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stony

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Everything posted by stony

  1. Anyone know if the phuzion series gaskets are available for the RB motors yet? Those sound pretty kickass.
  2. I made 433 FTLBS torque with 598 RWHp after 6 runs on the dyno, thru a powerglide with an rb26
  3. http://www.cometic.com/sportcompact.aspx
  4. I searched around and found alot of references to the HG that Cometic makes but found no real experience with them. I need a HG and Cometic is alot cheaper then HKS or Tomei. Anyone out there use one in there rb26 in HIGH HP application? Is it worth the cheaper price ir should i just stick with the Almost 400 dollar HKS version.
  5. Only note worthy nrecommendation in my opinion!!!!
  6. OK thats it someone needs to do a writeup on how to install a dash. I LOVE that 240sx???? dash. Now that i have a drag car to play with i want to take my time on teh red car and actually build it into a radical street/DRAG car with full interior and A/C
  7. Not sure on the spring rate on the blow off. BUT i did take it apart and check everything over to make sure there were no imperfections in the mating surfaces and all the internal diaphragms where in place
  8. Since the orignal 432 and gtr motors are hard to find and very expensive alot of the japanese are going that way for the looks.
  9. Hey guys, Clyde has been around for a long time and is on okinawa. He has a badass rb26 swap check out his album in his signature. He is on okinawa and MATT formally Cheftrd on this forum did a lot of work on his car as he did on mine before mine went under the knife Welcome clyde http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=16820
  10. stony

    rb26Z

  11. stony

    RB26DETT_R33_49

    From the album: rb26Z

  12. This was what i had for a map before it hit the dyno. should get anyone real close for a NA setup on a rb26 if you use teh rpm fuel map.
  13. stony

    444

    From the album: rb26Z

  14. I found my excel sheet from when i had SDS if anyone wants a copy let me know.
  15. New unused HG. 1.2 MM 88mm hks drag is my choice but anyone have one that will work then need to get rid of.
  16. Another thing that kind of sux is im using the ATI rb to glide adapter and guess what only the ATI converter works with it. I guess now that I have a converter that fits I could send it to someone like art car or Neil chance and have another built using it as an example but oh well life is what it is
  17. The fact is.... you as a human being will never be able to shift as fast with your arm as an auto can shift.
  18. Scottie I understand 100% The only reason I was looking for a power loss figure is to know when I’m getting near my goal HP at the crank. I wanted to stay under a certain HP number for reliability sake. And if a glide takes another 100 HP to turn it vs. a manual I need to take that into consideration. Oh yea BTW what the hell is up with ATI and there v-8 on the brain mentality. They would not build a converter to my request but did say they would restall it for free if it was wrong. So I got a converter with a 4000 stall ( iwill not be using NOS). My dyno chart shows very clearly where my peak torque is at yet they won’t restall till I get numbers from the track. The combo I have is a very common one and well I should have gotten a 6K stall to begin with… on a positive note it is making tuning a lot easier:>
  19. Shoot me your email in pm and i will email you an excel sheet from my SDS setup back in the day
  20. Ok here are some REAL numbers!!!! First off let me start by saying Im not against buying american and im not trying to finance the communists BUT........ The cheapo ebay intercooler that i was assured would not make more then 450 HP and would explode with more then 15 PSI made 600+ @ 22 PSI and kept the inlet air temp at 85F!!!! the Tial knockoff worked like a champ and didnt leak a bit. and the SSAC 60mm wastegate held 14.8 with the adjustment screw all the way out... i mean literally ... it fell out. Once i reinstalled and adjusted it in it held 22 PSI rock solid. Not saying go out and buy this stuff but if your on a budget... well you can save some money in this area. Also remember quality control sux and just because i had good luck dosnt mean you will. take everything apart and inspect it before use.
  21. I was just using the HP numbers as an example. My motor will literally last forever... well as forever as race engine go :> in the 600-650 range. But get into the 750-800 range and it gets pretty dicey. My goal was 600-650 if i got more i would be happy. So with your estimation of 25% that's a 150 HP loss. My motor is putting out 750 at the crank already and we only ran maybe 7 runs across the dyno. With that said anyone that has tuned a HI end FI motor with an aftermarket EMS will know that 7 runs gets a very rough tune. oh yea the motor is still basically still in its "breakin period":roll: I'm guessing we will see 650 at the wheels at 22PSI with just fine tuning the fuel and getting aggressive with the timing. my max timing right now is 24 degrees!!! I know I'm digressing a bit but i just cant believe the difference a EMS over a ROM tune can do. This same motor at 27 PSI only made 610 HP with a rom tune on teh stock computer right now with the power train loss (if i had it connected to the same tranny) its already well into the 700's Damn i cant wait to get this thing to the track.
  22. Hey guys sorry if its been mentioned already BUT why go carbs? if you want NA pull the turbos off make a header and tune it for no boost. I actually ran mine with the turbos removed from the system (disconnected both side of the intercooler) to try and get a good base map with no boost. I would say with it tuned perfect it was way better then a na l motor ( stock that is) raise the compression, tune it and you may have a pretty decent power output. But i wouldn't remove the FI intake. with the ITB you have the best components to tune a NA motor. ITB FI is way better then trip carbs IMO
  23. Mods please move to the RB forum :>
  24. I have heard some guesstimates, just wondering if anyone has "REAL" numbers on how much HP is lost to turning a power glide vs a manual tranny. For example if i were making 600 at the wheels with a power glide how much would it might be if i was running a 5 speed? The reason i ask is i was under the impression a glide was more efficient then a manual. But now im hearing i could be loosing as much as 100HP. The reason this concerns me is if my motor was built to handle say 800 and i try to get 750 with a glide i would actually be pushing 850 and thats way beyond what the motor or i can handle :> Thanks
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