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Dave, if I remember correctly the turbo cars came with a slightly larger clutch surface area as opposed to the NA cars. However, it seems very logical that you could use either of the fly wheels you have along with a high quality clutch assy. I personally prefer a lightened flywheel for a quicker spin-up in RPM.

Come to think of it...I can't remember...I'm sure you all understand! Wow, am I a bit foggy today.

Man, I had to chuckle when I looked at those welds! If this would have been on the other site, we would have seen comments like......Nice job, wish I could weld like that, keep up the good work, etc., etc. You just gotta love HYBRIDZ!!!

Man, this is story is truely full of sh _t.....I mean wine!

I have to agree with these guys...don't go there! You know that old saying....."If it sounds too good to be true, then it probably is!!!" Shoot, during my research into LSD carriers, the least expensive unit I could find that was a real performance part was around $500.00 (US). Be aware there are various setups avilable for a LSD. Some more suited for track use while others are more suited for off-road use. Do some research before you purchase. Once you find the one to suit your needs and get it installed....your going to love it. Of course you will have to get used to the new noises that eminate from it. As my new LSD got more use, it became quieter.

Shoot! I'd be happy with that output reading...considering your setup.

There should be a small flat slightly raised bossed area, on the passenger side front, right near the top of the block. Clean off the old paint! Look for something like....N42, E31, ect., etc.

John, I think the Euro's just miss Hitler, deep down inside. Let's face it, he was a strong leader...just a bit F'd up in the mind however! As we all know, history repeats inself.....I guess at some point we'll just have to kick their butts once again......because, as the Euro's think, we ARE the big bad evil wolf of the world. Not much has changed over time in history, and somebody always presides on top of the world heap! I'm just glad to be part of that somebody on top of the world heap. Like I always say....run a patch or two down those barrles every once and a while and keep a good supply of ammo at hand!!! God will sort it all out at some point in time. Do you think HE enjoys watch the world go around in the same manner as people do watching the likes of the latest string of bickering and whining TV shows we now have to view?

cyrus, I just looked at your personal profile......your a mechanical engineer! Come on, you should be able to figure this one out! Besides, think of the good experience you will aquire. Did you get my PM? Also, I believe 1tuffZ had his wheels custom made by Compumotive and are actually 8.5"wide....at least thats what he just posted over at CLASSIC ZCAR CLUB.

Wow, this is some interesting reading for sure! Here's a scary thought to ponder....Imagine if you will, Hillary Clinton as President of the USA and Bill Clinton as the secretary of operations for the U.N. !!!! This would be America's worst nightmare! If you think this is a joke, think again, this effort is in the pot and cooking! Let's all remember we are AMERICANS and remember to never let such a catastrophy happen.

Cameron, I have to agree with the other guys posting.....get it redone by a shop that has better judgment making capabilities. It sounds like the shop you mentioned knows how to insure they will have return business (as in a failed bottom end).....at least for the uninformed.

On flat terrain, a person in pretty good condition might average 15mph. To put it in perspective....the pros can average over 30 mph without 100% effort. You definitely got to watch out for stuff in the road way...so you won't get a flat. It's not for the meek at heart.....it's actual sweating type work but the rewards are worth it. I prefer riding in the dirt, however I do both.

If I'm not mistaken, they will pull out of the differential with a little jerk action. There is a circlip that retains the splined end in the differential. Basically, they pop in and pop out with little effort. If I'm incorrect on this, someone please jump in!

I'll probably get chastized for the following statement, but why not buy a decent road bike....as in bicycle, and commute back and forth to work that way. Think of the bennifits.....low cost, low maintainace, it will get you into physical shape, no lines to weight in, etc., etc. If you don't live more than 30 miles from work, it could be the answer you're looking for. Plus, think of the improved performance you would gain from cycling while doing THE deed in bed with your our half...if you know what I mean!

On my 1970 240Z.....regarding the rear tire/wheel setup. I have Ground Control coil-overs with 8" free length springs (as appossed to 10" springs) on struts that have been shortened 1.5". My rear wheels are 17 x 9 with 35mm offset and 235-40 x 17'' Yokohamas. I very carefully calculated the width of my spacers in order to center wheel without rubbing problems. My car sits pretty low and I have approximately 0.125" clearance between the wheel and the strut tube. My spacers are approx 7/8" wide. 17 x 9 wheels will work, but you may have to do some thinking and measuring ahead of time. Mind you, if I went to 245-40 x 17" tires in the rear, I believe I would have a rub problem. Hope this helps some.

I would be interested in the 71 front crossmember, if it's straight.

Well, since I have no wife or kids, I quess my significant other is my 240Z! I bought my significant other a new rearend....an R200 with 4.10 gears and a LSD. The significant other loves it and so do I!

