Cable

1st question.....how are going to be making 500-550 (streetable) hp with your 383, combo details would be great. I ask because I have built several 383's and 406's sbc for customers/friends and rarely they breach the streetable 500hp mark, even after AFR heads and a decent size roller cam. Now slap on a blower/turbo and/or nitrous and 600+hp is like falling off a log. 2nd question.....what are you going to be doing with the car? Drag racing, autocross, etc? If you are going drag racing, forget about the manual tranny. You'll never hook and be able to control your launch, and if your really making even 500hp with a sbc, you won't have alot of low end torque so you have to dump the clutch to get it moving anyway. If you are going autocrossing, the manual is the way to go, but again if you are really making 500hp with a sbc, you'll be lacking the low end to get you out of the turns. If have set your mind to a six speed, look at a used T-56 from a Camaro/Firebird and have stainless or bronze syncros installed during a decent rebuild. Or hunt down a T-56 from a Z06 Vette or Viper. They already have the good parts in them and I doubt you'll break it. Regardless you are looking at $3k+ for the tranny, plus another $1k+ for your clutch, flywheel, and bellhousing. However, if you really built a 500hp sbc, this shouldn't be a huge surprise that you'll need to spend an equal amount of coin on a manual tranny in order to stand up to your motor. Trust me when I say that I know how torque kills parts..... Agreed. But he doesn't want to spend more than 3k and Lencos go for more than that last time I checked.

Thanks, and done.

This has prob been asked before, but where do I buy these Bad Dog Frame Rail kits from? I would like one for my 280z. Thanks!!

The car is engine-less, regardless the shafts wouldn't turn anyway because, as I've said twice before, there is no diff in the car. So the axles wouldn't turn even if the car was running.

I got an idea, give me the stock, re-drilled mustache bar. And when I fab my front mount, I'll just make two of them and give you the extra one.

Let's update the list..... Who has the R230 under their cars now?

No problem Tyson. Do you already have a front mount made? If so, I'd like to see that too and copy/clone it. Let me know the next time you'll be home.

No power tools allowed in the yard. John, come on, how am I going to use a lathe with the axles in the car? I have no way to secure the axles to break the axles nuts. The lower CV is the only thing still attached. What tools? I'll say it again: I can't have ANY power tools in the yard, no exceptions per yard owner. I have no way to secure the axles to keep them from turning as I try to get the axle nuts off. The diff is gone and so are the brakes. How else would keep the axles from turning while I am turning the axles nuts off? That's the first decent suggestion so far. It will be messy, but will do the job. Thanks.

Just like the title says..... I searched for sometime and wasn't able to find any pics of a stock R200 mustache bar re-drilled (4.75" spacing) for the short nose Q45 R200. Basically I just wanna see if the holes are just drilled alittle more spaced out and level with the stock holes, or are the new holes drilled higher, etc? I know that the Q45 R200 has to be spaced forward a bit to keep the rear cover from rubbing on the muctache bar, but that's no biggie. I considered just buying the AZC mustache bar, but I think I could put the $250+ to use else where and just re-use my stock bar. Regardless, it is a awesome piece. Thanks guys!!

I know this isn't the ideal place to ask, but since this could benefit other Z owners I figured why not. Anyway, I wondered if any of you guys have an actual companion flange from a '70-'78 Z car lying around? I am interested in having a local machinist start a limited run of adapters that will allow the use of the stock companion flange and bolt to inter CV's from a Q45/300ztt. This will hopefully be a lower cost option for those who want to do the Q45/300ztt CV swap. The companion flange would be used as a template for the adapters, so even if the splines are stripped out it wouldn't matter because I am only interested in the bolt pattern and inter hub centric locater for the adapters to center on. I have a pair of them currently in my Z, but didn't want to tear it down just to have it not running so I can have the template for the adapters. I am willing to buy one, just let me know how much with shipping to Bakersfield, Ca. 93313. Thanks again guys!!

Thanks for the help guys, and you are correct I needed a companion flange to halfshaft bolt. I wondered if any of you guys have an actual companion flange from a '70-'78 Z car lying around? I am interested in having a local machinist start a limited run of adapters that will allow the use of the stock companion flange and bolt to inter CV's from a Q45/300ztt. The companion flange would be used as a template for the adapters, so even if the splines are stripped out it wouldn't matter because I am only interested in the bolt pattern and inter hub centric locater for the adapters to center on. Thanks again guys!!

Digging up an old thread, but are you still selling these? Thanks!!

Hey guys, I need to get another pair of inter CV's for my R230/R200 CV swap and there is a wreaked Q45 in a junk yard. I wondered if a hack saw blade (or a few) would be able to cut through the axles so I can remove the inter CV's? Since the axles are useless anyway, its not like I am killing anything important. I can't bring power equipment into the yard including air tools and torches. The rear diff is already missing too so getting the nuts of the ends for the outer CV's would be a royal pain. So, same question: hack saw VS Q45 axles? Thanks guys!!

Still selling those? Thanks!!

Bump.....still interested in the R230 bar.....

Here she is: Late model 300zx vented, cross-drilled, slotted rotors w/Toyota 4x4 4 Piston Calipers: Fresh 454 Rebuild: Traction is still an issue with street tires, my neighbors LOVE me...... That was a 1 second blip in second gear. The tires break loose by 2500 RPM.

Ditto. I am waiting to build my next BBC to see if the E85 really comes around. If so I will build a higher compression motor and it will run better with no worries about race gas.

Did you happen to ask about the blue bottle STP "Oil Treatment"? I have often wondered about the levels of ZDDP in them. Thanks!!

That would be awesome. PM Sent!!

That's cool. They are the same length and everything I assume? What is bolt peening anyway? I know the term used for shot peening (like shot peening connecting rods to ork harden, relieve stress and strengthen), but never really knew what the meaning was for bolts. Same? What is the difference between the bolts I already have and the one's for 280zx's? Thanks!! P.S. Thanks for the email Joel, too bad wheel studs and stub axle bolts aren't the same thing .

Hey guys, I was swapping out my old struts for some new one units and disconnected the axle from the stub axle in order to drop the lower control arm. Anyway, I started to get poured on by the rain and quickly stopped in the middle to stay dry. In my haste I lost one of the bolts for the axle flange to the stub axle. Does Nissan still have these bolts available? If so, anyone have a part number? I'd look in the local wreaking yards, but I haven't seen a 240/260/280z/280zx for sometime. Any help and or suggestions is thanked in advance.

I have a temp gauge that rises when its getting hot and cools down when idling, no hills, min load, etc. I also know its working because when it gets really hot it starts breaking up and wants to die. Thanks anyway though.

It was overheating before I changed out the t-stat because I thought that was the problem. The radiator has ZERO leaks. I didn't know that the electric fan was needed after 30+ mph because all the air just moving through it already. I don't know if it is on or not while driving, should it be? I have to check that out.

Hey guys, I know this isn't the ideal forum for this but I figured it was worth a shot. I own a '82 GL1100 Honda Gold Wing motorcycle. I have had it for years and never had any issues with it. Recently though it likes to overheat when pulling hills or and higher rpm stuff. Around town I never have any problems. I have already flushed the whole system, changed the T-stat, checked the radiator for excessive deposits, etc and there is no oil in the water or water in the oil. Basically everything is tip-top. I guess the last thing would be the water pump, but it is a pricey item to buy if it isn't the problem. Any suggestions guys? I really enjoy riding and can't afford a new bike right now. Thanks in advance.