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Ahh there we go I was going to say it wasnt working for me as well, Ill definetly keep an eye on this as well.

Yeah thats what I figured, and not to mention I could go with a beefy joint from an older GM, that is very plentiful and cheap as well in a spicer design. I see what your saying and understand how that could and would work, though. Seems if you could get it done it would be worth it. Not to mention what you said about making them serviceable and having the staking was exactly what Nissan told me this morning. It is the reason why they arent serviceable. Eh, just hate to have to tow her home. but you will have that, those that race will eventually break something

Well yes I have found out that I have to replace the shaft. There is a place here though that will do all the work balance the shaft, weld new yolks for servicable joints and all for 100 dollars so I cant really complain that isnt to bad. On the second note of the time. My best before with the stock turbo, stock tb and mandrel bent stock sized exhaust with a dynomax muffler was 13.4 @102 Just seems weird, I thought I would be a bit faster but hey no complaints, just wish I wasnt left out in the cold though, cuz once your done they shove you off and it is the WORST feeling sitting there and you cant do anything. Good thing was that the track owner let me keep my car on his property and said not to worry someone is there everyday and that to just let him know when Im coming to get it. Even let me use his phone and got one of the racers to ride me to a spot to get picked up at too. Cant get any much more help then that. Thought it was really great of him. Thanks for the replies guys.

You could drill and if you have a torch heat it up nicely and try an easy out to see if you can get it out. If you cannot then I would say to drill it out and retap with a stud instead if you can and go from there. The local shop around here charges only 5 buck per bolt to remove. So you might just want to do that instead, if its not to much trouble. Good luck

Well it isnt that bad but I cant seem to find the part that I need and maybe someone here would know where I could get it at. What it is is that Ujoint at the transmission end of the driver shaft. I cant believe it broke on me but it did, I was on my third run, just did my burnout and when it caught the sticky rubber on the track it just went SNAP clunk clunk clunk. I called a few local places and they all said that this part is not replaceable Is this true??? Its for an 82 280ZX turbo with the b/w T-5. Would I really need a whole new driveshaft, I hope not as it is just a Ujoin I would think that you can replace it. Ill be trying the Nissan dealer in the morning. Any other ideas are welcome as well. Thanks. On another note, with all the new upgrades I have done my time was actually slower yet my traps were much higher. Best out of the only 2 runs I got to make before the Ujoint snapped was a 14 flat @ get this 107.7 mph Whats up with that?

Awesome, and a great catch too!

Looks pretty nice and the price seems right as well, rotors are a bit small but still for the money I dont think you can complain. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=88433&item=5585344412&rd=1

Hmmm maybe not a bad idea, I do have some sputtering still but not hesitation, upgrading the wires from what was 14 gauage!! to 10 gauge wire really helped a lot. The fuel is now there but all I have left to do is verify by T ing in a gauge that I can see so I know for sure, but it does feel a lot better now. Ill look into that as well Vinh, Thanks.

Getting it around or over the crossmember and under the axle but close enough not to rub was the hardest part but the part I wanted to take the most time on because of like you I didnt want to have ground clearance issues. Getting threw the corssmember was a bit of a pain but there is enough room, about 3/8 of an inch on either side if you weld it in the right spot that is. I went first with the dp, then out to where I wanted to be, then set up the muffler and started my way back. I know I was working backwards but it was the only way to see how it was going to turn out without having to cut and weld again. Here are some more pics. The last one there you see the amount of room there isnt, I still have to tack on my hanger that connects to the top of the diff there to keep it pulled to center betwenn the crossmember the diff and the body of the car. Ground clearance is a non issue, everything is up and doesnt come below the frame rails at all. That is something Im proud of. Only complaint I have is that its a bit to close for me to the transmission and Im trying to think of a way to keep the heat off from the tranny, any suggestions there. I was thinking of a manifold blanket or something I could wrap around it. Just dont know at the moment. By the way yours looks really good, I wish I had the skills that Im sure Ill learn to weld as good as that, eventually

Well before putting it all back together, I did change all vacumn lines to new again, and I am a firm believer of dialetric grease on every connection. It cant hurt to try though but I am going to upgrade the power and ground wires to the fuel pump from a 14 gauge wire to a 10 gauge wire. Though now thinking that you mention it, I did have to move the afm a bit and the connection there might be a bit off, Ill make sure to check that as well. Thanks for the replies.

Those are some good numbers what I like is how the torque and hp curver are pretty well linear, seems megasquirt is doing well. Good job.

That is just unbelievable, what would you call that cause its not even close to a F1

It might have been a different one, was it green that one you saw Sparks?

That is one beautiful car and I did see one on ebay a while back that had a 289 in it.

I got a few today hopefully I can get it up in the air to show you guys but there is like 3 in my gallery, dont make fun of my welds lol I know Im not the greatest but I gave it my best effort

Wow this really turned into a discussion. I have to agree, the 350Z looks drives and feels nice, and it wasnt meant to bash the 350Z at all but just the mentallity of the dirver. All I wanted to do was to say hey nice ride and isnt this cool, a Datsun 280ZX and a new 350Z at the same light, what are the chances. He just blew me off like I was some sort of lowly ricer and didnt even have a clue as to the fact that I was driving one of the cars from his cars history Like I said the car had some unbelievable grunt for an N/A six. I was quite impressed with its power and how it seems to just glide across the road. Ive watched several events on tv which do show that the 350Z is quite a capable racer in autox, and if anyone thinks differently then they havent been watching the tv. If I had the extra cash I would definetly buy one for myself. Of that there is no doubt.

I think that the wheels look fantastic and the car looks just as good too, the girl is a nice addition as well. Great job!

Just a bit leary of having a gauge with fuel going to it flapping about at my window lol. I do have a relay hooked up ith the pump and it isnt the original pump its a Walbro, and Ive been reading that they are pretty good about 3rd in line next to Bosch's pump and the Pierburg pump. I do have a gauge on the rail but a lot of good that does going down the road. I dont think though that the wires to the pump are 10 gauge but rather 14 gauge, would this also cause a bit of a problem with enough juice getting to it. I noticed that when I had a battery that was dying and without charge to the alternator looking at my blitz TT, I like to keep it on volts to know what the pump or at least the system as a whole is getting that anytime it dropped past 12.9 volts you could hear the pump change its tune or hmm and it totally sounded different. Ill try and tape a gauge up to see what Im actually doing and report back. Thanks for the help folks.