Gollum

The one major slid that I'm talking about just the front slid. And it wasn't a slam. I'd started braking lightly due to brake lights then I noticed they were stoped so I kinda pushed hard and then a little harder, then it slid. I let off then it was fine but I didn't have much time to stop and I'd just slid so I merged into the carpool lane as some guy in a brand new sti going 80mph had to slow down to 30 or so while I accellerated to get out of his way (oh no, I took 30 seconds out of his day). He was the one that I really ticked off but I thought it was my best option at the time, and probly was. I made him mad instead of possible hitting the person in front of me. Ok, now you have the drawn out explaination to what happened. My brother was just mentioning that he never had problems in his cars without ABS and that maybe my brakes are "old and suck". I'm leanding towards maybe I just gotta get used to a lower threshhold in the rain. But now that you mention it my rears have never locked. Only my fronts have ever slid on me. So maybe my proportions are off. But my car is 100% stock. Maybe I should try flushing the entire system before buying a proportioning valve. I should also invest in SS braided lines.

Ok, I see what you guys are saying. But I've already got 195s. Is the problem the tread design? What I guess I might end up doing is evetually upgrading to a wide body and such for a motor swap and then using the stock rims with some expensive winter tires. Does anyone think it could be my brake system? Any other ideas of what it could be? Anyone else had these problems in the rain?

I'm so jelous. 11's and 28mpg vs. my assumed 16's (stock... maybe 17's even...) and 19-20 MPG. I need to put some money into my car. Good job guys. Always nice to see some times from a board full of "while I'm at it" people. Not that I should complain though. I've spent over 1k on my computer this year already, wich could have bought be a motor + some parts. So I have only myself to blame.

Ok, I searched to no avail. I guess we need more ZX guys. Anyone know of any ZG type flares for the ZX cars? I've decided I need more tire. I've got new tires (less than 5k miles, no burn outs... as if my car could ) and I got into a hairy situation the other day in the rain. Traffic was heavy and traffic stopped suddenly, my tires started to slide and I was only going 45 MPH and I barely pressed on the brakes. Luckly nobody was hit/hurt/injured, but I recieved my fair share of middle fingers from everyone... I wasn't even tail gating was the sad part, but it was just about a 10% grade and my car would stop sliding... bogous. So I want more tire next winter. So I figured why do this whole thing twice? I figured I'll just buy some flares and rims at the same time. I like the size of the ZG flares and I like how easy it would be to drill & rivel them on. But I don't like the old school look, so I'd probly fiberglass the seam so it looked smooth. So I need to figure out where I'm gonna get my flares, and what rims I'm gonna buy. I think the rims will be a harder choice, since I have no idea what's on the market. You can basically call me clueless on rims, other than I know what I think looks good. Any help would be appreciated.

I agree that with a good tune most motors can get decent if not great MPG. That said my stock L28E only gets around 20. (19.5 on last tank). For somewhere in the neighborhood of 170HP that's pretty crappy. Even if it was 250HP that's still crumy. But it's an old EFI system, wich is it's only excuse. I have a friend that reems the @$%@ out of his CRX with a B16 and he's never seen under 30 except when he was having ECU trouble and was going into limp mode all the time. He never sees anything more than 5 MPG difference with throttle ON all the time and keeping RPM under 3k. Turbos are a different ball game, simply becuase power takes fuel. An engine under boost will soak fuel. Now, as others have stated even an SR20DET can get over 25 MPG with a heavy foot. I think a cheeper opition would be to keep the L28 and run a stand alone EFI. Some of the people here have seen over 25 MPG on carbed L28's, so I bet you could get even better on a mild street L28 EFI. It would be alot of work, but you deal with different demons than an engine swap. But you can put the money you'd spend on a new motor into things that will get more power to the ground, like flywheel/clutch, aluminium driveshaft, 5 speed tranny, fine spray injectors, intake, ect. For lower street HPs you can pretty much get away with any engine though in my opinion. So take all my advice with a grain of salt.

