Gollum

Yes you do, don't lie.

You know who would know? Tremec. They supplied the T-5 and they're usually really good about answering emails. They'll probly tell you exactly what you need to convert the tranny over to a hydrolic clutch. Have you ever driven a mustang with a heavy clutch? Ouch in traffic, that's for sure. http://www.ttcautomotive.com/English/products/T-5.asp

I'm not gonna say don't stroke it, but stroking a motor have have a big effect on how a motor revs. For example, B16 vs B18. Identical motors, but the B16 revs INSANELLY fast and smooth. The 1.8 increase in displacement even though has more power, doesn't rev as nice. Now, just boring has a much smaller effect on rev ability than stroking. SR240 had good advice. Forged rods will widthstand the higher revs safely, forged pistons are a must for anything serious (talking out my a$$, i just like to be safe personally), and most of rev ability lies in the head. That's where you spend your bankroll. I don't know a ton about SR motors so I don't know what's easily avaible at that point, so this is where I shut up. There are plenty of people here that know thier fair share about SR motors.

WHY?!?!?!?! It's SO NICE. What's wrong with it? You're selling because you don't want to put flares on it? So don't put flares on it. I'm SO confused right now. I'm gonna go cry.

I love photoshop work. Kinda one of my TOO MANY hobbies. With the photo mode in GT4 I can waste time WAY to fast. This was half an hour of driving and 10 minutes of editing work one of my favorites SORRY FOR THE THRED HIJACK.

Well, lowering the compression would lower the burn temperature and temp within the chamber, wich are the two things that create detonation. Maybe I'm just stupid. I understand quench is good. But you make it sound like you achieve all the quench from the compression (stating that lowering the compression .5 will ruin the quench) instead of the actual chamber design. So if .5 will loose "nearly ALL quench" how do low compression motors not detonate themselves to death? I'm not knocking you down, I just want to understand your philosophies on the subject.

K, here's 2003z's Z in a light blue. I can get any blue you want if you don't like this.

I could do better, can I get the origonal? I'll check your gallery

Just imagine how a NA 3 rotor would look in there. :drooooooooool: I want to move out of state now. :still wiping drool off face:

Left, got a black ZX one around that you know about? I email some shops today that had fenders listen in ther inventory online. Most of them didn't mention color though. Yea, if I do a rattle can job i'd expect to have to sand it all off if I did a real paint job later. Right now, since I'm broke (i've got $30 on me) I'm thinking of just getting the cheepest left fender that's straight that I can find, then just deal with mismatch for a while. I feel so ghetto.

I personally never said it couldn't be done or was a bad idea. I just stated that more information needed to be given' date=' EXPECIALLY to people where 91 octane is the best avaible. Some very careful consideration needs to be taken for say, someone like me who lives in CA. Running this head might end up being more expensive for the power than just buying a L28ET from a junkyard, or even using the stock head and having it ported and putting a larger cam in. There are lots of options to consider. The MN47 seems like a GREAT option, if you can run 93 in it and be fine where you live. This isn't an option for many people. This is my only argument. That just giving people a head recomendation without any type of disclaimer seems rude to me. And I don't think anyone took notice of the link I posted, so I'll post some parts that apply here. So why do you say that higher compression is always better again 1 fast z? In theory you're right, and I agree with you, but if I have to run 91 octane there are other factors to consider. Now, has anyone considered a high profile head gasket to bring the compression down .5 or so? That seems like a great idea for people running a MN47 on lower octanes.

Like I had said, there's gonna be ping issues unless you're using an aftermarket FI system. That's the sum of 'my' previous post. So even as you've show, it's nothing close to a bolt on power adder. Such a recomendation needs more explaination than 1 fast z's origonal post, unless you like to deal with ping issues.

