stony

can you email me a pic of the setup your talking about. im not really sure what your talking about

i have z31 lsd diff, cv axles ,stub shafts and rear calipers z31 front rotors and spindles with z32 calipers in my 74 260z . Its starting to become kind of a frankenstien car

Brad, havent heard back from you on the sump i asked you about.... will you be able to get it made? I wanted just like yours with the same conector setup except with -8an fittings thank

I need some ideas on this..... when i modded the struts for the z31 lower half i used the z31 sterring knuckle. unfortunatly this made my tie rod ends too short .. by about 3 inches on both sides. Heres what im thinking. 1st option... research and find a stock type tie rod that is long enough to work with the stock rack <img border="0" alt="[eek2]" title="" src="graemlins/eek2.gif" /> option number 2... build a custom setup with spherical rod ends.... this option sounds shaky to me for a daily driver. <img border="0" alt="[shifty]" title="" src="graemlins/shifty.gif" /> option 3... cut reverse and reweld the steering knuckles so the stock tie rods will fit. my concerns here are strength... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="confused.gif" /> Im not too sure this will be safe, will it break? can it be done with a normal mig or does it need to be a special type welder. <img border="0" alt="[ugg]" title="" src="graemlins/ugg.gif" /> thanks in advance <img border="0" alt="[rockon]" title="" src="graemlins/rockon.gif" />

well im thinking its alot easier to figure the angle and make one cut versus about 30 minutes per joint with a grinder

i went with the z31 stubs but had to do custom machining and custom bearings also going to have custom length shafts made. just remember if you dont allready have an r200 installed you will need the mustache bar from teh 280z that had the peg leg r-200. the r-180 bar is different.

here are the latest pics Im about 50% done still have to do the X bar in the rear the diagonal in the main hoop and the door bars. Anybody ever buy a tubing notcher like on ebay or similar? just curious how they work. Sure would make this thing easier if it worked good ;>

ok thats what i thought i just didnt see the 37 ;>

Well i searched for it for a while. anyone know the formula for figuring the rearend ratio of this gear set? im being told its a 4.56

well sounds like the NA and TUrbo shafts are about the same length unaltered. the turbo shafts were about 3/4 shorter total on both sides with the reversed CVs. I guess reversing the inner cv made a difference. i guess its off to the axle shop i go. Looks like a set of chromoly center bars are in order. Should make the whole setup that much stronger. I figure the next weak link will be the CV itself or the diff. thanks for the help Ross. I think i asked you this but any ideas on the z31 rotor and caliper swap? I think all i need to do is make brackets for it. emergency brake is gonna tricky though ;<

heres some more

Im working on a complete z31 turbo mod so it will work on the 240/260 rear struts. so far have the stub shaft installed in the strut housing. If the NA shafts are shorter then the shafts will fit ( i hope) if not im going to have a custom length made. then its on to the brakes. they to are z31 rotors and calipers. heres a brief writeup on what i did

wow thats big sorry bout that

Brad exactly like yours except with -8an fitting

exactly like this would you add anything to this thanks cuong

yes in japan .... unfortunately im in alaska. no gnose here

wow this is alot of work now i know why welders want so much money to do stuff like this. anyways i have the halo main hoop and forward bars all welded in. Now i just have to figure out how im going to brace the rear of the car. the smaller diameter tubing i received from alstons is for running from the main hoop across to the trans tunnel. Im thinking im going to run an X from the top of the main hoop to the struts then a diagaonla from the top of one strut housing to the bottem of the other. Also going to run a diagonal from just right of the drivers head down to below the passenger seaton the main hoop. any suggestions on my ideas?

im using the r33 rb25 5 speed. the gtr tranny is a monster and the transfer case is on the side of it making it almost impossible to get it under the car. Look on the second page of this section for "so you wanna do a rb swap" it has all the specifics. There ia also alot of other info contributed from others. If you search for rb swap rb26 ect ect should get lots of info on parts and methods good luck

thanks mike, one question for you or anyone. i bought the alston cage...in the kit i recieved there are 2 tubes that are smaller in diameter then all the others? are these the tubes that come down from the main hoop to the back of the car? or are they the side bars?

sure if you can make it to my house in alaska by noon monday you can have it. HAHAHAHA everything has a price tag though 19K is mine right now once i get the 10 sec slip it goes up

here are some pics from last nights progress

yes it is gutted dash held in with one bolt for test fitting purposes. it took so long to get the cage becasue i was preoccupied with getting a 10 sec slip which never happend but WILL this year plus i was trying to find a way to get a cage here to alaska without paying 400+ dollars for shipping

NOPE for real?

here are some from 2 years ago 444cc injectors and stock booste11.32 11.50 11.51 11.67 11,86

here are some vids of the last time at the track this year. 11.2 125mph both of these were 1.9 and a 2.1 60 foot. with the cv mod done and a good launch ya think itll be a 10 sec car?