Gollum

If I was going to buy an off the shelf kit, that's what I'd get. And as most spec miata guys will tell you, compound matters far more than just about anything. And for autox (read: not long periods of repeating heat ups back to back), thermal mass is almost irrelevant. Most people's perceived "weak braking" is lack of pressure at the pad and/or poor bad choice. And in that regard, the Micro BBK gives you in practice more than double the usable thermal mass, and also much better pad options. All in all I'll be waiting to hear your thoughts once some miles are put on them.

Just updating for others, I reached out and Tom said it's sold.

In case anyone's not paying attention, I'm up to Episode 5 published now. And in the backlog to be released weekly, the engine mounts are done, and I'm working on the transmission mount. I've got my digital whiteboard forming and will transfer to a common cardboard punch list soon. Definitely making progress!

The plan is to gusset the 1.5" tube on multiple planes so that the plate isn't supporting the weight just around the diameter of the tube. Depending on how I feel about it I might do more to reinforce it, even maybe boxing sections in.

Not the most impressive thing. But officially marks being further along than I was with the Ford. Somehow that marker makes this feel far more "real" of a swap now. Like, I can get any engine and just put it into the engine bay. But actually having a mount made? That's something. Also, I'll be posted progress as I go on Youtube. Not trying to make some huge successful channel, just attempting to catalog what I'm doing and share some of the info and kinds of info I wished I could find more easily in the past. Sections of the swap and work on the car will be broken down into sections with their own playlist and grouping of episodes.

No pictures, but got the driver's side plate made for the engine mounts. Kind of "fun" since each bolt is on a different plane, but just takes some fiddling around. I ended up moving the engine towards the drivers side to generate more clearance for the exhaust. This whole powertrain is so much more lithe than the Ford engine it's comical, so it appears as though I should be able to keep the engine/trans parallel to the diff even with the offset. And since there's only the intake on the driver's side, clearance on that side so far looks great. I'm not even close to anything touching the steering.

Well it's far from exactly where it needs to be, but getting a picture for how it will fit and come together. SEMA ready! But in all seriousness, plenty of room for the rear sensors and water neck + cap Hood should clear by a mile in this position (since the center sits fairly proud of the inner fender seam). I think this would leave enough space for pulling the pan without pulling the engine as well as plenty of space for getting belts on. I thought for sure this would sit further forward leaving so much room behind the engine at the firewall. So, that leads us to the real challenge, making the OEM exhaust manifold fit: Now, I already planned on putting a v-band on that so the OEM bracket can come off anyway. So I'll need to take some measurements of the ID/OD at various points, and see if I'd have to put on a 4" v-band then maybe transition to a neck down to a 3" to get it cut far enough up to work. Alternatively I could cut the runners up by the head and add some angle up there (could just cut them 90% through, close the gap and weld them easily enough). This would definitely tuck the manifold in closer to the block, though either way there's still the planned cutting at the other end for a v-band. Just might give me more room and options. And in all that, I need to also figure out fitting the mounts around the manifolds. The intake side should be "easy" because the manifold doesn't want to occupy the same space as the mount, but the steering shaft does. So there's that. I might mock up the intake manifold this weekend simply for some aesthetic motivation. Edit: Oh, and the oil pan is sitting about 3/4" below the cross member. Still well above where the floors sit, but I have the space. Might be worth it raising the whole thing up that much since I have that clearance (and more) above the transmission currently. Won't entirely solve the exhaust manifold fitment, but might make it a touch better.

Engine + Transmission Also added from the previous minimum weight of the engine is an aftermarket aluminum rear coolant housing. Edit: Also includes adding the starter back in since it helps hold the adapter plate on. Not including: - Flywheel - Clutch - Intake Manifold - Exhaust Manifold - Alternator - PS/AC

No updates, sorry y'all. Dealt with the passing of my father (unexpected) this June. So spent a month away which as many might know doesn't just kill momentum but also motivation. I'll be back at it eventually, but might not get back in the garage until later this autumn.

Got my AP1 trans on the scale. Didn't zero tare weight but that's sub 0.5lb from my previous measurements. Weight is wet, with shifter. 104.87 or call it 104 if you want to over-weigh the strap. These only take a very small amount of fluid, so very similar dry vs wet weight (1.4qt iirc off the top of my head)

Another reference. This took me a while as two of my flex plate bolts weren't happy to be removed from their home.