I'd like to add a small piece of info to this. Although tim was right in the fact that you don't have to take your car to the ref for a swap into a 75 or older vehicle (legally) the state promotes you to. And here's the real key. If you take your newly swapped engine to the ref to get it all checked out, they put a nice little plate in your engine bay so that the CHP can't send you to the ref unless they find aftermarket non CARB legal parts installed. It's basically just a plate saying what motor is in the car. Most CHP officers are looking for key things, such as guages (A/F ratio guages really set them off, boost controllers are a no no, and any other suspicious guages can result in a fixit tell you to go to the ref), modified intake systems, OEM looking exhast manifold/headers, nitrous and other obvious midifications (force induction is quite obvious and will require some explaination). If you can cover those key points you shouldn't ever have to deal with the ref again. I'd also guarentee that NO cop is gonna crawl on the ground to check for cats. The only thing to watch out for after that is exhast volume. They can send you to the ref for noise pollution testing. So if they stick you with it you might want to cooperate, since fighting it will result in a trip to the ref. I personally preffer quiet smooth exhast as long as it performs well, but I know some guys preffer the type that will knock your fillings loose. It was also stated that the refs are "very very smart & knowledgable" this is true, and not true. They're very smart, but they don't know tons about actual motor history and such (in most cases). Most refs can't even tell you wether or not a honda motor came from japan or not. If you stuck the USA stickers on the ECU they wouldn't know the difference (when in reality there are a slew of differences). There are many car specific things they don't know much about. I still bet I could get a RB25DE to pass... But for those looking to do things legally, they're very helpful people. They're good friends to make too Also, I don't think you HAVE to have the gas tank from the donor car, as longs as the sensors & evap system are used from the donor car (though using the tank from the donor might be easlier methinks).

only one for sale on collectorcartrader 1971 OPEL MANTA, 2dr., auto/stick, a collectible, NEEDS RESTORATION, $1995 or best offer 630-393-1581 Warrenville(630) 393-1581 upon trying to get the email thier site says that the ad is no longer in the database. Might have already sold. If you're interested I'd call asap. But that's just me.

It's an 81 ZX. I've considered getting a used fender, but I'd still have to paint it and such unless I could find a black one. Rudypoochris mentioned a JY with lots of Zs, I might check that out. I understand if I end up spraying 2part epoxy prime I could get close to the $300 to have it done, BUT I think I'd end up with more knowledge and many of the tools I'll need to do the rest of the car (wich would cost 10k according to the quotes i've gotten). Even if it's more expensive in the short term, it'll be a good start on the cheeper long run methinks. I also understand if I go rattle car primer I need to use a sealer, that why I was asking about epoxy primers being a sealer as well. I'm not TOO dumb.... But right now the only reason I'd buy a fender from another car would be to save myself the headache of getting it straight. If I can find one that's black (corssing fingers) I could go around the whole thing entirely and be on my way.

Ok, i'm gonna HAVE to start learning body work becuase my car was hit and I don't have cash for a $300 fender repair & paint. (gonna get an estimate tomarrow, 3 previous shops wouldn't take me because of the car's age) So... I was thinking I'd just go buy a hammer and dolly to start straightening the fender out. I'm gonna ask about local regulations for spraying when I make a trip out to ned's out in concord (been told they're good). So, IF I can somehow manage spraying epoxy primer, how long will the color last? I don't need it to last a year, but I don't want it fade so often I'm repriming every couple of months. And some epoxy primers also act as sealers correct? I don't think I have any rust on the fender, but I have rust in other areas that worry me. So here's a shopping list off the top of my head. Sanding blocks Various Grit wed/dry sand paper (recomendations?) Plastic body filler ( i know, DON'T overuse) Hammer Dolly Rattle can primer OR Epoxy primer & gun kit Now, what kinda compresser can I get away with? I've got a 2 gallon 1 hp and I was thinking it MIGHT work for just the fender. Anyone tried working with such a crappy compresser? Or would I be reduced to using a touch up gun? (laughs at the mental image) I know there was a recomenations recently on a body filler that didn't pinhole. I'll look for it but anyone who feels like it can chime in 8) So for the interested, here's what happened. My car was parked in front of my house. Sometime in the middle of the night an idiot turned around in front of my house (cross street) and was probly a little drunk and didn't realise they weren't gonna make it... crunch. Too bad it didn't wake me up. They obviously didn't leave any info, so I'm screwed. I don't have comprehensive insurance coverage. They hit the fender just in front of the door and pinched the door shut, so i've been crawling into my car from the passanger side. Lucky me the fender was the ONLY thing hit. The fender already had a little bit of damage so at least it wasn't my good fender that was it. My bumber had been hit before so it's tweaked a bit... I was thinking... maybe while I'm at it I'll try my hand at some fiberglass... Just eliminate the front bumber and make a FG one. Set in the blinkers and I should be set. Just an idea. I have a friend with 2 years of auto body repair schooling, but he doesn't have tons of time on his hands to help me out, and also has no place for me to work on the car. So he's only good for advice at the moment. He doesn't have alot of expertise with FG to my knowledge so I'd just be going from stuff i've heard explained and seen done. Never touched it myself.