Once again i'm reminded of why I love HZ. We all have this idea of "if we're not offending someone with our swap, it's the wrong swap" You guys are insane. The very thought of trying to mate two engines like that makes me laugh in a very good way.

Could you design some type of external sleeving to keep the motor in once piece if it blows up? Might be worth the extra 50-100 pounds of steel.

Well, some of the other people here obviously know MUCH more than me when it comes to airplane motors, but I'd like to give a few words of encouragment. I think it would be awsome. Sure it won't win races, or even be let into them for that matter, but it will be unique and have that wow factor. An extreme that you might end up having to go to is totally tubing your front end. I've never done it but i've seen several on the board, so you wouldn't be alone there. Even if you have to lower the HP down to 250-300 to make it reliable with the air cooling it's still neat. And right now I'd be thrilled with 200hp in my ZX....

Also not that the 1uz in the pic is front sump. Not many people like the mid sump motors, and there's a rear sump motor that came in the SC400 cars. Those are common in the US but they're still one of the harder setups to find. But they are out there if that becomes a problem.

I think it's one of the better wide bodies I've seen for a 350z. The beuty of the SR20 = it's small, highly boostable, and affordable making it one of the best options for any 4 cylinder application, especially when space is limited. So why put a low tourqe small motor in a BIG vehicle. Ok, show (or WOW) factor might be something, but any street concern is a joke. Sure, you can do it and make a fast truck, but why? You can't tow anything with it... Oh, and that's a big intake on the 350z. I wonder what the pan setup looks like. Motor looks really low in the bay.

haha, you got me giggling about the forum comment. I wanted to register at lextreme eventually anyways. The sad thing is that there aren't many people getting HP numbers from the 1UZ in NA applications. I personlly don't like the idea of going FI with the added weight. MAYBE a screw type SC but only because some of the weight it adds it removes from the intake. Man issue is heads though. You probly won't ever see above the 600 range without giving your heads to a good head worker along with a wad of cash. But if you're only looking for 200-300 cheep, NA, and light HP or 400-500 affordable FI HP then it's a good choice. But the VG30DET has got me looking at it. I can get a motor for around the same price, much better aftermarket, small & moderately light. I dunno yet. We'll see what happens once I've got cash in hand for my car. I might end up going with a 1UZ purely to be the first person I know of with one in a S130. And at the price of the motor I can buy another one down the road and have it built up so I just swap the motors. I hope whatever engine you choose does what you want it to do

I really wish I could tell you, and a couple of months ago I could have just gone outside and measured it as my grandfather owned a LS400 (only engine in those is the 1uz). BUT it was hit and run and consiquently totalled. Insurance company never contacted me with info as to where it was going, even though I requested the information. Oh well. I might be able to find something for you. You can get a good look at it on http://www.1uzfe.com, here's a pic taken from his site http://1uzfe.com/100704e.jpg I'm searching while i'm typing up this post. Here's a nice PDF with some useful info, but I don't see any block dimensions http://www.lextreme.com/Lex%20Soarer92.pdf Ok, found something I had to register with the lextreme forums, but here it is... ==================== 1. these are approximate only +/- 5mm 2. based on front-mount sump 1UZ, that is why I have taken measurements for the front using the crank centreline for a datum, and the side using the mount plate centreline as a datum. This means all dimensions are applicable to most 1UZ variants, except of course for specific sump details. I strongly suggest that you source a front of engine photo and side photos from the forums so you can make sense of the dimensions. 3. intended as a guide only- you should go to a wrecker/engine supplier and suss-out the whole thing before placing your order! FRONT OF ENGINE datum is centreline of crankshaft, with dimensions North/East/South/West of this point; u'side of sump S 240 rh side of sump W 220 lh side of sump E 200 sides of heads E/W 335 (+50 for exhaust manifold) top of heads N 370 u'side of alternator S 95 rh side of alternator W 290 u'side of p.steer pump N 20 rh side of p.steer pump W 360 u'side p.steer reservoir N 135 rh side p.steer reservoir W 375 top p.steer reservoir N 320 top inlet manifold N 450 LH SIDE OF ENGINE datum is centre of engine block mount plate (not actual engine mount), with dimensions North/East/South/West of this point; [Note that the datum is on the same horizontal plane as the crankshaft] front of engine W 345 rear of engine E 310 front of sump W 260 rear of sump W 15 sump drain tray clearance S 175 centreline exhaust manifold outlet E 340 u'side of exhaust manifold outlet flanges S 75 RH SIDE OF ENGINE same datum as above; rear of alternator E 120 rear p.steer pump E 150 front p.steer reservoir E 290 rear p.steer reservoir E 200 OTHER USEFUL MEASUREMENTS Centreline of crank to side of exhaust manifold outlet flange 310mm ============================================ Oh yea, here's the Vid that I mentioned about a S30 with a 1UZ http://www.lextreme.com/video/400.wmv He put down 225HP with a stock motor other than a custom intake box. Really wish I could get a pic of the engine bay. Power was extremely liniar. (spelling? sorry)