Well, miss Simon is entitled to her opinion, but that doesn't mean she has a clue about the problem. It's the same old story.....people get all worked up and think that outlawing handguns will make the problem go away......WRONG!!! Unfortunetly, the crooks will have no problem if this passes.....then they will be able to rob the citizens of SF without the fear of getting shot! Boy, now that makes alot of sense doen't it. Yes, only for the crooks anyway. If this dumb b_ _ ch (Mrs. Simon) would just do a little research on the statistics, she would discover that the cities with the most gun control have the highest crime rates.....duuuhhhhh! My version of gun control is.....when you can place three consecutive rounds in the same spot on the target. Now that's gun control. Oh, the ignorance these types exhibit! It a wonder they can successfully wipe their own asses!!? Join the NRA today.....help save our Constitutional Rights for our children and the future. Just remember what Hitler did back in the late 1930's and early 40's.....he took away weapons from Germany's neigboring countries under the blanket of....you won't need them, we'll protect you....then he invaded them. We all know how that episode turned out!

I've also have done the electric fan upgrade. I have the thermostaticly controlled switch as well, but the fan only comes on if I have to sit in traffic an extended amount of time or when I get back from a drive, turn off the engine, and in a minute or two the fan will come on for a short while. I live in SoCal, so it's not always the coolest (temperature wise) of places. It used to be of concern at first, but the temperature never gets hot and has been working reliably for over 3 years now.

I also did the 300ZX rotor/ 280ZX caliper front upgrade on my 1970. I had to have the rotors turned down to 10.55" diameter, to have proper clearance under the caliper. I'm using AXXIS Metal Master pads with S.S. brake lines. Would I call this an upgrade? Absolutely! Think about it....the 280ZX brake system was designed for a car that wieghs about 2850 lbs, uses standard pads and rubber lines. Now install this set-up on a 2300 lbs. car with the better pads and lines and you have a brake system that will woe-down your early Z way better that you might imagine. As Terry says in his write-up....these are great for a street driven car. I agree 100%!!! As for the rear, I used the 280ZXT rear calipers/ 280Z rotors. I forgot to mention....my rotors are all slotted. One detail I did on my front struts, that was not mentioned in the upgrade write-up, was....on the cast ears (on the strut)that the caliper mounts to I machined the sides, opposite the stock caliper mounting surface flat, so the spacers needed to center the caliper over the rotors would sit square. ( the 280ZX calipers require mounting to the opposite side of the cast ears that the stock calipers mount to).

My 3/70 has the 2400 OHC cam cover as well! It's definitely a good disguise for my L28. Are these cam covers becoming scarce as hen's teeth or what?

Well, if your engine is truely IN tune, including new fuel filters and fresh gas without water in it.....PERTRONICS has an electronic ignition assembly that installs directly into your stock distributor. With this upgrade and a good set of plugs and wires, you should experience reliable and easy starting (even in cold weather) and likely a little better performance on the top end. If I remember correctly this upgrade is under $100.00 Like most everyone on this site will tell you.....do your homework and research the subject and available options. This is exactly how alot of us learn new stuff. Hope this help you some!

The interesting thing about lock sets is that most people have no clue about them. Spraying of any wet type lube (lube that stays wet) into a lock set is a no no! Sure, the lock will work better for the short term...but as previously mentioned it will collect dust and debris and ultimately turn into a grinding compond. So, if you have a lock set that has never seen a wet lubricant, the best advise is to use a dry graphite. Don't spray it into the lock, apply it to the key blade and then work the key in and out of the lock numerous times. If this is done on a regular basis (once every 6 months) you are likely to experience trouble free operation. Oh, by the way, don't forget to wipe off the excess graphite from the key blade as it's not too friendly to your closes. The above described method of lock set lubrication was MEDECO's (high end lock sets) prefered method of lock set lubrication. Of course they have revised this method since then. It must also be noted that the revision came about in a time frame when their sales were falling off drasticly. Now they recommend using a cutting oil as lubricant.....go figure!!? Maybe they think this will promote early failure of their lock sets, so the customer will have to purchase new lock sets more often. Anyway, use dry graphite.....it's the best stuff to use and is the prefered method of lock set lubrication by a vast majority of professional lock smiths (at least ones with years of experience).

big-phil, I'm no expert on EFI systems but there are some basic rules that apply to all internal combustion engines. Regarding your question...fuel/air ratios and the amount of it being sucked into the engine. A stock system is designed to operate well in many conditions and meet emission standards and it's controlled by a limited computer. Also, I don't know what size TB your stock unit is but I don't think its anywhere near 60mm. But by simply adding on a large TB, with out addressing anything else, your asking for ill performance. If you intend to inlarge the intake side of the engine, you should likewise inlarge the exhaust side as well. There's more to it than that, but that's the basic idea. Sounds like some reading about overall engine design, operation, and modification are needed. Acquiring this knowledge now will save you $$$ later and you will be able to deside what you want and need to do. Hope this help you some?

Let's see....power steering. Isn't that when you are heavy on the throttle, inducing an oversteer situation? Just kidding. What do you intend to install the power steering on??? Likely a Z, but knowing the year/model might help.