Bartman

I really don't see much need for a kit; the GEN II mini fits easily. As far as the compressor goes, that is something everyone is going to have to deal with based on their engine choices. For all you guys that want Vintage Air, just do it! There are a few people on this site that have already done it with good results.

You'll be able to find everything you need regarding this swap by using the search function. You can also find swap components and info at www.modernmotorsports.com Search using something like "Q45 LSD"

I don't know if your familiar with Hinson, but they make just about everything you could need to do an LSX swap into a 240SX. Some of it would probably work with an LT1 as well. http://www.hinsonsupercars.com/partsMainS13.htm

My motorcycle is a 94 V4 with over 138K miles and four Mikumi carbs on it. The carbs have never been worked on at all (not even sync'ed) and it still runs great and starts right away every time.

Thanks. It's taking a lot longer, and costing a lot more, than I originally thought...but it's getting there.

Looking good, I don't think I ever saw any pic's of your car before. It looks like we're both around the same stage with our cars...I wonder who will have their car painted first? Glad the tank is working out, I like mine as well...but I do want to change my filler neck install job. There's just so many little things that I still need to do!

It does pretty much fly, but I'm limited now by the size of my tires. The thing about going with an LT or LS injected engine is the additional time for the initial install...you really need to be good at wiring. The good thing is now I can just hookup my laptop to take data recordings and make changes to the program.

I installed a GEN II mini on my LT1 powered 73 240Z and it works great. If you search my posts you can find out just about anything you would need to know about getting it installed.

Now that's a burnout! Congrats, and kudos to the video guy who was brave enough to walk in front of the car in the middle of the show.

Very cool and congrats! I hope you and your crew come off good after the final editing. Sometimes the whining and bickering make the show almost unbearable for me to watch.

I know excactly how you feel. All the time, trouble, costs, setbacks, etc; are all worth it when you get to drive her down the road. I drove mine a little Friday night and I couldn't believe how much fun it was. I still have some issues, but I'm confident I'll work them out eventually.

Amazingly fast...but that thing looked like it flipped a little too easily.

I can't find the LS1 kit on John's Cars site anywhere. The only info I see is his regular kit, which I think is completely diferent than the LS1 kit.

I got the new file from Jody a couple of days ago, and I finally got it loaded up tonight. Man does it run good! From what I can tell the changes are what I thought they were going to be (and listed in my last post). I'm going to have to make some DataMaster recordings, but it sounds and feels great. Many thanks to HybridZ and jbc3.

I haven't heard of anyone putting the LS1 tank in a ZX...but I'd be willing to bet you would have to remove the spare tire well if you wanted to do it.

I used part #16-7110 Water Temperature Sending Unit, 70-83 Z/ZX and part # 16-7115 Retaining Nut from MSA as well as the Water Temperature Sending Unit Adapter from JTR.

I think that sounds like a good daily driver. Honda's have a bad rep because of young people trying to turn them into something they're not; but they are a good reliable means of transportation. The Si that you got is even a little fun too. P.S. - My daily driver is a Honda motorcycle and it's still going strong with over 138,000 miles on it.

Did they work for a while and then stop, or did you never get them to work correcty? If it's like my LT1 PCM the output for the fans is ground, not power.

It looks like Jody will make the changes to my PCM for me, but I think this is the change in both LT1-edit and Tunercat. After he makes the change for me I will verify the settings in this thread. Hopefully this will be valuable to someone else because I haven't found anywhere else that describes how to enable open loop idle in Tunercat. LT1-edit WOT Table - This is the percent TPS that will be required for the WOT bit to be set in the computer when the engine temperature is less than 151 C. This can be altered so that the computer is always in PE mode at idle rpm's (thus O2's are ignored) if so desired. Tunercat %TPS Threshold For WOT Vs. RPM (Low Cool) Table - Table of differential percent throttle position thresholds to enable wide open throttle (power enrich) mode Vs. RPM. (My Cool Thresh for TPS for WOT (HighTemp) is set at 151 Deg C) I'm not sure about the BLM ranges that Jody mentioned, but there is a table in TunerCat called 'BLM Cell RPM Boundaries' and my current settings are: Low 900 RPM Mid 1200 RPM High 2000 RPM

Looking at a DataMaster file I took a while back I see my Lterm Counts up in the 140 range at low RPMs in closed loop and even breaking into the 150's. I'll send you a PM about getting my file edited.

I'm running an LT1 in my car, but I think this could be a potential issue for other engines as well. So let me know if this scenario makes sense in general, and if so maybe someone can help tell me how I can reprogram my PCM with Tunercat to make this change. I have a pretty healthy cam in my engine and I've run into some problems with my idle. The engine idles fine in open loop (with or without the AC on), but it doesn't idle well once the system goes into closed loop. It idles a little low and rough and sometimes stumbles at low RPM. I've done numerous things to try and fix this including replacing the O2 sensors, the IAC valve, and cracking the throttle blades to raise the idle speed. After quite a bit of searching I found someone taling about the same type of problem along with an explanation and possible fix. The problem is stated as being a condition where the overlap in the cam allows scavenged air to get into the exhaust which makes the O2 sensors give a false lean condition. The PCM will then attempt to incorrectly add more fuel. If this is indeed the case, then a possible solution would be to ignore the O2 sensor readings at idle and/or low RPM conditions. One way to do this would be by running in open loop (only up to a predetermined RPM). So does this make sense, and if so has anyone done this?

According to someone over at LS1tech.com they claim the LS1 block weight is 91 lbs. http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1825

Very nice setup, and like everyone else stated the headers look like a nice piece of engineering. Are you planning on doing anything with the inner fender where you made a hole for your turbo to fit? Will it need any reinforcing? Either way good job, and look forward to hearing about your continued progress.

If you want a large selection of reasonable priced rims in 17 x 7 I would suggest getting adapters from Modern Motorsports http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=6&PHPSESSID=5347434c26ee81079c73d0c180014f36. Using www.tirerack.com and a '93 del sol I got returned 112 different wheels that will fit.

Sorry to hear about having to redo the paint, that would piss me off as well! I was thinking of painting just the jambs, underside of hood etc.; off the car and then putting at all back together with foam tape in the jambs (to protect them from overspray) before painting the exterior. Since I'm painting a pearl color as well, I thought this would prevent the problem you ran into. Do you think this plan would work well?