This is fantastic information. I also need to get some dowels but I have that information assuming it's correct: Dowel Pins 4x 15.25mm (Length) x 12.70mm (Diameter) And yeah, I ordered the upper coolant housing version that had the fill neck. I don't have a hood latch, so I wasn't worried about colliding there. As far as mounts, my factory perches are already cut off anyway. And I also already have metal materials and bushings from the Ford swap attempt that I plan to reuse. Luckily mounting is a small piece of the time pie, so it's not a huge expenditure. I wasn't sure yet on a swivel neck housing for the t-stat, and I wasn't sure I liked the idea of tossing parts at something when the OEM parts might work. And yeah, I'm definitely keeping the internal tstat bypass. I'm aware of how bad that would be to entirely eliminate for the pump life, though my research suggests it's probably better to cap off my heater line (since I won't be running a heater) versus routing that in as a second internal bypass. I'm also not adverse to hammering/cutting the transmission tunnel. I already have the reinforcement box that the stock ears are welded to. I'm also not adverse to having the oil pan a touch under the stock L series location, as the stock L series pan actually sits ABOVE the bottom of the floor pan and the lowest point of the radiator from factory. I don't plan to drag the oil pan, but I do plan to eventually build a belly pan and expect to run my engine as low as I can realistically get to that pan. Sounds like your clutch setup will be pretty trick and I'm sure it'll be wonderful. I'm rolling the dice, and going with the ebay xtd option. It might be crap. We'll see. In other news, some goodies have arrived: The MAP sensor on the TB was damaged in shipping, but not a huge deal since I wasn't planning on using it anyway. Intake came with K2F intake adapter and hardware and all looks to be in good shape. Now to just get my two stuck flex plate bolts out (it's been fun). Then I can get manifolds attached and lay the engine in for initial look of how things will lay out. Then onto transmission fitting and planning out the engine mounts.

Also just for openness, this is my current budget states. Intake an exhaust manifolds are en route. A had a lofty soft goal of doing the swap for $4k or less. Still unlikely. But not impossible.

Spent some of my lunch break today in the garage. Front engine mount (now front, RWD orientation): 2.8 lbs Driver's side engine mount bracket: 2 lbs Cylinder head rear coolant bypass (plus a solenoid I likely need to put back on at some point): 2.9 lbs Power Steering Pump bracket: 1.1 lbs (boy did I think that was going to be heavier since it looked like a chunk of iron)

Since the reply button/box is MIA in the general engine/trans weight thread, I figured I'd just start a new topic and let an admin move the post if they wanted. I recently picked up a K24A2. It's an early TSX engine with a RBB-2 head, not the later TSX K24A2. I picked up crane scale that's (in my opinion) accurate enough for what we're working with. It has a limit of 660lbs and is supposed to be accurate +/- 0.1%. I started with the engine as delivered and pulled off parts at a time cataloging the weights as I went. My "linkage" weight was 0.31lbs, but I still tared it out. The engine as it sits in our starting point has known to be REMOVED: exhaust manifold, up pipe post throttle to air box, exhaust side engine mount (is there one?) The engine as it sits in our start point still HAS: Flex plate (auto trans car), AC/PS, Alt, Water Pump, intake manifold, DBW Throttle, Wiring Harness, Starter, and Oil (yes, came wet). It didn't gush any coolant, but considering it had oil I'm sure it would probably leak some coolant if I tipped it on an engine stand. First for removal was the power steering pump (and belt): That puts the PS pump at 6.4 lbs Next was the AC Compressor: That puts the AC compressor at a chunky 13.7 lbs Next was the tensioner: Puts the tensioner at 2.4 lbs Next was the wiring harness: Puts the wiring at 5.5lbs Next up was the alternator: Puts the alternator at 12.3 lbs Next up was a bunch of rubber hoses (vacuum and coolant) that were basically just in the way. Figured I'd include them as a step as to not throw off the weight of the next part: Puts us around 0.9lbs in hoses Next up was the DBW throttle (bolts were put back onto the intake manifold, this is just the dbw throttle): Puts us at 2.9lbs for the throttle body Next up was the "upper" intake (which I find ironic since it's physically lower) manifold half: Puts us a 6.8lbs for the upper intake manifold Next up is the starter (and some wiring attached that goes from the alternator and starter to the main fuse/relay section of the chassis wiring I guess): Puts us at 8.2 lbs for starter and wiring Next up is fuel rail and injectors: Puts us at 1.1 lbs for injectors and wiring (one tip stayed in the manifold, sorry. probably not much weight there) Next up was the lower intake manifold: Puts us at 9lbs for the lower intake manifold Next up is the oil still in the pan: Puts us at 6.2 lbs of oil I removed, which equates to around 3.4 quarts, so since these are generally around a 5-5.5 quart engine you could add another 5lbs to the initial wet weight to make it more accurate for a full wet weight. So what's still on the engine: Flex Plate Front engine mount Intake side engine Mount There's a bracket for the PS I haven't removed Water Pump Thermostat Housing Rear head coolant block Various Sensors/Solenoids (VTEC, VTC and more for example) Coils Spark Plugs Balancer A few random brackets There's probably another 5lbs of stuff from above that has yet to come off that is unlikely to go back on, though not everything that's going back on I can guarantee will be lighter than the OEM parts that came off. As such I'll likely weight again once it's ready to run. And thus there you go. What does a K24 weight? Somewhere between 240 and 320 based upon what the hell you're talking about.