savageskaterkid

Why not triple carb bodies(ITB setup) and do a blowthrough setup? It'd still be FI, and have a very old school appeal, with modern FI and boost.

that thing looks AWESOME

thats all I did, punch and tap a hole.

that is an awesome price, I paid 100 for my stainless 3" Scottie piece, granted, that was old, and well used. 100 for a BRAND NEW MSA 2.5" DP is perfect. On a stock T3 would 2.5" to a 3" dp make a big diffrence?

I had the volume up a bit too, and then BAM!!!, scared the crap out of me, that things is awesome. Could I make a suggestion? Don't use Dexcool, I used to use it at work when servicing GM cars, and the stuff is horrible. You can see in reserve tanks where it gets all sludgy, and i've torn a few motors apart that you can see where dex has really takin some tolls with deposits. We have switched to a multi-vehicle extended life anti-freeze that it much better. Its made by prestone, its yellowish/green, and seems to be working great. No complaints on over-heating, and after a radiator flush, I haven't seen any of the vehicles come back sludgey

that header design looks extremely similar to an L28et Z i know, turbo mounted way up front and all. Awesome design, wondering how well the design will work, so is the L28 guy.

those look amazing!!!

I got his number, I could call him up and let him know your lookin, but Mike is your best bet

Car parts, paid just about all my bills upto this point and money that I've owed my parents, o yah, I forgot....CAR PARTS maybe the Z will be running soon-I can always hope.

Thats a givin, its much easier to have the computer make all the adjustments on the fly with ITB's. I just love the carbs.

has absolutly nothing to do with the S20 whatsoever. I like the look of the motor, I think they sound great, they have a nice off-boost pull in turbo form. With some good cams, and mikuni's, I'm sure it would make a nice N/a motor.

Its actually an FI 280Z right now, but I shouldn't have a problem as I have an electric pump good for the triples. A little looking online has showed that the RB25DE puts out about 190hp, I dont' see loosing that much horsepower by going to carbs, that it wouldn't even be an upgrade from the L28. I saw that you could actually use the L28 trans behind the RB motor, but the idea is frowned upon as it won't handle the abuse of an RB25DET over a long period of time. But since this is N/A, and not too much more power then a stock L28, that it should handle quite well for awhile. It would also make it a bolt in affair(cheap) where I wouldn't need a new driveshaft or have to make a trans mount.

This is exactly what I wanna do, a mild punch, and a nice revving motor, mixed with old school cool. It would deffinitly be an upgrade over my non running L28 setup, as someone may be buying the L28. RB25DE's are fairly cheap compared to turbo models, specially without wiring and ECU, it definitly knocks price down a bit.

I'm not going for all out power on this. Take a stock RB25DE, take off fuel injection, put header and carbs on, thats it. No stroker, no engine work, all stock. Maybe cams, thats about it. A header isn't a problem, as I was gonna see if I could just find a flange, or the cheap manifold and chop the flange and use the L header and just tweak it. I can weld stainless, and have access to a welder, so I can do that. I was just looking for the carby intake. I already have carbs, I wanna do something fairly original, and diffrent. I love the sound of a nice RB, but I have yet to hear an N/A one. Maybe I'll do a blow through triple carb turbo RB25. How original, and vintage/retro? But first I gotta get the thing running, then think about boost later.

??? Its one line in, and one line out, with a vaccum port on top. Where do you get two in and one out?

Anybody else know where to get a manifold.

damn, I was hoping this was another one of Aux's regular threads where it would lead to some dumb video, but the truth shocked me. RIP Boyd Coddington

Umm, on this one its not all about max power, if it was, you'd of picked the RB26DETT and called it a day, with a bunch of mods, but instead you picked the smaller motor, "no replacement for displacement" comes to mind. As with the way your talking about turbo is always better, then you seem to be the kind of person who uses this saying alot. I'm not going for all out power. This is gonna be my cruiser. Will I goto the drag strip with it? Your Damn right I will. I'm not lookin for a 7 second car. I want something that will get out of its own way, sound nice, rev out real nice, and have the power to throw me back in the seat. I'm looking at an RB25, so it won't be messing with your "holy" RB26. I've come to relize that I don't wanna try and be the fastest, as someone will always be faster. I want a vintage look, but a modern powerhouse mixed with old school cool. I have a single request though, if all your going to do is bash me in my own thread, then please don't post in it.

This is exactly what I'm going after, it seems like an awesome idea. RB's sound awesome, correct? Triple side-drafts on an RB seems like it would be such a great sound, and look pretty cool. There were N/A RB motors, not all were turbo. You can buy an RB longblock for fairly cheap. I got carbs. I'd just need a manifold, and header or something, and I'd be good to go. A nice N/A RB25(I've seen 10:1 compression online, but can't really verify that) in the Z, with triples would scream, and have bit of torque to light up some tire I would think.

I've heard its a big thing to do triple side-draft RB's in Japan. If so, how come I can't find anything on it, at all. The only thing I find is people who want to do it, then someone bashing them for having a stupid idea. I've seen Rock Auto's site, but they don't really say anything about it, just have a couple pictures. Does anybody know of a place that would sell a manifold or something? Also, when you do this, what do you do with the ignition, seeing as how the RB is a coil pack motor, can still use the CAS without the ecu?

What if I was to cut out the infected section, then rivet the new metal in, and prep, prime it. I've been looking at doing the bedliner to prevent rust. You don't think that if its all dry, that rust might still start to form underneath the bedliner material, do you? I'm not being sarcastic, I really wanna know if it could happen or not.

Had to bring back this old thread as I just stripped the interior to find a few decent holes in my floor pans. I have heard of people just cutting out what was bad and riveting in new sheet metal, is this a good idea if its all sealed correctly afterwards? I only ask because I've considered doing it and was wondering if its a bad idea.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=127595

I'm looking for function. I'd rather do rust repair in a spot one time, then never again. And I know in trucks its fairly easy to clean at the car wash with a power washer.

Well, its been almost 3 1/2 years since the post, how is this holding up? Would you do it again?