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In almost all cases....a motor of a given displacement will breath more air through it the more cylinders it has. How much power would a 2800cc single cylinder make in a Z instead of 6 cylinders. Not much. Like less than half the power. It's all cool. I don't mean to shread your creations. After all this is HybridZ and anything goes. But if your end goal is performance just know how small these pipes really are....

I run those camber plates. They work great and truly bolt right in. No mods. Quality cnc parts indeed. The fronts have torrington bearings for steering movements. And I agree with Clifton adjustments are more difficult for racing but for the street they are fine. In my opinion after installing the noise or ride harshness difference if any is next to nothing substantial. You may be able to still buy the camber plates direct from DP Racing and probably save some money than what MSA sells them for in the complete kit. Here's the link. http://www.designproductsracing.com/Z_Suspension1.html http://www.designproductsracing.com/images/DPR25.jpg Brian

Great work I/C Max! Very unique.

Ok here is the rear bar pic. The spacers are custom made from 3/8 alum plate. You can get a small piece at your local metal scrap yard cheap. Profiled to fully support the bushing with two clearance holes drilled through. They were not difficult to create. Brian

Hey Bartman, After waiting a month finally got the ST bar kit last week (1" front and 3/4 rear early style) and installed it using these tips. Checking suspension movement and looking for binding. Ended up using 3/8 alum shims between uprights and bushings and .06 shims under the bushing clamps. Added the grease fittings too. I'm not running cv's but what I wanted to say is that I feel these tips really did prove to be effective and worth the extra time to do. More than anything it made the car drive much straighter at higher freeway speeds. The rear end is compliant as it was but the car has a more confident feel. So thanks Jon and Johnc for the info as I would have never figured that one out myself. The front I was not too impressed with the bushing clamps. Without shimming these bushings will be over stressed and distort tremendously! Used .10 shims on the front and added grease zerks. Also had to grind down the bar ends to clear the non-sectioned strut tubes while on jacks at full droop. No big deal really. It appears the oem front bar has similar features to accomodate for this, so it might be something to watch out for when installing any aftermarket bars. The front frame rails are still oem but I don't plan to autox the car anytime soon. Heck i'm just happy its off the jackstands. Everyones setup is unique but I hope maybe some of this will help you what I experienced. Brian

It won't blow your motor. The worst it will do is just slow your car down. It looks cool... but get a real muffler.

71 240z here. Build date 1/71.

No bondo, used 2 part epoxy paste. Applied then smoothed over by hand with water (using rubber gloves). The water helps the smoothing of the paste. Allow to cure. Paint is Rustoleum flat black brush on. Looks great on the engine bay area too for those interested. A Very easy to maintain finish. These materials can be purchased at your local hardware store cheap. Brian

Hey Max, Very cool! Can't wait to see it finished. Brian

Maybe the idea is it makes searching a bit easier, more model specific. So anything goes here for S30? Motors, body, suspension etc?

chaosdrifter06, ...Think about it for a minute. You worked so hard as to have your Z rust free, ...Please save it! I'm from Minnesota, we too get the Worst of Nuclear Winters. I know the deal. Repeating others as to drive home the idea here.... No matter how much washing primer process bs, POR and or "rust proofing" it will NOT be able to keep salted water bath and airborne roadspray from killing it while corroding every part, every zinc plated fastener, everything.... Period! Not like over a few seasons, like one winter it will pop rust again and you will be mad at yourself for doing so. Been there too many times.... You can't get the rust proofing in the areas you need it. Not to mention if someone hits you on an icy day. Not to mention you will easily be run over in traffic by 30 year newer FWD drive cars and SUVs. You'll be a sitting duck to say the least. Get in the race, get a winter beater. If it only lasts though one winter, it worth every penny. Even if you have to buy one every winter, worth it. Even if you have to fix the brakes, Worth it. Brian

darius dude your car is sick!

The idea here is that hybrid techonlogy is still in its primitive early stages. In another 30 years or so you can bet major performance accomplishments will have been made. It is a direction worth moving towards instead of depending on fossil fuels completely. For now it does cost the end consumer more to run a hybrid. That reason alone I won't buy one for quite awhile, ...if ever lol. But someday don't be surprizied when your 60 year old V8 Zcar gets its doors blown off by a chinese battery powered hybrid...It's a very possible reality. Brian

Glad you are ok! Get the Ferrari!

Very sweet! Love the black and tan design theme. Brian

I'm so happy I just had to post! Brian

Today finished pics. Brian