght easily and intend to use your Z mostly for the street.....then even the non-adjustable Tokico's will work well. I've read that the non-adjustable Tokico shock will not handle the higher rate springs reliably. I have GC coilovers on my 240Z with 200 lbs springs on the front and 275 lbs springs on the rear, with these Tokico inserts, and have had zero problems for 3 years now. However, I mostly drive my Z on weekends but it sometimes becomes a bit spirited if you know what I mean. Anyway, as you can see there are so many variable to consider, far more than I have mentioned. Just don't get discouraged!

Let's look at it this way, if you will, and hopefully agree that......stupid laws are created by STUPID people!!! Remember this the next time we all go to vote! Let's be rational for a moment.....one cannot expect idiots to think logically or expect them to have the capability to think at all, for that matter! I'll stop right here...thank you.

Interesting post John! Are these claims not just another case of finger-pointers' flaring up? The typical....sensationalism based on reaction to a situation based on ZERO factual information. Sad, but isn't this the credo of the news media and their supporters now days. I should bite my tongue here, but.......sheep will follow just about any sheppard!