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I believe your idea is good for descriptive purposes however, the real difference is that gases are compressible and the liquids are not. Theres alot more to designing an effective exhaust system than most people think, but your thoughts about turbulance (restrictions) is correct.

If the pan you have is like the aluminum racing pan sold by Motorsport Auto (P/N 10-2466), then it is intended to hold just 7 quarts. Check out MSA's website.

Can't think of a reason why not! You should be fine. Just be sure to clean out the threads in the block and the threads on the head bolts themselves so you will be able to obtain the correct torque upon reassembly...this is a standard practice. Once they've been cleaned well, apply a very light film of oil on the head bolt threads, just prior to assembly.

Just a little info to share with you all about gasoline and the different octane ratings. I received this information from a fellow named Jim Fueling (don't laugh) who was the engine wizard behind the successful Nissan IMPSA effort back when. Anyway, according to Jim gasoline has X amount of BTU capacity and infact regular gasoline has the highest BTU capacity! Here's where it gets interesting. It has to do with controlling the ignition of the fuel/air mixture. We all know the a higher compression engine generally makes more HP. Thats why we have turbos and supercharges as well. So inorder to keep the fuel/air mix from lighting off before the desired time, anti-knock (lead and what ever they use now) additives are added to prevent the unwanted detenation. Hence we have the higher octane rating intended for the higher output engine. Of course this was more applicable back in the 60's and 70's when engines were less efficient than they are now. Better combustion chamber designs, better ignition systems, and better induction systems have made engines more efficient now days and do have an effect at better controlling detenation. So, again according to Jim, theretically speaking...if an engine could be made that was 100% efficient you would not need the anti-knock additives. Is this making any sences to anyone?

Tpysport, just for clarity purposes.....The stock L6 engines did not come stock with studs but instead used cylinder head bolts. Regarding the reuse of them.....I would say you will have no issues unless you plan to do modifications that will greatly increase combustion chamber pressures, ie; going to a turbo setup with high boost or very high compression with NA induction. Certainly, in any case, use a really good head gasket. Just my thoughts!

Thank you all for your helpful replies.......this information definitely reduces the learning curve for me. Tom

How about this one......."My Z won't run, what should I do?"

Come on guys....PLEASE!!! I would sure like to get a little feedback form someone whos been down this road! Ok, I think I'm goin to cry.

Tony, I was just pulling your chain for a rise out of you! By the way, if by chance you have gotten the screw out, try running a bottom tap down the hole to unbugger the threads. If by chance the threaded hole in not a blind thread (no access from the bottom of the hole) you might try screwing the screw in from the bottom up...which may straighten out the x-threading.

Hey, I'll bet all the top racers are standing in line waiting to get a set.....sure!!!! As was said......another bling bling WOOOOOOOO thing.

Welcome! USE THE SEARCH FUNCTION...rule #1. Also, think beyond just your differential, regarding strength. Like....stub axles and drive axles! You will be amazed at the wealth of info on this site...."search and you shall find".

Maybe 150HP at the flywheel! I had to laugh while reading GrayZee's comment.

Ok guys, I've been doing my homework on what fits what and who makes the adaptor flanges, etc., etc.. My question is in regards to clearance between a rear mounted 19mm (3/4") anti-rollbar (on a 240Z) and the 300ZXT CV axles or 280ZXT CV axles...which axle provides the better clearance. During my research I ran across someone that mentioned possible clearance problems with the 280ZXT axles. Also, it looks to me as though there is a greater distance between the CV joints on the 300ZXT axles than on the 280ZXT axles. My Z sits pretty low so the angle on my drive axles are less than desirable....up at the stub axle end. This is one of the reasons I want to go with the CV's since by design a CV joint is happier at angles greater than, say 4 degrees or more. Anyone want to enlighten me, who has gone through this execise. I tend to want to go with the 300ZXT CV axles.

I have to agee on the front calipers being the same and somehow I think Mike was likely thinking about the rear calipers, which as you stated, have an early and a later version. When I did my conversion I looked at both and thought to myself...gawd, there's no way I would install a set of the early rear calipers on my Z, they look like some cheap stamped out parts. Also, I believe the later model rear calipers from a ZX are the same units that are from the 240SX cars...at least they look identical! Just my $0.02 worth

zredbaron, I believe you are correct. I think it was the 1980 models that had the oddball, used one year, 5 speed. And as you probably know already, the later model 5 speeds, like yours are a closer ratio than the pre 1980 5 speeds.

I'm running a 2800cc L6 (N42 with SU"s & headers) and the engine internally is stock (probably 8.3 to 8.5 compression ratio). My ignition setup is as follows...MSD Blaster coil, Mallory Unilite distributor (w/vac adv), Magnacore KV85 wires, and the ubiquitous NGK plugs (gapped at .040"). The thing runs like a top...from idle to max RPM. OK, you may ask what max RPM is! I don't push the L6 past...say 5500 RPM...being a relatively stock engine, theres not much more beyond 5500 rpm anyway. Side note: I always laugh when I see MSA's price for the Mallory Unilite...around $600.00, WOW!!! You can buy the same Unilite from Summit Racing for about $375.00...much much better price!

You gotta be quick to "getter dun"

Vegasguy, Briefly speaking..... PRO's: I suspect the setup you posted pretty much isolates the engine bay from the heat coming off the radiator, hence keeping the engine bay temp down. Maybe some down force is acquired!?CON's: It's going to cost you to do this modification. And even more if you are not capable of doing the required fabrication work. Just my $0.02 worth! Looks pretty slick if you ask me...and it does look to be a similar setup to Terry's SBF Z.

Come on now, let's be honest...doen't MMA stand for Maximum Masterbation Assosiation??? That's what I thought! You guys in Washington sure know how to stay busy.

Uhhhh, OK!!?

Tom Tom Tom Tom.......these units are junk! The phantom grip has been discussed a number of times. Have you seen pictures of the unit......pretty whimpy looking devise if you ask me!

Is that the one that has the threaded lower section, in addition to the normal collar adjustment for the spring. Great idea...get the piston to insert adjusted for proper travel and then be able to adjust your ride height without effecting the piston to insert relation....outstanding design. A buddy of mine just put a set on all four corners of his STI. Damn, why didn't I think of that one?