Mikelly

I'd check the bulbs for sure... Mike

If I were to build rear control arms again (Been there, done that, don't ever want to contemplate the complexities again) I'd start with the OEM rear arm and build off it, and using the "poor" mans toe setup as Jon suggests. The Rear OEM arm is far more durable than it is given credit. Mike

Reading this old thread was a hoot... Who'da thought I'd end up with an awd 650HP Monster as a daily driver/weekend track terror??? Mike

I bought the hose from stockcarproducts.com in a size that matched the fuel cell 45degree neck and the custom filler neck welded into the B-pillar above the original access... check my pics on photobucket.com under username Mikelly_2006 Mike

No, Alex, I won't kill you, Just the thread... I made the mistake of having the speakers on HI and not quite quick enough to kill it... BASTARD!!! Mike

Well I've currently got the holley system commander setup on my motor with a cutler intake/1000CFM TB and 42# injectors. I also have the same system setup on Jim's car. We "may" pull them off and sell them for carb setups, or we "MAY" replace the computer setups with something else like FAST or other setups... Not sure again... I do have an Edlebrock FI intake new in the box with the injector bungs already inplace. This is a perfect DIY intake to build the rest of your system off of... I got it thru Jegs for about $380 and would let it go (New in the box/never installed) for5 $300 shipped. Mike

That's a tough call... I'm that entrepreneur that michael references in his note above... I also was that govi employee michael references in his note above... I'm also an employer who supplies workforce to the gov't. The gov't likes those pieces of paper, or equivolent experience. They really like a combo of the two. Whatever you do, you want to structure it such that you have health care, time off for sickness and mental health, and a career path that allows you to put money into a retirement account (Pre and post tax) so that you can afford to live reasonably comfortable long after you're done working. The person you are today will evolve in two decades into someone you do not recognize now. These "benefits" and "retirement plans" will mean more the older you get... But remember this: You will not be able to make up for the years you missed contributing to your own retirement plan. Mike

You got one hell of a deal there... I don't care what the DIYers will say, the body and paint is worth $6150. It's rather straightforward on the Swap. The tranny, the pedal assembly, master cylinder, slave cylinder, flywheel/clutch/PP and shifter... That pretty much does it. You might have to do something with the neutral safety switch. Mike

I'm with you, Tom... Screw SEMA! Mike

I always liked Norv Turner. I hated the way he was treated at Washington and am truly happy that he is doing well with SanDiego! Now if my COWBOYS can beat the giants tonight (Tied in the 2nd quarter) then it'll have been a great weekend for football. Mike

You can never have just one... Mike

Also, If you post something we think is inappropriate or "flaming", We're gonna delete your post. This isn't free speech. It's the internet. Dan Porter OWNS this site and can dictate as he will. If you want to get in a pissing contest with someone, take it offline. Do it in public forum and you will be banned for an unspecified period of time to be decided by the administrative staff. Mike

There's actually a review in another thread... Do a search on it... wasn't that long ago when I read it... Mike

I had a pair of those plates and sold them to someone on the board here... They're a bitch to install, but you'll like them... They're also noisy, but what the heck... Mike Mike

It really depends on the rotor manufacturer, but reality is they will "heatcheck" much quicker than a cheap solid rotor... Here's something else to consider... PADS eat ROTORS. In the corvette world all the track guys buy cheap NAPA rotors for $30 each, use aggressive Hawk/Carbotechs/Wilwoods/Whatever the sexy pad of the day is and they keep spairs on hand... Solid rotors crack too... It boils down to what the intended use of the vehicle is. I have two sets of pads for the porsche and swap them between events. The Pagid pads I use on track require 3 aggressive stops from above 80mph, followed by immediate "cool down" for their bedding process. For looks, crossdrilled rotors are a hit. For stopping purposes, they just don't seem to do well on anything other than race cars... Plan to check them often if you track with them... I do. Mike

Godspeed and keep safe... AND THANK YOU FOR YOUR SERVICE TO OUR COUNTRY, and providing a place for my family to exersise our rights to live in such a great country! Mike

