NZeder

you are on the money, the bolt is used only to compress the belleville washers/springs during assembly. I have not taken mine apart and just looking at the housing it looks like the 2 clutches are only their to project the casing and the drums and not for any slip control like a normal CLSD. I will take a look down the axles hole and see if I can see any spider gears. One of the centre has some paper inside it that cam from the packing so I will ,at somepoint, strip this unit down and when I do I will take lots of pics for you guys but don't expect that anytime soon as I currently don't want to do that until I have diff I want to install it into - ie only have gear oil smell once in the garage.

correct each drum does have the spline in them. The 2 that I have a different versions one with takes the type of axles with the C-Clips on the axles and the other is the type that holes the C-Clips with-in the spline. One has the large pre-load spring inside the other does not. I am waiting to find another 4.1 or a 4.4 diff so I can install one of these - however I still need a zed on the road too (or one that has an engine in it) might just have to put one into a mates car and go to the track, once his car is back on the track again too - it is panel shop after a meeting with the armco.

Maybe these will help http://www.geocities.jp/crazy_shift/ballteck.html http://www.kisnet.ne.jp/~ken1gc10/Ball1.htm

I have 2 of them and an OBX but alas my zed is still not on the road so I can't comment on how well they work. I can tell you they are very well build.

Would this thread of use with regards to the tach question?http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=77638&highlight=modified+tach I assume the issue is the older inductive pickup of the 240z tach ie getting a signal from the +tive side of the coil not the -tive like most modern tachs. Anyway if this is the case check out the thread above that talks about how to get the 240z tach to work on the -tive side of the coil (I know that the RB does not have a single coil but most stand-a-lone ECU will have a tach signal wire that replicates this/sends the correct signal). One method is to put the guts from a 280z tach into the 240z housing. Or you can do what I have done and have a gauge guy install a new driver into the tach. Again see the thread above for what was done to my tach.

Ok just checked FAST system I can find the part number but I can't for the life of me work out where it goes from there. Part number is 25080-89903 and it is just down as a temp sensor (we knew that already)

I had 48 webers on my old L3.2 then swapped these to OER 47mm (nice carb the OER - just a new version of the SK which is an upgraded Mikuni) Anyway the TB's I am using are from Australia and are the Pro-Race version which are 50mm at the trumpet, 48mm at the butterfly and 45mm at the manifold end (this tapper will produce more HP ) they are from a company called Speed Technology trading as EFI Hardware. Check out my site if you want to see pics or check out EFI hardware site http://www.efihardware.com They have some nice kit, linkages, trumpets that carb guys might like too. That was a little off topic - I will see what I can find out about that other temp sensor by looking at the FAST parts catalogue for you.

So I take it that was a Taupo - so this coming weekend is at Meremere?

In my case yes as I am running NA (non turbo but I am sure you are smart enough to know that) so my control will be via temp (for cold start), MAP and TPS that is all nice and simple. So I used the Nissan FAST parts catalogue to work out were all the vacuum lines/water lines go given my engine (and spare RB26 head) were already removed from a car I used for reference - Then knowing what little I need for my NA setup I just started removing all of the vacuum stuff - I was not going to keep the vacuum block at all but then thought this would be a good place to get my map from. Re the idea - well I think all mine as I have not seen too many RB26DE at all with DCOE throttle bodies - so this is all new to me and searching on the interweb does not help with DE and DCOE on a RB engine - so I am taking the L28 triples that I know and what lines are required and then just applying that info the RB - this is working fine for the vacuum lines however it would be good to see an image of how the water flows through the RB's blocks and RB26 heads so I can work out what is the best solution when I start to look at the water lines. Again I am taking the KISS approach as without the turbo's a lot of stuff can go. I believe the AAC stuff is just idle control so with out it the setup will be much like a L28 with triples and no cold start chokes = just let it warm up etc then it will idle correctly. EDIT: Ok just done some more reading on the aac valve etc and it is a used to get air behind the throttle butterflies when the butterflies are fully closed or if more air is required for the given conditions. Now as my DCOE throttle bodies that I will be using already have an air bypass setup for setting the idle so none of this stuff will apply to me at all. So I might be different to what you guys are trying to do also.

Well I am still in the process of putting mine back together but here is what I did to the vacuum block that runs on top of the stock manifold to remove the AAC (spider as I like to call it, from under the plenum) First image is how it used to look http://nzeder.net/album_showpage.php?pic_id=171 And after some changes http://nzeder.net/album_showpage.php?pic_id=175 As I will be running DCOE throttle bodies in NA config I have also blocked of the standard injector holes to move the injector location to the DCOE TB's for better fuel atomisation at the expense of economy/emissions which is why the OEM install as close to the head as possible. See here http://nzeder.net/album_showpage.php?pic_id=177 As I am still not 100% sure if I run a power booster or dual MC setup I might use the blocked of centre top of the vacuum block to connect to the brake booster you can see the blank I have installed looking at this pic again http://nzeder.net/album_showpage.php?pic_id=175 I don't have a pic but I have also removed the vacuum lines that run from the intake side under the front cover to the other side of the engine. The water will be simple much like the old stock L26 (in my case) I will only have water going to my heater and back all overs will be blocked off or short circuited but by removing the AAC a lot of the mess does right there when using a standalone With regard to the water - you can assume I will have the radiator connected via the normal methods

depends on a number of factors ie Diff ratio, gearbox ratios and overall wheel sizing.

