stony

im just pondering what i would do if i blew it up .. rebuild $$$$ or swap a different motor in. Sr20 caught my eye also. then again a good bullet proof 700 HP RB26 wouldbe nice ;> there is no way i would pull just for kicks. once (if) i get my 10 sec slip then its time for turbos and a headgasket and shoot for the nines

all skyline rb motors are front sump motors they all need the oil pan and pickup from the zr200. the only motor that is a direct bolt in would be the zr200 rb20. when i say bolt in i mean the right combo of engine mounts and the oil pan dosnt need to be changed. the cheapest rb26 i have seen was from a member on here some time back. 2500 fro motor and tranny ... but i think it was a hoax, i referred his ad to a friend that has a shop and wants to build a race car. my friend said he would buy if this individual could bring the motor toa shop not far from his home. he said that was inconvient and to just send a check and he would ship it out. next he said a friend would come to his house , inspect the motor give him money and pickup the engine. This to for some reason was inconvienent. he said again just send the check and ill ship it to you????? sounded fishy to me anyone else agree. anyway 3500 sounds like a pretty good deal.

im thinking selling teh rb and going rotary ;>

a stock rotary is very dependable if you take care of it. It is a higher maintenance motor then others. It is also a good motor to modify but like you said owen it has to be built to exact specs. More importantly you really have to have the tools to tune it. egt a/f ratios are very important in a rotary. if you get lean and detonate 9 times out of 10 the motor is done and will need new apex seals. If the apex seal breaks off a big enough chunk it will mor then likely damage something on the way out. turbine wheels dont like metal chunks if you are going to modify a rotary here are some suggestions. go with a mild port that will make it breath better. go with bigger primary and secondary injectors instead of sub inj controller. and slap the bigest turbo you can fit on it. it seems like rotaries like big turbos. and again tune it on a dyno and make sure y0our margin for error ( a/f ratio) is thick. my 2$

heres what i did. i took the z31300z stub shafts and modded the struts with the correct bearing to accept the stubs. i was gonna try and get a custom set of stub shaft flnages made for the inner side but the machinist up here in alaska wanted 500 bucks a pop. so i decided to go with custom length axles (400 for set) . if you could have these inner pieces custom made you could use teh stock z31 axles withough modding them and have a pretty strong setup. Lets go one step further.... z32 rear end could be done the same way i believe and that would be even a stronger setup. one step further would be the gtr rear rearend axles. Ive seen alot of 800HP gtrs hammering those rears and nothing ever breaks. all this and still retain teh IRS rear

i guess it was me... any questions feel free to Fire at will. since then there has been a couple other rb swaps in the us, canada, and Austailia. If i dont answer im sure someone will ;>

ok can you say monkey boy

maybe kinda simple but where is you sds sensor mounted and where is the gage vacuum hose plumbed into? if they are not in the same place they will not be the same. if you have any different size piping this will affect reading from the turbo to the intake manifold ect ect for example if you have you booste gage connected on the turbo side of an intercooler or restriction you will see higher levels there then if you were plumbed in right at the intake manifold. there is a term something about effeciency but i cant remember the exact word someone will chime in ;>

tearing apart is alot different then putting together. i to have watcged teh tear down and reassebling of parts. the most time consuming part is teh cleaning. you have to ensure everything is spotless or youll pay the price. I even have the fomula for parts. heres what i did on mine. i took a blown 89 T2 motor torn it down .. threw away the rotors and rotor housings bought new FD rotors and rotor housings had a pro shop assemble. wioth stock booste and to4e motor prduced 350whp!!!!. it lasted till i sold it (2 years) and a kid wrapped it around a tree ;< I say do it. should be an easy swap and should work well ;>

much bigger ujoints i might add. if we could mod our shafts to accept bigger ujoint like that we would have no problems ;>

ok yes means he is a punk ass kid and no is the shop owner is out of line ;> i guess i should have proof read that ;>

http://www.alaskamotorsports.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=3287

Basically here’s what I did. I got a set of z31 struts and cut them just above the bracket that holds the brake line. Then I measured the s30 struts that I have converted to coilovers. I measured the z31 struts and determined how much to cut off the top of the s30 coilovers. I clamped them together in angle iron to keep them straight and welded the top half of the s30 struts to the bottem of the z31 struts. Here’s what I’m not sure on for other cars. I have tubular a arms and not sure if they have the same ball joints as other z's but they probably do. They are slightly smaller then the z31 ball joints so I had to use a couple of washers to pull the ball joint up further into the hole. This worked fine with no binding. Second obstacle was the tie rod thing that as soon as I figure out the damn length they need to be ill be ok just have to mod the rack to the right length like I described above. With the z31 bottom halves in place the z32 calipers bolt right up using the z31 rotor. The z31 rotors are the same size as the z32 but the z32 rotors are thinker with bigger vents but have a different offset and can’t be used in this application without being modded. Another thing for people to consider is these struts have more positive caster then the stock s30 struts but i should be able to adjust this out with the custom aarms

i allready kinda did in other threads ill see i can link to them

DAMNIT i thought it was complete.... seems i measured wrong. Still have a bit of toe in and no more adjustment im gonna take the rack back out and see if my welding can hook me up with another 1.5 inches on both side for free

both sides of the 300z z31 shafts are the ball and cage type.

Ok lets try this again... Im done with the front end z31 conversion. size comparison between the s30 stock brakes and the z31 stock brakes z31 strut cut ready to cut s30 strut extention on rack to fit the z31 spindle struts welded up ready to go the caster was a little mor positive then the stock s30 struts but i should be ablt to adjust it negative with arizona z car a-rms i have installed ;>

Im not to sure this is true. if your talking the axles them selves maybe true but when your talking cv joints and ujoints i think the cvs are better. Only when you talking about the z ujoints and all the aftermarket and stock replacement stuff on the market. cvs are made of some kind of hardened steel where all the ujoints i broke looked like they were made out of some kind of pot metal.

im hoping my setup will work for that. i modded my rear struts to accept z31 stub shafts and had custom length chomoly shafts made. the r-200 lsd should hold it also but we will see.

i think it is available. I got it from another link i cant find right now but here is the link i used to get the picture here should be able to mod it to get to the web page http://www.westcoastforums.com/albums/album01/1_G.sized.jpg

have you seen his nose?

i went with a smaller tire which would about the same as going from a 3.90 to a 4.11. i gained horsepower on the dyno, MPH and et at the track. i would assume going down in gearing would do the opposite ... unless of course your allready to hi in gearing then it would do nothing but help