JavelinZ

probably talk to engineered performance.

Those are one of the several variants of Western turbine wheels. Had a set on my car for a long time. They were a dealer add on option. You can't give a set of those away in my neghborhood. So kinda doesn't matter what they are. Not something that is sought after like XR4's or Longchamps.

Daily drive it for 6 months and then let us know what they look like. That's where cheap stuff has always shown its true colors for me. I'd be surprised if the upholstery holds up.

Edited my above post to reflect some other stuff I found.

Dang I can't find the link from a couple years ago. I think I saw something on Kameari's website about reproducing new castings of the mk63 calipers. They had pics of the rough castings pre machining. I had to translate the japanese obviously. I can't find it on their site now. It was awhile ago though maybe it wasn't Kameari. Parts Assist M Speed has the new units though. I know I wasn't on their site when I saw the post about the castings from a couple years back. These were a factory Z, hako, caliper for vented rotor. I'd run these. Not sure what the "stock" rules mean in his class but the mk63's were the road racing caliper back in the day weren't they? (I don't know too much about the old factory race car setups from back in the day) I've always assumed the mk63's were the homologation brake for one of the lower sports car classes. https://www.rhdjapan.com/parts-assist-m-speed-mk63-4pot-caliper-brake-kit-s30-s31-b110-gc10-kpgc10-pgc10-kgc10-kpc10-pc10-gc110-gc111-gc210-gc211.html *I would ignore the rotor diameter callout in the RHD description. Also, found this on the "other forum" should be some info in here. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/56999-looking-for-a-set-of-sumitomo-calipers-mk63/ Kameari should have a stock vented disc http://www.kameariengineworks.co.jp/Catalogue-v3/catalogue-075-20160731.pdf

So you want to build a VIP car... The word budget means something else in that scene. KyoeiUSA had a beautiful LS400 years ago. I think that car had an $8k custom interior in it. I recall Jin saying in an article something along the lines of "showing what you could accomplish on a budget." I personally like VIP builds, incredible effort and expense goes into making a unique build. If you want it to be all "ultimate driving machine feeling" put 10k or more in the interior. It is what you touch after all. Nice new dash, maybe defi gauges, custom carpet (not some cheap kit), door cards, seats, headliner, all of it. Leaning towards keeping it original looking, maybe a little flair here or there. The stock interior in my Z was nice and comfortable, granted my '77 had the most trim panels inside compared to earlier models. Maybe you put a bunch of money into the inside, and do it well, it will only be nicer. I don't know what condition your car is in but if it is basically crap and needing everything. Well a broken ruler isn't much of a measuring stick. I can kind of compare this because my unrestored, unmolested 85k mi time capsule 280Z was my only daily driver from 2008 to 2016. In 2014 I put coilovers and r-compound tires on it and drove it until I decided the car was showing its age at more frequent intervals. So I retired it from daily duties and bought a UCF20 LS400. That has been the daily since. Having both of those to compare, you will never get the Z as quiet as something like a luxury sedan. NVH testing today makes whatever they were doing in the 70s look nonexistent. (Honestly I don't think something like wind noise was something they really gave a crap about when designing the Z or most cars from the 70s.) There was plenty of other louder things to deal with. Wind noise around the cabin was probably the thing I heard the most. It is what it is. Also the Z is an open compartment hatch not something with a trunk like your 5 series. That plays a big roll in attenuating sounds from the back of the car. That and I think having a heavier chassis like a sedan helps in keeping road noise down. Less tin can, more lead sled. My Z was in better condition than most cars I have seen, when I was driving it. Original weatherstripping in good shape, the whole of the car was like that. I didn't think the Z was an overly noisy or uncomfortable daily. Also no cabin fumes. I bought a Z because I wanted a Z and I love it for what it is. The Z is just an honest, driving, raw kind of experience. Maybe it's difficult to fully experience the Z when the car is an auto box. Something else I just realized, my cousin had an E39 540i six speed. I rode in that car several times. It was fine, not sure it would be any gold standard to measure against. (However it is what you have to compare with) I will say my cousin has been in my LS and he mentioned how good it rides, and he has had far more cars than I. Like others have said it sounds like you maybe want something else... also what if you go through this, are 50k deep and the Z just can't be what you think you wanted it to be. Or maybe you just don't actually know what you want due to lack of overall experience with cars/projects? (Honest/rhetorical question) Maybe you sell both cars, get an LS500 and have KyoeiUSA do air runner and some Ordens. 500hp and 30mpg if I recall. $80-85k all in I'd say?... Game Over. (Half joking half serious) Not sure if any of this helps. If you don't like your Z for some reason it might just be the fact of its present condition being in need of major repair? Keith is here in town. He put a nice Z together after he sold his Amazon. Although I haven't bumped into the car in person since he finished it. I know the air ride kit is custom. http://www.stanceworks.com/2016/09/round-2-keith-rosss-1977-datsun-280z/

