dr_hunt

Probably happened at normal highway speed too!

I am still playing with the front end travel somewhat. Any rise in the front at launch due to uncompressing suspension is supposedly not desireable if your trying to tame wheelies. Eventually you have to tune the rear suspension once you get the front figured out as to what seems to be best. One thing at a time or you never know what worked.

Having been building engines for 34 years and having knowledge of the DSM's I can tell you that I have not seen a v8 ford, chevy, mopar experience separation of the main caps from the block except in the early chevy 283's which were weak 2 bolt blocks. Even so the thrust bearing would keep it fom walking. The DSM's eat the thrust and the crank walks to the point where the counterweights hit the block. I have seen that. I have seen fords v8's 302's split in half. I have seen sbc's lift the heads. I have never seen crank walk or thrust failure except when having torque converter issues. My opinion and experience only though.

Chevys, fords and mopars of the v8 category don't experience crank walk. Your thinking of dsm motors.

Looks like you need to stiffen the right rear shock in compression and limit the front end travel. It needs to pick up both wheels the same and not very much to be as quick as it can be. We run 5 clicks harder on the right rear shock QA1's and have limited the travel to ride height sitting still.

Cool!

Depending on the shift kit and who built the trans. The shift kit can, and most do, raise line pressure and have enlarged holes in the separator plate that will allow for quicker shifts which include first and reverse. When the trans is rebuilt performance the wavy steels are often omitted and replaced with an additional clutch or steel or both, sometimes requiring machining of the piston depending on the trans and thickness of the steels and clutches. This also contributes to the jerky feel. So yes, IME that is what normally happens when a shift kit is properly installed and the transmission is properly buit. It is a good thing in terms of slippage, hp handling capability, heat generation, as there is not enough hp and tq at idle to tear anything up. Well, unless your running a blown nitro engine idling at 2800 rpm.

I am not following the logic here. Your going to spend $6000 for a bike to save 30mpg worth of gas. Thats assuming what your drivng gets 20mpg. At $5/gallon gas, that's 1200 gallons or about 24,000 miles of driving. If you get 50 mpg on the bike for the 24,000 miles your going to use 480 gallons or another $2400 worth of gas to go the same distance. All in all you could spend $8400 for gas and get to drive 33,600 miles if you keep what you have. Also the bike is not a particularly good wintertime or foul weather transportation. You still have to have the car, still pay insurance, now add bike insurance, accesories, helmet, etc, etc. If you finance it, its even worse. Doesn't make alot of fiscal sense to me, but it is your money. It's like having a wife and mistress at the same time. Your going to enjoy it, but it'll never work out in the end.

The rust isn't that bad, the drivers side rear lower quarter behind the wheel is bent. Rust as described, pretty minor really. The frame rails are good, under the battery is good also. I have parts cars, so the one front fender is replaceable and I could cut out the others and replace those pieces as well if I wanted to. But I don't really want to get into body work at this point and time. I think mainly just want to get it running and drive it.

Well, got the roof up finally. Been awhile. That makes a ton of difference in the rain and heat we have been having. Now to work on the sides. Probably be here and there as I want to work on cars now, so cars it is. Besides, I can put up the walls by myself where as the roof required and additional hand to run the backhoe to raise me up and down.

jbk240z, jason had this 240z rusting away in Louisiana. He was generous enough to donate it in the hopes of it being used. So, a road trip later and Doc picked it up last Tuesday. For power it has a 4 barrel carbed 4.3L V6 chevy with a th700R4 trans. We just got finished buttoning up the engine after tearing it down for inspection. It was a rebuild and has .030 over pistons, .010 rods and mains. All looked ok, so we bolted it all back up. I'm going to build a Q-jet carb for it and we will install it over the weekend. This is going to be a daily driver. I know most of you are going to wonder if I quit taking meds and am not thinking clearly about powerplants. Bottom line is that the boy will be driving it mostly, not me. Also I have a 327 sitting around doing nothing for later on.

I ran a 800Hp BBC in front of a stock th400 in my '33 dodge mudbogger without any problems. I think your builder is selling you parts to make $$$.

He's right, they are not the best choice for heads for a big inch motor. budget heads would be some cast iron large ports like the dart iron eagle 230's. The best would be AFR 215 high port eliminators if staying with 23 degree or even better would be some 18 degree or 15 degree brodix heads. It's all a function of money. Keep in mind that 400 hp in z is quite a all around package.

Nice!

In the same scenario, Kalitta would have died even if the race was 1/8th mile and the shutdown was 3/4 mile. 250mph will kill you just as dead as 320mph, it's just physics and what the body can withstand. It's not the speed, it's the sudden stop at the end that will get you. Barring a fire or explosion of course. The navy has successfully used safety nets to stop jets at 200 knots+ on carriers for years. I wouldn't doubt that the same technology is adopted by the sanctioning bodies and paid for by increased ticket fees to watch.

Yes, it's a holset pro 52, 71mm turbo. Intercooled and TPI so it fits under the stock hood, PG, 9 inch ford with a detroit locker, tubbed. You know street car. Engine is a dart block, eagle 3.5 stroke crank, 6 inch carillo rods, JE pistons, AFR 220 heads, custom hyd roller cam. Hoping to get about 500rwhp on pump gas and alot more on race gas.

I have to agree with hanns, I have twins, blow through, on my monte and now that I am doing it all over again I'm going single and efi with megasquirt in the new z.

Depending on what distributor your running you won't be able to get 36 or 37 degrees without more initial advance. The MSD distributors only advance 28 degrees max, the GM HEI is about 22 degrees. I don't know about the mallory distributors and how much they will mechanical advance. Under WOT you get no vacuum advance.

He was a legend, a wonderfull person, great comedian, and has a unique way of looking at the world. The legend is gone and there is nothing to replace him with. He is missed.

Oh, that sucks big time. I wish someone would do that to me. It'd be wonderfull to see how far down the road they get before they get double tapped.

Probably a good idea.

An old man told me once, "If they don't pay your bills, then who cares what they say." Well, I don't pay your bills and you can take my advice however you like. You may be some kids savior, that's how I look at it. Do whats your nature from the heart. The mind has a tendency to rationalize things differently than your heart. I've seen some remarkable things happen with adopted kids. How to go about it I don't know, but you'll be fine and some kid will be lucky growing up with z cars!

No

I haven't had a problem, never heard of your problems untill now. Perhaps you should have taken it up with an admin prior to posting. Sometimes there are two sides to a story and it's not fair to hear one side. You may be in the right but we need to hear the entire story to make judgements.

Actually it's the opposite, if your piston is below deck .016 you would add that to the compressed thickness of the gasket. In your case to achieve desired quench you'll want to go with the metal shim headgasket IMO. Spray with copperkote both sides and install. I believe that it's around .025 compressed so you'd be at .041 piston to cylinder head distance.