^^ Post pics when done

So is traction directly related to tire friction? If that's the case, does a larger tire (255/45/16 vs 255/45/18 ) yeild more potential friction? And is there really more friction lateral than straight? Seems to me that there is much less friction (traction) avaible lateraly as you can get almost any car sideways at slow speeds, but the same car could have trouble loosing traction accelerating or deccelerating. Correct? Now, F1 cars do have insanely wide tires, AND alot less weight to worry about. Is this the main factor contributing to the extremely high lateral G? Are my initial thoughts about tires correct and the F1 senerio is just far outside the extreme of my train of thought of lateral vs straight traction? We should start our own thred. Kinda hijacking here....

Then why do they still run into traction problems with wheelspin? I don't think I'm fully grasping all this. I'm not saying you're wrong, I'm saying my mind isn't understanding something here.

You know, I always thought with how small the Z is you don't really have to worry about that, just don't pull in all the way and odds are you're in far enough. I guess I was wrong. I'm too used to our SUV sized parking spots here in CA. But you're in texas, I thought everything was bigger over there?

They're ZG flares, wich I thought was mentioned in this thred. Look them up in the search.

It's all a balance of grip, so why can you create more G decellerating than acceleraiting since it's the same surface area? But in general isn't there less lateral traction than straight traction? I guess it all comes down to the footprint of the tire. EDIT: I think I just figured my own quesiton out. Accelerating the tires have to fight the wieght of the car to create G, where as deccelerating the weigt of the car helps create G. Am I right? Or totally mixed up like I always am

looks like a nice motor build. looks track worthy to be sure. I bet it'll make a killer street car in the end 8) About a year ago (right after I got my current ZX running) I calculated how much it would cost for me to rebuild my ZX and turn it into a ZXT with full cage, fuel cell, ect. ect. ect. and just in parts I priced it was well into the 18k range. So total build would be well over 20k even if I did 85-95% of the work myself, wich would require me learning some new trades along the way. So I understand that it all adds up quick. Honestly, this is the main factor that scares me. If you do a rebuild right you can easliy spend what it costs to buy something new, or better yet, build a kit car. Of course, saying your car is your own beucase you made it is better than saying your car runs "x" times stock. My hat is off in honor of your tribute. I'm glad to see it's all moving along so well.

You KNOW the M3 dude has his own set of issues. . . . . . . He drinks Diet Mt. Dew

Another thing (i really should just start editing my posts) is that in GT4 cars have more lateral traction than horizontal traction. I'm not sure if I got my terms right, but basically the car has less grip for acceleration than turning. This is quite opposite than real life and from the rumors GT4 is like this due to limitations of the physics engine designed for GT3. But I think you're right rudy, there are parts where it seems the car should just plain be flying from the bumps. This is the unrealistic dampening that I was talking about, it just doesn't make sence. But I still recomend LFS to anyone who enjoys GT4, you can even try it out for free. If you have a wheel it's a really awsome experience.