I had my turbo manifold coated by swain tech. I know swain won't internal coat turbo manifolds out of concern that it could flake off and strike the turbine. Makes sense to me since manifolds grow and wiggle around when they get hot and ceramic isn't exactly known for being the flexible guy in the room. HotRod ran an article years back on TBC coatings. They coated everything, intake/exhaust runners, valves, pistons. They used a V8 in the 400+/- cube range. I want to say all in all they eeked out another 15 horse or so. With just the TBC stuff as the change. Kinda costly considering just my manifold was $200 to coat. Adds up quick on piece parts for a few more hp. I know TBCs show up in jet turbine hot sections at times particularly the blades and stators. Usually only see it when you are trying to push the EGTs a bit higher to eek out some more performance margin for an application. I think the reason you don't see it in L-builds is, well, look at the typical level of build most guys putting L's together are going for. That, and not too many guys with all out builds like the 300hp NA race builds that get torn down every 20hrs, that JohnC would often speak of, don't generally post on forums. (Those guys are usually busy making stuff happen and getting things done.) Those builds probably have some TBC in them if the rulebook doesn't out right ban it. I think it is definitely something worth doing in certain applications but I don't think it is in the budget for most builds. (Or on most peoples minds honestly) Most people think about cranks, pistons, cams and port work. I don't think coatings get thought about for most build sheets with a budget. If I was running a competitive late model in a tight class I would spend the extra grand or two to put it in the winners circle if a couple horse was the deciding factor. (I think that is rarely the case to be honest) WPC Treatment is something definitely worth looking into as shown by MotoIQ. I am heavily leaning towards doing WPC for the motor I need to build for my car. I'm not so sure I am leaning towards much TBC stuff considering I will be well away from the threshold where I am chasing every last bit to get in front of someone. Not really the purpose of my own build at the end of the day. I am probably going to TBC the exhaust manifold and the downpipe. Send the heat to the turbo and out the tail pipe. No reason to cook the engine bay ancillaries anymore than the other hot stuff does. WPC is some cool stuff, especially if you are looking for longevity. https://motoiq.com/wpc-treatmemt-saved-our-engine/

Those S7 cams look money. Along with everything else obviously.

Have a picture of the rear strut and lower adapter? If you welded them 3 inches up in the rear you should have at least the diameter of the cartridge threaded into the sleeve. I'd have to go look at mine again. I'd lower it til the fender gap is gone. But that's just me. Didn't ask this before but why are you trying to stay stock ride height?

@AlbatrossCafe I'm still here floating around. Actually I only left a 1/4" of old tube on my front spindle. I think I cut the tube off a 1/2 - 3/4" above the casting for the rear struts. That is more out of necessity than choice as it is hard to get a sawzall in there to get the rear tube cut off with the stock drum backing plates in the way. I would have cut the rear down to only a 1/4" tall stub if I could have fit the saw in there to do it. No extra "sturdiness" is gained in leaving the tube longer as Munters mentioned. That is a weird myth people in the community keep perpetuating. There is no design methodology I am aware of, that mystically grants more strength by leaving dangling tube inside another. For the old tube stub to offer extra strength it would have to be an interference press fit (or fusion welded) between the ID of the adapter tube and the OD of the old tube. That is not the case with any of the mcpherson weld on coilover adapters I have seen offered for these cars. If the adapter slides/drops down over the cut down tube, all afforded strength is in the weld between the spindle casting and the adapter tube (Like I did). I drove my car for 2 more years as a daily before I took it down for a resto, the welded joints are all fine. The new slip on adapter is stronger than the stock tube, Thicker tube wall and larger OD means more cross sectional area in the tube so more load bearing than the stock unit, as far as tube itself is concerned. The fronts bottom out first on a 280Z. At full drop the 280z "frame rails" are 1.25" off the ground on my car. (I ride around at 2.5" rail to ground clearance). I think I could technically lower the car enough in the rear to pick the wheels off the ground at full drop. Stance actually has a shorter length cartridge you can use for the fronts now I believe. (I could probably put the rails on the ground if I swapped to the new cartridge, but that doesn't interest me.) The rear 280z adapter tubes are about 3 inches longer than the fronts. So technically, when the front bottoms out, you should be able to lower the rears 2-3 more inches, not something you would do, obviously. If you have a 240Z you would use a 6" tall adapter tube front and rear, (different rear strut tower geometry). The amount you can lower the car is directly related to how much tube you leave behind. Leave too much and want to go lower? You won't be able to. Just cut the old strut tubes off 1/4" tall and you'll be fine. Strength is in the weld not the old tube, old stub is just along for the ride. Besides you can't go back and cut them shorter later. I've seen a few guys with the BC coils leave a bunch of tube (also incorrectly thinking it is somehow stronger/safer) and they ultimately can't lower their cars as much as they wanted. A lack of understanding often leads to poor choices and regret sometimes, as it goes with most things in life. Hope that answers your question Albatross. Sorry for the long response.

