savageskaterkid

basicly for the 35 bucks, i got a list of numbers and a swift kick in the ***. If your not a member you can search for cars, and then you click the cars and it says you must register first, then wouldn't you know it-once you register theres not way to look at the cars or search for any. To get a dealers license(I know this sounds stupid) do you have to be a car dealer? or can anybody obtain it.

I messed with the guy and kept asking him how he got my name and email, and then said to wire me half the money he was talking about, then he finnally gave up.

I can't remember which auction it was, but it says that the kit will be made in about 10 months i think, its not made yet, they have an aluminum kit, but the fiberglass isn't done yet.

This is what i've been told, with the exception of using Mr. Washingtons head, I don't see washington in the picture, its old ABE

Does anybody have any experiance with http://www.icarfinder.com I signed up the other night, and feel like i've been cheated. How do you actually get into a repo auction.

can sombody post the pictures, everytime i try and look, the bandwith is exceded, does anybody have these in there temporary folder?

my freind on his jeep doesn't change his driving habits though, his foot is always mashed in the gas, and he saw over a 50% increase. It might also be that the jeep has a horrible combustion design, so that made up for it.

They work, my friends dad has a 88'? jeep grand charokee, and it was getting about 4mpg with a 3 inch lift on 31 inch tires, and when it was put in it got a whopping 9mpg, thats double on that perticular model. They do work, it doesn't really restrict the airflow, it just swirls it for better combustion.

Inline motors will make more torque if everything was the same. In a V motor the force of the combustion forces the torque to be put out kind of sideways. But in an inline setup its all concentrated on going up and down, not up and down, and side to side. Less torque is used to turn the assembly, so more torque is sent out to the wheels.

whoops, i messed up, I meant an aftermarket small block can be bored enough to handle 472 cubic inches, NOT BIGBLOCK

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Honda-Accord-EX-2005-Automatic-V4-4-0-liter-engine_W0QQitemZ4612437091QQcategoryZ6254QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Stock bigblock chevys are Supposed to max out at a bore that would set you to around 614, aftermarket blocks that are bigger built can support upto a 472. My manager is gonna build a 614 alcohal motor for there mud truck, should be pretty stout, his last motor was a 383 alky with between 800-900hp, taking it to the dyno then selling it.

I take no offence to the statements, just throwing things out there. And you are correct that most of the time you wanna goto a dealership for certain things, but the convienence of a lube shop to do little things is unbeatable.

I've toyed around with the idea of a V8 Z31, just because of a slightly more modernized suspension and it is still technically a Z. I like the swap. I certainly LOVE the chevy SS symbol. And I also wonder about the distributor, was that a hard thing to deal with.

I have a toyota, and in the past couple years they have had a few flaws, nothing engine based really, but if you spend money on a nice car, it should run and everything should work the way it was made-i can understand if it was a few years old, but new...... When the van was about a year old we had to replace the power steering becuz of a recall(**** happens with every car) but then the heated seats stopped working, and the tires tend to blowout and wear EXTREMELY fast. And now there is a new problem on the van, it seems as though toyota didn't do a great job on the headlights because if you go into a carwash it is common that the headlights get flooded because the molding wasn't set to well. And our van isnt the only one with these problems, alot of them are quite common. I absolutly love the van, and it does look pretty good for a minivan with 17's and a pretty agressive looking front end. And a comfortable interior. And a great sterio setup. They just need to work on some things.

I know EXACTLY what your problem is, the exact same thing happened on the Z. It only happens when you take Right turns, right? My car would do the same. Your ground is shorting out from your engine(harness). Just goto Autozone and buy a battery terminal-type cable and attach one side to the engine and the other to the frame. What is happening is that when you take a right turn your ground wire(wich is probly stripped, as mine was, hits another stripped wire) and shorts out-depending on if you completly short it or just arcing, it will stay running and your gauge car still work. If you take a corner really fast, it will eventually melt the wire and then you'll have to replace it anyway. It could also be fuel starvation, if I put my old truck sideways when the gas was low, it would take all the gas to the side of the tank, but there was enough gas at the bottem to keep it running, but if you put your foot back in it, it wouldn't go anywhere. Hope this helps..

Don't get anything toyota based, my mom has her minivan, the engine and drivetrain is nice, but they've had some recalls lately with them, and electrical problems. And there choice of tires for there new suspension systems that check and reinflate tires, as well as being used as run-flats have alot of problems with horrible wear. I've only heard bad things about toyota in the past couple years models, all sorts of problems are starting to show up.

Don't get anything toyota based, my mom has her minivan, the engine and drivetrain is nice, but they've had some recalls lately with them, and electrical problems. And there choice of tires for there new suspension systems that check and reinflate tires, as well as being used as run-flats have alot of problems with horrible wear.

the volvo sites said to use volvo p/s fluid or a similar type of p/s fluid. I did use p/s fluid though, at first I was afraid I used ATF, but I didn't. It was squeeky b4 I added some, and then it was perfectly fine. But a day or so after the problem came back, and then it started shaking. Wouldn't bad alignment constantly getting worse, and not just go horrible all at once? But sqeeking is a common problem? atleast thats a relief to hear.

I know that there is a few turbo volvo guys hanging around here so maybe somebody can help out. G/f's dad has a Volvo, the steering was squeeking and shaking. I added P/S fluid, fixed the problem. A couple days later the same problem showed up, a bit worse though. And this time the P/S fluid isn't low. What could it be? Can anybody think of a common Volvo P/S problem that mite cause this? I feel that I may have messed it up somehow, but I'm not sure how.

http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=17 O thank god, they finnally have a spark plug cleaner for diesels, every place I goto says it doesn't exist.

minivans can be fun. I love driving my moms Sienna. Its got a 12" sub in the back, a full JBL sound system-very clear(and the sub isn't for a god-awful bump, but more or less for rock music) AWD 3.3 V6, it hauls ***-I would deffinitly buy a new minivan if i could afford it.

reminds me of an Rx7 for sum reason. That last picture anyway.

Hey trouble, you still lookin for that SB now. I know of a guy that is sellin a pretty decently built 406. Its just a mild motor though-its got about 12:1 CR, and pushin only about 750 crank hp-but with the right tuning it could probly have enough power to get these heavy cars off the line. Its a guy I work with, he actually had it in a 260z that had the tilt front end, and subframed and all sorts of stuff. Ran a best of 10.05, I think he said he'd get rid of it for like 3000-3500, when he was talkin about it, it was just a thought about selling it-hes trying to get pay off sum bills and such. But he tracked down that Z and i think i may look into buying the thing. SBC's are sweet, but the L-series just sounds awesome-finish your project, sounds like its gonna be badass. Use a blowthrough setup, it will deffinitly fly.