Tony Tony Tony... Mike

One of two things... Ground. or Builbs need replaced. Mike

Both you guys better check the attitudes or you'll both get a time out of the temporary banning kind. Got it? I owned a 1990 Honda Civic HF and registered 47mpg for two years straight when the car was tuned properly, tires inflated to proper pressures and I was mindful of the gas pedal. I know a thing or three about this particular base model car, because I was stuck driving it for several years as a "second" car. Furthermore, my father, who is my personal hero, registered wel over 50MPG regularly in a Ford Festiva on a very frequent basis. Say what you want, but there are people out there who do what they can to get from point a to point b. They do what they can to stretch a buck and getting great fuel mileage is one of the many. You guys want to debate that, do it elsewhere... The source of discussion here did great things, and some of you are pissing on his design for the sake of what, style??? I believe the numbers could well have been recorded, but hey whatever... Mike

I'm probably not giving myself as much credit on my knowledge of EFI systems. Bottom line is I need to sort out the rest of the car first, and don't want to be stranded at the track with an efi related problem. The other "problems" I expect can be addresses simply. EFI is one that requires a fair bit more patience. I need to research the proper computer for this car, as I've got all the hardware/sensors and just need a good solid box. Not a fan of Megasquirt, so I'll be going with a system someone locally has expertize in, once I find that someone local (Or end up back at Jeff's shop in NC). Mike

By the cell... Mike

I'm with you John, I'll replace mine with an LS6 W/cam when I kill my 383stroker! Mike

Conrats Stony! That car is gonna scream! I shoulda bought that thing! Mike

Some explanations of the flags: Yellow flag is general used during the first lap of a day's sessions for each group. The yellow should be displayed at each flag station. Once a lap is completed, you should no longer see the flag. If you do, there is a problem at that location to be aware of and use caution. If you see a flagger furiously waving a yellow flag, his panic should give cause for you to pay attention and slow down. Something BAD has happened or is potentially going to happen...Don't be a part of it. The blue flag is my personal favorite. PAY ATTENTION to your mirrors. If you ignore a blue flag, you will get a black flag and you'll have a butt chewing waiting for you in the pits. The black flag can be used in a more subtle manor to get your attention without bringing you into the pits. If a corner worker shakes the rolled up flag at you, that means you've gotten his attention for something that's been reported on the radio. All corner workers have radios... they communicate with each other. Guess what? You have eyes on you reporting on your bad behavior, so be mindfull of that. When you see the checkered flag, it's time to cool off the car. You should put the car into 4th gear and reduce your speed to "highway" speeds or slower. Don't stop or drop your speed to a rediculously low pace, but don't ring out the RPMs or try to get your late braking points down either. You want to pull the car into the pits with the temps brought down to a more normal range before you shut the car off. Mike

I pulled this off the back of my PCA Log book. Most clubs will be the same: Green Flag - Track Clear/ Session Underway Yellow Flag - Problem Ahead - Use Caution/Slow Car/NO PASSING ALLOWED! Waving Yellow Flag - Problem in the Immediate Area/ Prepare to Go Off Line/ No PASSING Yellow with Red Stripes - Oil/Debris Flag on Track with potential slippery condition. This flag also gets used for animals ontrack. Here in our area we've had a rash of deer impacts on roadcourse at summit point raceway in WVa. Be mindful, as you do not want to strike any animals at the types of speeds we see at HPDEs. Blue With White Strip or Solid Blue - Passing Flag/ You're holding the car behind you up/ Let Cars pass at next passing Zone White Flag - Slow Moving Vehicle in your immediate area - Use Caution Black Flag - Pull safely into the pits/ Something is wrong with your car or your driving that needs attention/ Acknowledge Flagger and head to the pits. If Full Course Black Flag will display at each station. Session is ended due to an event or action on course that requires attention. Black Flag with Red or Orange Circle in the center - Something is mechanically wrong with your car - head to pits safely and offline. Red Flag - Session Stopped ON TRACK fo Emergency. Check your mirrors then pull off the racing line and stop safely in view of a flagging station. Wait for instructions from the flagger. Checker Flag - Session is complete, Cool down lap in session and head to pits. Mike