mark

I've been tracking hte part and it seems to be stuck in PA. Iv'e called and been told Fedex lost my part!!! Un real. Stay tuned. Dayz, I have something for you. It will ship soon...

I've put together a few motors to try to save money. Notice I said put together and not built and also said tried to save. It's less expensive for me anyway, to have a competent shop build the motor I hopefully I can get it back in the car without dropping it. I'm paying for knowledge and skill and have come to realize just how much those are worth.

See added info in post #6

I have the tracking number and the part is in route. I can't say thanks enough for your help. Just another example of the type of guys that are on this board. Dayz, can i at least buy a tank of gas for you efforts? Can I ship you a bottle of your favorite beverage? Thanks again.

That stuff would look great on my kids pine wood derby car. 40 bucks for a spray can is pretty steep. The stuff better work for that price. Interesting link Ernie. Thanks.

WOW!! THat is one sweet car. I'm motivated to get mine going again. How did that slow looking porsche in the back ground do? Does Tom want to bring redbird out on 9/11 to play? If so, I think we can swing it. Let me know. Awesome car.

I've had the SLP stuff (clutch PP and flywheel) in my car for years and it has held up very well.

Glad it worked out. Now drive it and enjoy!!!

I cut mine out with some reservation but I needed the space. The car is getting a full cage so I am adding a good bit of the structure to the car. Even thin metal that is bent and flanged can add some strenght to the chassis. I'm not sure if this is the case with our cars but I think it would be reasonable to think it would add some strenght in this area. Hows that for a vague answer:)

I'm sure there must be a handeling quirk with those cars. I bet those guys are the best drivers ever to sit behind the wheel of a car. Just ask them. Idiots.......

call these guys. http://www.carbotecheng.com/main.htm I use there pads on my lt1 s30. It sees street and track use. I have never had fade on the track and they work well om the street. I do have Z32 calipers and ~12 inch vented rotors front and rear on the car. Explain what you want and they can set you up. If you want the particulars of the pad I run, just ask the guy on the phone to look up Mark Icard's account. Good luck

yep

I also like that idea. A link to the garage and photo album on the users name that is beside each post perhaps?

Ross used my adaptors as a pattern and I gave him my measurements for the half shaft length. 12 inches each side. Moser also made my halfshafts. Get a cap for the inner and the outer. I've had the shafts move to the inside also.

check this thread. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=93006 With my springs out of the car, I could move my suspension from fully extended to fully compressed and the 12 inch shaft did not bind. Only thing I can figure is that when the shaft is pointed up (compressed suuspension) or pointed down (extended suspension) that the rotational forces of the cv shaft induce some lateral forces that move the shaft. Just a guess based on when mine would let go.

The end caps either replace the stock end caps or fit inside the stock end caps. THere is a lip on the CV adaptor and the diff flange. This lip will hold the end cap inplace when the cv's are bolted in. I've had mine pop out when driving around town at a very respectable pace and I've had the pop out a couple of times at the track. I'm not smart enough to figure out the forces that cause this movement but 316 inch steel is enough to stop it. To get an idea of what the piece looks like, imagine the inside if the end cap filled with steel. THat's it. I had pics but the computer took a dump an I lost most of my pics. I'll take more next time the car is apart.

Unplug the afm connectors and the connectors to the ecu and spray contact cleaner in them and try again. Good luck

I'm the guy that worked this swap out. My shafts are 12 inches long on each side. Your axel walked out thur the CV end cap and yes it will pull the c clip out and waste the cv housing. To fix this, I make 316 inch thick end caps(friend with a lathe) I have these on all 4 CV's. Since this up grade I have ran track events for several years without any further problem. I thought Ross was supplying these caps with his CV adaptors. I may be wrong. EDIT>>> Ross and I have been in contact. I had an issue pop up at the track that I solved by running the inner stops. This was after our our original conversations on what stops to use. At the time I was just running outer stops. All confirmed by emails. I apparently did not let Ross in on this most important development. (sorry Ross) Sorry for any confusion this may have caused anyone. Get another CV joint and make or have these end caps made. I think a better solution for this swap would be to take the stock Q45 outer CV and cut the stub axel and weld an adaptor to the stock CV to mate it with the Z car stub aqxel flange. I think Miles on this board did this with his setup. A very elegant solution for this swap. I would have reworked mine like this if I had continued to have problems. Good luck, make some end caps and you will be good to go.

Beautiful car!

I do not have the throttle cracked open at all. Specs for the IAC are with in normal limits for the stock pcm. If your idle drops when the ac is on, you have a problem with the iac motor. Pull the iac off the throttle body and have someone cycle the ignition key. You should see the plunger move. If it doesn't move, replace it. Good luck.

If the IAC is open (mine failed open) the car will idel close to 2000 rpms. The opening for the IAC is on the throttle body of the lt 1. On the underside at the front of the throttle body. THere is an adjustment screw that can be used to opent he throttle blades a bit to compensate for idle. The pcm has a range of movement that is normal for the iac. Even with a large cam and ported heads (425+ rwhp) my idle circut works fine. Have you tried to reset the IAC? Are you sure the IAC motor is working? I forget the procedure for reseting the IAC but it involved jumping some wires at the ald plug. Hope that helps. If you can't find the reset procedure for the IAC, let me know and I'll dig thru my old papers.

Are they both like that? It's alot easier to take it apart now than when you have the car back together. How hard is "very hard"? Mine don't spin freely but do ahve a slight bit of resistance each time I have replace rear wheel bearings. What sapcer did you use? The one that came with the stubs or the ones from the strut housings. There are 3 different spacers. Should be stamped with A B or C.

Poke at the frame rails and floor boards with a screw driver and use a magnet on the rockers and anywhere else you suspect filler over rust or body damage. Check the rockers from underneath the car, from the rear wheel well. Rust likes to start back there and eat iinto the area where the rocker meets the rear quarter panel. Good luck! Where in VA is the car?

On the east coast, 2500 bucks for a solid 240z is a good deal. Try for les but I would buy it just based on the battery tray area. You can get another cowl. Check the floor boards and the rockers. If they are good, get the car for sure even if he won't come off the 2500. If those places are solid, and you don't want it, I'll come up and get it this Sunday.

Nothing structural there. Pull it out and mud it. Make sure your filler hose is OK as well as the vent hoses for the tank.