dr_hunt

Glad you cleared that up.

What a dumb A$$. I can't believe that one, I thought I'd seen it all.

Well, finally finished up the roof joists, so now can start putting the sheet metal on the roof, then the sides. Getting there.

I ran the crane gold race rockers under stock steel valve covers. You have to clearance them with a ball peen hammer unless you use the short locks. You might use two gaskets if you have clearance with the AC.

It's not that the crank needs balancing IMO as much as it is the odd firing order and the effect that has on crank twist. Obviously a low HP will have less of that than a higher hp engine will.

Looks geat IMO.

The milk crates holding up the car just aren't doing it for me STONY!!!! and by .036 and .038 do you mean .0036 and .0038? Just wondering.

Aw shucks, I'm out of popcorn.

Yup, it isn't really a money making deal when you start with something that rough and end up with something that nice in the end. As for the "other" cars don't mention them. The satisfaction of building one, driving one and just owning one is not somethng you measure with $$$. IMO of course.

I wouldn't move but the time and effort arguing with a government entity and a towing company will far outweight the money spent to get the car back IMO. Kind of like arguing with someone who has a huge ego and can't be wrong. Better to just beat your head against the wall repeatedly.

Right on Mark!

Cool!

Wow, those are super, super nice!!! Really like them!

Made alittle progress. Putting up the c-purlin for the roof, have them all made already, put up more this evening when it cools off. Going to play golf at 2PM. This is what powerglide parts look like. Roller tail shaft housing, pro tree transbrake, vasco turbo spline input shaft, 10 clutch high drum, steel hub, kevlar band, master race overhaul kit. I had the aluminum deep pan already, so now I need to machine a reverse piston and put it all together. I'll take pic's later in the week when the boy and I get started on that. So, this trans will be built to handle 1200HP and is easily done yourself for those of you who choose to run PG's.

I think the point is that a machine shop can tell you it's done right but you'll never know unless you check it yourself and if you don't have the tools or knowhow, your up the perverbial creek without a paddle and all your $$$ is going down the drain cause you'll do it all over again. I can't tell you how many times the machine shop has screwed up, just ask grumpy, I'm sure he'll chime in. All I can say is you have to check it yourself so YOU KNOW IT'S RIGHT! It pains me to see how many members on here get shafted and how much $$$ and aggravation go with it.

Well, uh, that's pretty straight up now don't you think! Nothing like the naked truth stony.

Everything, wow, must share the techniques for using plastiguage for everything. I've used it when there was nothing else. But mostly I use bore gauges, inside mic's, snap gauges, outside mic's, depth mics and the like. They are truly indespensible items that take some time to accumulate due to cost IMO. You can pick them up at flea markets and some auctions, just make sure the standards are included. Sounds like big domes in that bad boy and alot of fun!

Contrare my friend, it is so much more critical than you imagine. Everything is different, and has to be checked to ensure correct fitment. When doing strokers, pistons, crank and rods are usually all custom. Just because it says custom doesn't mean it's right and will work. Piston to valve clearances, crank to block, etc, etc. It can be alot of work depending on the motor and the amount of stroke increase.

Where did you get the car or motor from? Chances are that it needs everything to be correct. Might as well start off with another engine IMO. It is so sad to see members spending hard earned $$$ for results like that. Here in town a friend with limited knowledge paid $3500 for a 383 crate motor. It lasted 2 weeks before the oil pickup tube fell out of the pump and spun a rod. Took it apart, it had circle track claimer pistons, stock 400 rods, 30/30 stock 400 crank and some L98 aluminum heads. Surely not $3500 worth of parts. I built a 383 for my paint and body guy and it boils the hides off that '81 camaro with a th350 auto and some 4.11's. I had about $2500 in it, but used his dart sr torquer heads.

That was with the AFR 180 heads, it made about 62 less hp with the vortech heads so around 408hp. The brodix heads would make more power in a similar curve to the AFR's so the tq and hp would probably move up in the powerband somewhat. The ideal combination would be to run alittle more compression, alittle tighter LSA and get the peak torque in the right spot early on in the rpm range IMO rather than the 110LSA used in that test. There was another thread on this same subject earlier but the author was wanting to go 383.

Considering it's a NA L6 powered car those times are amazingly fast. If it had comparable equipment to any of the other cars mentioned, he would probably beat the pants off of them hands down, he must be a very good driver.

WOW! Congrats!!!!

Not that I'm aware of. Even the early bronco 9 inch is really too wide. For a solid axle you'll be looking at 40" to 45" wheel flange to wheel flange depending on tubs and wheel width you'd like to run. Like Braap said, stock is pretty good for the HP level your planning to run, which is a basically pretty mild build engine wise but should be a screamer on the street.

Your all wrong, Yup, all of you! The problem it that it's not yours! :lmao:

Well, from experience I can tell you that if you leave it in fuel bowls for say over the winter, it'll eat the crap out of them. Fuel fittings are hard anodized already and I've never had a problem. I don't leave alcohol in my fuel system longer than a day unless it's a 2 day or 3 day event. Just my opinion.