Dan Juday

Clean and tighten all your major electrical connections. Battery, alternator, voltage regulator, GROUNDS, connections in your lighting circuit. Could be that simple.

Ernie, Check those post dates in this thread.

Thanks for posting Mike. There you go, no drilling or filing. Wish those were around when I did mine. I almost pulled my hair out tring to solve that little problem. FYI, the S-W adapter is not a perfect thread match to the Datsun nut. It works but given that Mike now makes this piece I would steer people to the JTR adapter. At $19 it's a bagain.

I was thinking the same thing, about damage to the sender that is. The parts in the sender are soldered together and you likely melted the solder inside when you soldered on the outside. If you have older heads with 1/2"NPT holes then the JTR book shows you how to make an easy adapter with just a drill and a tap. If you have the later heads with 3/8"NPT holes then you want a Stewart-Warner sending unit adapter for the later Chevy heads. It's about $5 at most better autoparts stores. You will have to file down the Datsun nut a little and I believe I drilled the the S-W adapter a little deeper but it is still easy to do. This is better anyways since you dont have to custom modify a new sending unit if your old one ever goes out. Which, it sounds like, it may already have. (shrug)

It would be illegal based upon your intent. But after my resent dealings with the DMV I sympathize. The athorities may never catch it but if they do you're hosed.

Dude, the guy had 10 Z cars on his driveway and his wife didn't leave him!!

Dude, the guy owns three sets of wheels for one car that probably doesn't even run AND his wife hasn't left him!!! That's what we in the real world (married) call a dream wife!

Thanks John and Terry. Your posts help me to understand why we do the mods we do and what to watch out for. Like, "Can you section a strut too much"? I've been reading old posts and new on this topic. It's the next thing I need to tackle on my Z. My car is too low for the stock struts and I've been bottoming out too often. Just to move the discussion a bit from the theroretical to the practical, are we not we limited in what we can do by the availability of strut cartridges? Other than having a boat load of funds and having custom cartridges made, don't we have a relatively small selection from other applications that just by accident happen to fit? I know of only three from reading posts here: Rabbit, MR2, and moving shorter front Z cartridges to the rear (or is that rear to front?). John, in your famous sticky post on this you list Koni part numbers. Are those from one of the above mentioned applications or is that a special racing part? A great post BTW. Unfortunately for us guys that want a more compliant ride for the street I don't know if the lenght's you spec would work for, say, the Tokico blue cartridges. I would imagine that what ever shock manufacturer you chose the lenght would be determined by the application you are stealing the cartridge from. Is this right or are there other factors I need to consider? Thanks for your help. I know this has been done many times by many people on this site, and it's not rocket science, I just want to better understand what I'm doing and do it right the first time.

So, what were you doin'? Fess up, guilty or innocent!!!!

Scarab built turn-key cars and sold kits to convert your own Z. The "factory" Scarab built cars are all numbered and are quite collectable. There were few made and even fewer that have not been farther owner modified. So an original unmolested numbered car is very rare. There is more complete info on Scarab the company and the cars they built on the web but unfortunately I don't have any links. Anybody want to post some?

Not a problem. The rating on the relay refers to the capacity of the contacks, not the current required to power the coil. Relays use very little current to operate. That's why we use them.

I spoke with the GTO/Corvette guy last year, or the year before. The body is a kit for the Z that he widened. It may very well be the Thunder Ranch kit, I don't remember. It is not a Vello Rosa kit for sure. The section ahead of the windshield is the least changed. He has a personal friend with an original 250 GTO that he has taken measurements off. He has done extensive work on the rear to better match the Ferreri. Width, of coarse, is way off. But profile is closer to the Ferreri than the kits for the Z. I didn't look at the car this year, little changes from year to year, it's a llllllooooonnnngggg term project for this guy. I remember looking at the tube frame last year thinking he has made no provision for exhaust at all. He may have modified the frame, like I said I didn't look this year. If not he's going to be stuck with sidepipes or an over the roof job! Anybody see if he had the exhaust on yet?

Here's another shot of the two speed Taurus fan just for refference. I'm pretty certain it's from a '91 or '92. I measure just about 4 3/4" thick. FYI, I am very happy with it. Temperature stays rock steady. I use a two speed thermostatic switch. It runs on low after it comes up to temp and almost never needs to go to high. When it does the temperature drops instantly.

Do the V8 thing. You'll never look back.

I have the Napa aftermarket replacement for the Ford Van with the 360 FI motor. I mounted it with the rubber covered hose clampy like things (technical term) over the rubber sleave that comes with it to a bracket that I again mounted with a chunk of rubber to the body. I've only heard the fuel pump once (other than the standard whine of it priming before start-up) and that was during a vigorous climb up a curvy mountain road. It was $120. Two years later when I did the LT1/Tomahawk swap I went to get the same pump from Napa and they said it was discontinued but a replacement was available from Holley. Guess what? Same pump in a different box. Something special about the new cardboard box I guess because the "Holley" pump was $40 more. Mounted it the same way in the Tomahawk as in my car and again no noise. Tomahawk is a roadster though, so it may be noisier but I can't hear it.

Did mine by the book (except for the 7/8" MC, JTR says to use 3/4", that didn't work). My adjustment on the MC rod is right about the middle. If I didn't shorten the rod the 3/8" it would have hit the pedel arm. Don't know, mine works fine. Are you certain it's bled completely?

Close nuff, eh?

He gets one for originality.

I don't know. I think Pete P. investigated this a while back but I'm not certain and I obviously don't remember the results if he did. Either way the crossmember will catch it if it breaks. And the racket should let you you know something is a miss. The "bolt under the crossmember" solution is clearly effective. All you need is a welder, a drill, a bolt, and couple of scraps of steel. No disassembly required either. Very clever Clif.

That's right. The Lord's a Mopar man. "Don't diss the Dodge"

Actually, to me at least, the back in the drawing looks more like the Jensen Healey wagon.

That would be a pair of wires and a VSS. The Autometer speedo is electronic.

Do a simple search and you will quickly learn the differences. These two lines are incompatable.