The fact that this question of price is being asked, KW's aren't for most people. I'll just leave this here: http://www.tf-works.com/brands/KW-Suspension.html Edit: Nevermind the fact the S30 ones will only be offered in V3 (since that is what is debuting), and the fact that they are unique from most all KW's other stuff in that they have a spindle and caliper mount.

BRAAP had a really good efi induction FAQ type thread a few years back that had a lot of info. I don't remember what section it is under anymore. But it should be there. Stock NA injectors won't do it. Cam is a waste of money on stock L28 intake, intake is the first real restriction you run into, especially NA. Several guys with stock turbo engines I know made 230-240 hp on stock turbo injectors. Injectors were maxed at 240hp. NA injectors won't make it. Honestly a $2000 budget isn't going to get you 200hp pretty much regardless of how you cut it. I know of several people with builds along the lines of what you have pitched with triples and a cam and those cars put down about 130 at the wheels. If you want 200hp NA you're gonna have to give Rebello $10k from what I've seen of a rebello motor car that I thought was quick. Or you can run a turbo motor, an ecu, and z31 turbo and make 230hp and 275tq. At least that is what my friends car is running (it's faster than the Rebello motored car by the way) That's my two cents from what I have seen from several iterations of friends builds in town since I started into Z cars back in '08 If you want NA power I'd expect to basically throw all of that $2000 budget at paying someone that knows their way around an L head to work the chambers and the ports into shape and I wouldn't be surprised if it took more cash to get the head finished. Regards

TJ, Have you considered talking to Stance about triple adjustables? Bill Washburn just blew the doors off of a bunch of people in the RS Maxi at Climb to the Clouds. He is running Stance custom valved to his specs. He used to post on Nissan Road Racing forums but, I'm not sure he frequents there much anymore. I'm sure he could shed some light on what you are looking for. The coilovers and camber plates I designed up for my Z use the stance cartridges. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pykb-hHPHpA I follow him on instagram so that is how I would get a hold of him. You could probably get to him through youtube as well I would imagine.

Dang, that sucks. Can't say I've seen that failure very often. Didn't Mazworx install the seats? Then again, experiments, science, and stuff...

Dude that is awesome.

Mmm, sausage... Any particular reason for capturing the chain on both sides? Kinda curious what a materials analysis would yield if you sent some chain guide material out for inspection. I remember having to get material composition certs for the ISO shop I worked at making aviation parts.

What class/run group are you going to be running? Just pull up the nasa rule book and read through it. It sounds like you are just starting out so you will most likely start in HPDE1 like everyone else does. As long as you are in DE1 or 2 tires and wheels won't matter. Everybody in those classes is still figuring out what they are doing and getting comfortable with their car.

The wear surfaces are what need to be hard. Ductility and strength/hardness are a trade off. If you have ever messed with carbide milling cutters you will see the difference between how a piece of mild steel breaks versus a solid carbide cutter. A through hardened carbide cutter will cut through all kinds of stuff that is softer than the cutter. But when you apply too much force/stress to the carbide cutter (i.e. you exceeded the ultimate strength) that cutter is going to shatter into pieces without showing you any prior signs of deformation. Whereas you can bend a piece of mild steel around quite a bit before it work hardens to the point of breaking. In this case a through hardened cam is going to be so rigid that you would probably have a hard time not snapping when tightening the cam towers. It's not so much wanting it soft or hard, it is having the right material properties in the right place for the application. Having a hardened wear surface in a non wear region is a waste of time and ultimately money. If you have enough non hardened material cross section in the cam to prevent measurable deformation as the cam rotates and moves the rockers. Then why would the non wear regions need to be hardened? I may have not used some of the material mechanics terms properly (solid mechanics was a couple years ago for me) but that is the basic gist of things. Hopefully some of what I said will help you to think about it from another angle to make some sense of it.

Vintage Spirit can do it. They are in the bay area.

This just keeps getting better. Did machining your own caps also allow you to eliminate the gap between the rocker arms and the cam towers (due to difference in bore spacing) so that those spacers you made will no longer be necessary for positioning the rockers over the valve stems?

I can't believe no one suggested the factory r32 color. Takumi's car is a perfrect example. https://www.instagram.com/takumi_403/

What Xnke said, and the starter is pretty much sitting right where you would want to run an exhaust.

https://www.instagram.com/p/8y4u64rTc7/?taken-by=ultra.heaven Car on left is a late 260 w/ late style Type1. Car on right is a 280 w/ early style Type1 and 240 turn signals. These guys are a better deal for brand new plastic housings. You can even get them in silver plastic. They are probably making them for MSA. http://klearz.com/products/datsun/240z

I keep checking the updates in this thread hoping to see cams... curse you Crane.

The shocks are currently at full extension. If he raises the lower perch any further it will only be compressing (preloading) the spring. These aren't old mcpherson units, (most of) what you are describing is more akin to a mcpherson style: dampen the suspension motion by restricting oil flow through the damper piston orifice.