stony

http://members.tripod.com/SnowSurfer/mikekz1.html http://327-240z.freeservers.com/photo.html search for post from mike kz he has a 12 bolt in his and just a jegs ladder bar setup Im going with a ford 8.8 but mine is a full up backhalve

got any pics of the install? I figure the inlet and outlet will have to be cut down a little and then weld 90 degree bends to match it with the holes in teh core support from my old intercooler. may just need 90 degree bend and grommets.

Bar and plate design, IF You ask me the only reason intercoolers are expensive is because HKS, Gready, garret or spearco puts there stamp in them. they all get there cores from the same place and weld end tanks on them for the applicable kit. This intercooler should be good for 800hp range just as the add says. if he wanted the standard 700-1000 for an intercooler this size i would have passed but 265 is a deal.

there's one left http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33742&item=7963761680&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW I got mine for the buy it now @ 265!!!!

Sorry if this is kinda late but i just bought (havent recieved yet) a intercooler that seemed like a steal!!!!!! Measures 12X24X4 , it has endtanks on it that will require little or no mods to fit the Z and i got it for a grand total of 330 BUX US shipped to my door here in alaska. it popped up on ebay doing a search using datsun as the key word. i have pics but im at work now i will post them later. its a bar and plate design and should be good fro 800HP easy. Buy it now was 265 plus 60 bux to ship to AK via fed ex. you guys should check it out. i dont think you can beat a completely assembled intercooler of that size for 300 bux. but i dont have it yet so we will see

Anyone get one of these yet? it has an extra column in teh rpm map with AF ratio that it logs from a wideband. sounds like SDS is giving in to popular demand

Did you cut it for the outter or inner bolt pattern. the outter is for the gtr aluminum and teh inner is for the steal pan that everyone mods from the z31 rb20.

well just general chassis stuff like where to take measurements from and where to tie into stuff. My car has been in the shop since feb 04 and i was brought there pretty much stripped with the rear suspension removed. teh floor is cut out and some of teh cage is installed and its only taken a little over a year to get that done!!!!! I havent seen it in over a month becasue i have been out of town. im going over to look at it this weekend and if it hasnt had considerabnle progress im going to take it back and try and finish it myself. I'm hoping that atleast the rear suspension is in and it is progressing well but somehow i dont think thats going to be the case

Anyone have any good links or know of any good books that go indepth on how to build drag chassis? Im about done waiting on this guy to get my car done. Just gonna do it myself if i have to. I have allready been thru the alston how to section... im looking for something more in depth.

Any new pics?

I had to make custom ears for the r33 tranny the stock ones wont work

HAHA i got you all 1700 lbs !!!!!! BUT

Matt, I think i remember you telling me the blue S30 was getting or had a rb20 tranny in it right? The r33 gtst tranny is too wide and will not fit inbetween the ears... atleast for the Late model 260s. The 2 speed powerglide is another story also it dosnt fit without tunnel mods .

Not sure about your choice in cars for drifting but if your gonna do Auto X i would say go sr20, or something like that. I have seen the later modle Zs with the RB26 swap so it can be done. Not sure on the bolt on stuff though. And if you can't spend that much then stay away from the rb26. you need to much other chassis suspension and drivetrain mods to support it if your going to race it. I gave up on getting the stock drivetrain into the 10s and the best i could do was low 11s. car is getting a backhalve now

i shipped some stuff to japan priority and it made it there fast then other times it took 2 months. I was getting ready to refund money to a guy in austrailia for some gages i sent him THRU USPS and it took a little over 2 months to get there!!!!! you should get them. if you hit the 2 month mark id start to get alittle worried.

if it has a longer wheel base as you said i would guess it would need a longer shaft. I would say compare the stock 2 seater vs 4 seat drive shaft. if it is around a inch longer you could move the motor back to make the shaft work or make a longer driveshaft.

That is exactly how i did mine.

4 pages of results using teh search term 7mgte http://forums.hybridz.org/search.php?searchid=55160

I have seen this before and it dosnt have to be fresh water. i have seen ocean water when it is contuninously blown off the waves coat things like that... not near that bad but i have seen it before. But i agree prabably not rain or sleet but stuff being blown off the ocean or lake. Looks like the water comes right up to the wall... so the waves hit the wall slash water in the air and then as it hits the ground or whatever is on the ground it freezes.... if its cold enough.

After 6 months of my car sitting on axle stands while I very slowly rebuild the suspension I should soon be ready to fit the engine but I've got 2 questions I would like opinions on before I start this from people who have already transplanted RB's into there zed's. 1, The guy who prepared my engine strongly recommended having the sump enlarged as he said the 200ZR sump had too small an oil capacity for the engine. Has anybody else enlarged there sump's or are they running with stock sized 200ZR sumps ok. Mine has been ok for 4 years now it holds 4.75 qts just like the stock rb25. I dont think the stock gtr sump holds much more 2, What's the best way to install the engine and gearbox. Engine first then fit the gearbox from underneath. Or fit the box and engine together. Install together... its much easier to figure out where all the mounts need to go if you still have to weld anything. hood is rmoved and the z engine bay is long enough to accomodate installing motor and tranny connected together. Thanks in advance.

Sorry to bother you mate, but i just wanted some clarification - im looking at putting an RB25DET or RB25DE into my Zed and just wanted to pick your brain a bit Just wanna be certain about getting the engine/box/tailshaft in place, I live in Australia and have a right-hand Drive 260z, but you said that it doesn’t matter for LH or RH, its the same pretty much Engine Mounts & Sump Position: Get engine mounts from Jap Spec Z31 which ran the RB20DET, BUT..........the Z31 mounts are not in the best location for the RB25 in a 70-78 Zed, which means for optimal handling you should custom up some mounts to sit the engine back and lower?If you ask me i think a 51 49 front to rear weight distribution can be compensated with suspension setup and that’s where mine was with the Z31 mounts. Dont suppose you have any pics of your engine mounts? Not at this time Get sump & pickup from Jap Spec Z31 RB20DET and swap this over onto my RB25 (which is a straight swap, no mods needed) therefore the engine sump is rear mounted and dosent hit the crossmember? Yes this is a straight up bolt on mod. The sump and pan will not interfere with the frame. I had an rb25 sitting in my car until i found out it was bad. the rb26 needs some messaging of the oil pan and custom sum for it to work with the z31 pan. it has 2 bolt patterns in the bottom of the block to accommodate the gtr pan and the rb25 steel pan. Gearbox Crossmember: Use the Box from the GTS-T R33 Skyline, but you have to make up your own gearbox-crossmember, Yes this is actually really easy. Because.............the original L-Series wont mate with the new GTS-T gearbox and the new GTS-T gearbox crossmember won’t bolt straight up to the old gearbox body mounts on the Zed, So gotta do some fabrication to get em to fit? Yes i cut out the car part of teh tranny mounts and fabbed up some ears and welded it back in the same spot and sued the stock r33 tranny mounts Do you have any pics of this? NO Tailshaft: If you use the Z31 mounts you can use the original tailshaft, no mods required, is this correct? Yes with an r-200 diff. you will need to swap out the part the driveshaft bolts up it on the diff to the one that comes with the r-200 diff in the r33 skyline. it wont bolt up to the flange on the z r-200. But if you use custom mounts and sit the engine lower and closer to the firewall you will need to shorten the tailshaft? Yes I know it must suck after a while answering all these questions, but i just wanted to make certain mate No problem its all getting kind fuzzy it was almost 4 years

joel What turbos are those.. I know you ahve answered this somewhere but i couldbt find it.

thats cool :>