wow, sounds amazing. Exhast note is quite lovely. How loud does it get from inside?

That's because there's only one known S30 with a 1uz and all most have ever seen about it is a video of it one the dyno. So no real clue how well it even fits, but we know it fits.

Oh look, another guy that makes me feel like crap about my car. #1 post and his car's already 100 times better looking than my car. Nice work m/ o.o m/ If you've got more pictures I'd love to see them. Oh, and welcome to HZ! Good group of people here.

If it's indeed a CJ then it's worth a pretty penny. The CJ heads where the best production heads of the era except maybe the boss 429 heads. Is the motor special? I wouldn't say so. Ford still produces the CJ series for crate motors so it's not like they're rare. Modern performance parts are much better as well. But the stock motor with forged internals could probly handle some insane powers easily enough. More than enough to be a handful in any car. In theory you could fit the motot in the smaller 65-66 body mustangs, but it just won't be fabrication/modification free. The main reason ford made the mustang bigger in 67 was so they didn't have to vastly modify every mustang to fit the big blocks. Compared to the 5.0 rollers the 428 NA will blow away the potential of the stock 5.0 internals. 500 wheel HP should be easily atainable on a stock 428 block/heads and internals. You gotta consider the starting point for these motors is double the 5.0. I'd say the weight trade off depends on how much work you want to do to the mustang. If you're going to be retro-modding it to have modern suspension I'd say the weight isn't that big of a deal, unless it was gonna be a weekly autox'er or something of the likes.

I don't know, I have lots of mixed feelings about the GTO. As most know I'm a ford guy at heart so actually considering a GM to buy is challanging to say the least. But I think I do a good job of giving respect where it's do. The GTO was a great drift car, very predictable and managable on the track. Plenty of power, and nice interior (expecially compared to the other pontiac stuff). Where did it fall? It's looks. Sure sleepers are cool but that thing wouldn't appeal to even secrataries. It looked like a early 90's flashback. Look at what sells (aroud here at least) BMW 3 series, Mercedes, ect. Very new age angular boxes. There are few large round cars on the market that are selling well. Even for a mainstream car it needed alot more edge to it. Then for the muscle car crowd it needed even a step beyond that to sell. What they really should have done is desinged a whole new look for it and had a lower HP version as a budget option then a sport version with 400+ HP with a much more agressive edge. We all know the evo sells tons of base lancers but the GTO can't sell itslef becuase you can't get into them for a cheep price. Then again, most companies have a long way to go to really understand the concept of a halo car. I might shed a tear for the poor GTO, because all it really needed was an artist's touch. Fairwell.