Not a problem - Due to my suspension mods that I have done I am expecting much heavier steering and as I want to do well in auto-x I think having PS will help a lot. In my case yes I will have to check things more often vs standard suspension setup but then I would not have the good turn-in or handling somethings have to go to make way for performance.

It is my understanding none - as how these units work is EPAS would be the correct term - Electric Power Assist Steering. The rack is the standard zed rack - no changes there. Then the EPAS unit has a ECU that get the vehicle speed and also uses a torque sensor in the column so using these two references the ECU tells the motor how much assistance to apply and thus making the steering feel lighter for the given inputs. The good thing about this setup is when the vehicle is at high speed the unit does not apply any assistance so you have the feel of the normal zed I will know more once I get my kit installed and up and running but incase it does not work as planned ie it is too light I have a PWM circuit I will build to alter the vehicle speed signal so I get the feedback I require. Re the question about extra stress on suspension etc - well it will be there with or with out PS you can get the same results if your have good strong arms and can turn the wheel fast enough with enough torque - so I might not install my EPAS and just visit the gym more

Well if you were in my part of the world - I would sell you my RB30e Complete for the bottom end with a RB26 head for the top end. Head is almost complete just missing exhaust manifolds and turbo's. I am thinking of selling as it is only my spares. I would sell for $1500 USD but I have no idea on the shipping or custom fees.

I have a set of the K-mac units - however my car is not on the road yet. But they might have changed their design a little as new units now go from stock to negative camber only for the fronts with more positive caster that can be added in too. They now make some rears units that go positive on the camber to correct too much neg on the rear of a lowered zed. Also they have a new coil over setup that is claimed to be a bolt on call a coil jackers or the like check their website - email or call them up they are very helpful

That would put you at postive deck height by my calcs so you will need a thicker head gasket. I would PM Greenmoster80 on this forum as I believe he starting building a RB24DET some time ago - see http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=112825&highlight=rb24 If you want to replicate the L24 specs 83mm and 73.7mm (ie RB26 crank) then I think you best look at sleeving a block either a RB20 up or RB25 down as taking a RB20 out from 79 to 83 would leave the wall too thin.

Are you sure the 4agze have a 20mm pin height - that seems too low - you could not fit 3 rings into a piston at that pin height without having one of them going around were the pin is ie the oil ring around or below the pin location. I believe a stock 4age has a 20mm pin but the pin height is 30.5mm I believe the 4agze has a lower pin height by 1mm to lower the CR for the supercharger so that makes a 20mm pin with a height of 29.5mm. So the piston needs to have the pin hole increased to 21mm this does seem to tie up with other threads on Skyline websites when googling RB24's So if the pin height is 29.5mm then you get 121.5 + 36.85 + 29.5 = 187.85mm so the piston is below the deck by 0.5mm

no taller - only the RB30 is taller (not sure about the RD28 blocks) by 30mm - so it does depend on the engine mount kit you have used I assume.

Guys - if you check the vendors forum you will see that __________________ Z Car Custom's-JDM http://www.zccjdm.com P.O. Box #213 Terrabonne, OR. 97760 PH. 541-913-6530 azcarbum@msn.com can assist with getting the same unit I did from Japan for you - see this post http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=968445

Guys as the kit I have is not installed yet - I need to have the body back from the shop. All I can tell you is that the kit I got has instructions in Japanese, the spline where the steering wheel is not the standard Z spline/shaft size so this is why it comes with an aftermarket/momo type boss kit. Re the cost I got mine a while back when the NZD to YEN was not a bad as it is now but in today's market and USD to YEN they go for around $560 USD this is the purchase price then you have to pay shipping etc. I purchased the kit from yahoo.co.jp auction via an agent in Japan so there were his fees - shipping of the unit to him to check and repack then on ship to me in NZ. I know that in UK the Ford Escort and Kit car builders use the Vaxuhall Corsa B or C EPS unit - and I purchased one of these first but it was still sitting in the UK when I spotted the unit from Japan - so I resold the Corsa Unit I had sitting in UK.

There a number of these type setup sold in Japan for the S30. I purchase one of the Japanese kits - it like many of the parts I have is still waiting for the body to return from the body shop. I agree with the above and as I have modified suspension (ready a lot more + caster and - camber) having PS for autox work will help. The kit I have includes a speed sensor so the EPS unit is only helping at low speeds at high speeds it is back to the normal zed rack. Here is some pics of the kit that I got from Japan - including a sample installed into a Zed - there is a youtube video of a guy using this setup on the car shown in the sample pic attached. There is some fab work required and I will sort this out later - maybe a job over the festive season

see here http://forums.hybridz.org/showpost.php?p=810363&postcount=122 I have since sold the mags - and the the car. The mags are now on a 260z which has the larger suspension with the lower spring perches in the front. So the guy had to change the inner shells so the front rims are now 16x8. If he had coil overs of 240z front struts these would have worked fine.

my old 71 240z had 16x9 on all for corners with 225/45/16 the lips were rolled but it was not really required with the 225/45 but I think this was done when the car used to run 225/50. There are pics on this site in the show us your wheels thread. And I can link some pic here if you can't find them.

That is set nice and low - that must help with C of G

Nicely done Mike. It is a shame no one makes a cross flow double pass unit that way both can be on the same side.