buZy

No problem, Try it with both left and right together and seperate. Not to brag but after drumming for 25 years those bad habbits were broke long ago lol.

Nice car indeed. 45k is way unrealistic...But it would be cool if it sold for that much. It would raise the market value for the rest of us. He is testing the market. After all you only need one buyer....It would be interesting to see what he gets for it. EDIT: If he wants 45k he better revist the brakes and suspension lol!

A recent gig.

Hey Deja I found them at the local small airport. There are many businesses in the private aircraft maintenance fields. Do a search for AN5-11 online. There are many pilots on hybridz who may know a source online that can ship to you. They are everywhere once you start searching really.

He better work on his reaction times too..

No, they will not work. Too short. The AN5-11 fasteners are the best in my opinion. This size has the perfect unthreaded portion to engage the DS flange and R200 flange. AN lock nuts are designed to take vibrations much more than standard nylocks and they are reuseable too. The 8mm jtr suggests work, but they are fully threaded in length. In short the minor thread diameter in shear is much less. The OD of the 8mm thread I measured is slightly less in diameter than the unthreaded portion of the AN. AN bolts in general have filleted heads, material spec and a higher quality of thread rolling. I could not get them in socket heads but the hex heads work enough to hold a 1/2 wrench on them while tightening the nut on the backside.

An 5-11

Killer!!

http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_DAT_driveshaft_flange.html What fasteners are best use with this part? A shoulder type similar to oem but longer and sae grade. JTR does not mention using a shoulder fastener. I would think something similar to the oem design would be much stronger. In essence swaping in weaker fasteners for a larger u-joint. Lame. Guess I will just have to go AN and do it right.....

Great info indeed. I removed mine the same in the same manner but cut 90% through the bushing sleeve then "burned" the remaining thin wall section with a oxy/acy torch. Takes a little torch finesse, but it works great! Also having the heat helps peel out the sleeve. One the sleeve starts to peel away from the arm it can be heated to a red hot condition while the arms stays cool and undamaged. Made the job much easier.

Whoa that little car must be a rocket! Very Cool!

Try the ST bar 3/4 rear 1 inch front.

Sounds good. PM sent.

I'll take these interior parts if avaiable. 1/4 rear window parts. Mine are busted bad. If they are in good condition, let me know what you want for them. Thanks! Brian http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=6686082

A girlfriend of mine calls my Z the HMB. "High Maintenance Bitch" because it eats money and still it's never good enough. Very fitting I think. Other friends call it "The Blue Car" usually cause they don't know what they are looking at. I just call it the Z.

Welcome to HybridZ! You have a cool car!

How about using POR and dynamat?

I went through the same thing. Your DS sounds a bit long if it has to be hammered out. You might want to have a shop shorten it about a half inch. Driveline angles, check them. Parallel running axis in the horizonal and vertical planes which relates to the total running driveshaft angle under 1.5 to 2 degress. Also check to make sure the halfshafts are running straight looking down from the top of the car. That the diff is not to forward in the car or to the rear etc. I think the azc MB should have it located properly though. Good luck. Hope you make to Daytona. Wish I was going.

Very Cool! Congrats Deja

Yup that sucks and wrong imo but if her gf is hot, do ya blame her?

Killer!

The wagon is fast in the parking lot...but sure dumb looking on the street.