And how excepting hybridZ is. For example, true school has been on my friends list since I saw on HZ that he had a myspace account (i think in his profile, I can't quite remember) and I loved the music on his myspace. I'm a metal guy at heart but I grew up in a very urban area so rap is just apart of life. You're not free until you can be diverse. Maybe that makes hybridz the most free forum on the planet. And oh yea, to true school: Your music still rocks! Keep it commin'

I'd seen one of them one tv... ...now I know the rest are even better Genius, they make fun of the import market while still appealing to them. Just plain genius.

price maybe? I don't know what the VH runs but the early model 1uz motors are very cheep. Newer ones cost a bit more but have VVT. Early models are low 200hp and they slowly progressed to the 280 mark. SC models usually had a slight increase in power over the respective LS model of the same year. The 1uz isn't a large V8, but it can be made to rev to pretty hight limits. I think they're both good motors. I wish I could think of some cons for either for you, but I can't.

http://myspace.com/escapingfate Yea... the music sucks. I'm much better now, I just havn't taken the time to sit down and do more recording. But I still think the quality isn't bad for $10 software and an onboard soundcard. 8) I might add some of you guys once I get back to my PC. (at work now)

The ZX speedos (at least in almost all the NA cars i've seen) only go to 85. But I've gottento 5k in 5th on oem suspention and no front sway bar (bushings are dead so it hangs dangerously low). I would have taken it higher that night but I didn't trust the motor at those loads, seeing as it's completly untouched to me and I don't know what kinda abuse it had before me. But the car felt great over smooth roads. It definately had a good amount of lift, but it wasn't unmanagable. But I've scared myself much more going 70 recently. VERY high winds night and my car was all over the place. At some points I was down to 50 on the freeway because of sidewinds. But I'd say average top speed for everyday driving is probly about 85-90 for me. But that's not abnormal around here. Get on the freeway during light traffic and the fast lane will be going at least 75-80. I'm trying to cut down on my top speeds, becuase that's what kills people SO easily. If you crash and hit anything stationary your lucky to survive. But I try to fallow standard autobahn rules when I drive. 1) Don't hang out in the fast lane. 2) Don't pass on the right. I try to never tail gate, but it's a must sometimes in heavy traffic. But even then I'll try to make room in front of me when I can. I also will only pass on the right if I can get two lanes right of the person, or can make sure they know I'm passing (even then I watch them like a hawk to make sure they don't forget I'm there). But even the best rules in the world don't make you safe. I'd like to echo the take it to the track policy. I'd much sooner pay a speeding ticket than any other ticket, simply becuase the speed laws make sence. I'm not saying I don't wish we had german speed laws, but thier system is way different. Under OUR road laws the speed laws make sence.

Now all it needs is a F20C and RWD! Hey, it would probly kill my stock ZX, so maybe I should just put my foot in my mouth.

I was like, wrx, 350z, and a... a... a... :scroll down: MERKUR HAHAHA. It almost could be a merkur. We owned one back in the day (4 door). Probly one of the best cars in our family ever, until it overheated at 280k and warped the head and cracked it. Never got the crack fixed due to NO part availability, but it ran to 310k till we decided it had suffered enough. Awsome car. But now that I look at it I do see the audi in it. Awsome fiance by the way.

I'm sorry if it sounded like I was mocking you. I only meant to inform. Looking back on it, it did sound harsh, so let me say i'm sorry. And here's probly the most technically advanced portable guitar on the market. http://www.musiciansfriend.com/product/Guitar/Electric?sku=519146 And that's 1k from a large scale company. But that's penuts. Now, a company like carvin has got it figured out. That steinburg probly only made the factory about $200-$400 worth of profit depending on thier expence into making it. A company like carvin is making guitars in insane numbers all built to custom spec and selling them direct for comparable prices. They cut out the middle man and save the buyer a dime WHILE making more money. That's a buisness to model after. And I actually know of the shop and guitar you speak of. I know all th shops in santa cruz. That little town has quite a music rep. Ther martin acoutic travellers are a joke, in fact, every main brand portable acoustic i've played where horrible. The only good ones are the ones made by small companies. One of these days I'm gonna buy a parker and figure out how they're put together. Then I can actually make a "real" guitar.