dr_hunt

That's not broke, it's called full auto!

Well, the z is hardly stock nissan. But it's not wild IMO, I built the engine, trans, rear end, fabbed the cage, dash and assembled the car with alot of help from my boy and rightly so, since it's his car. I think there is a limit to what the z will hook in terms of HP. I think 1000Hp is too much for a stock type z to be able to plant. I think a single turbo putting down 800HP to the tires is more than anyone would ever need on the strip or the track. I keep getting wilder by the day I think, I'm not sure anymore, but when people start seeming normal I start getting concerned.

Naw the whole world is going straight to hell in a handbasket IMO. It's just that there are still good people in the world, like here on hybridz. I'm just fortunate enough to live where most everyone is old skool.

Uh Duh, That's freaking funny!!!!

LOL, a new smilie is born!

Well, there is alot more to it than that, but you want to be comfortable, you want to hold the weapon the same way each time, body in same position each time. Have both feet planted firmly on the ground unless shooting kneeling or prone. Different guns like to be held differently, some like you to squeeze them to death, some like a firm hold, some don't want you to touch them at all. It just depends. Breathing should be slow and steady, indicating that your body is at rest for best results. The idea behind holding your breath is to minimize movement and pressure on the back of the rifle. If your shooting offhand you will find that a heavier rifle will be less affected by muscle contractions, breathing, etc. That's why mine all weigh 15lb or more. Recoil is a big issue for accuracy, can't have any IMO if you really want to be good on a consistent basis. If your shooting offhand you may find it alot easier to let the sights move onto the target rather than trying to hold it on the target. This allows your muscles to move, eliminating jerkiness. Try holding just above the target and allowing the sights to come down to the center and touch it off as they are at the bulls eye. Pistol I always hold on the top of the breath, good trigger is paramount to good accuracy in either pistol or rifle. IMO any trigger pull in excess of 2 ounces will not yield you any accuracy especially at distance. I have jewell, canjar triggers on my rifles and on all my pistols, they are custom done very light.

Well, it'll have to wait until I get home to take a picture and post it. But 5 shots in one bullet hole should suffice. It was done with my custom Sako 6.5 x 06 using 50 grains of Rx 22 powder, Rem 9-1/2 primer, win case, sierra 100 grain HP. The gun weighs 17lb, has custom laminated walnut stock, Douglas 26 inch barrel, Canjar single set trigger and is topped with an aged Leupold 16x scope that was used to sight in tanks by the military. I've also got a 5 shot at 500 meters with the same gun and different load, that measures under 3.5 inches. I've shot several groups that are under 10 inches at 1000 yards with that gun and one group of 5 inches with the 6.5x300 weatherby mag built on a Rem 700 action with a 30 inch Hart SS barrel. You can't beat the ballistic coefficient of the 6.5mm projectile until you get into the .338 and plus calibers, but then you can't sling a .338 bullet at the 3500fps velocity that the 6.5x300 can.

That speedglas is nice, I think I need one of those.

Pontiac rods are junk, must go with eagle forged h beams if you want it to live and keep the rpm's down. I have a pontiac 400 sitting in the floor, great HP producers!

That's really nice!

The only thing that really really alarms me about your build is "stock, stock, stock" connecting rods. Get them resized and fitted with ARP fasteners if you do nothing else. Picking a matched set of rods is important as well, I don't know if those books cover how to do that but you'll need about 3 or 4 sets of stock rods to choose from and pick a set that has small balance pads on both ends. That means that they have more "meat" in the beam where it belongs. That applies to all manufacturers rods, nissan, ford, dodge, chevy, etc. Stock heads of any type don't flow that great with lifts over .500 but you want to be as near that as you can. 230 duration at .050 isn't that big of a cam, will have lope, sound cool and run good. Single pattern cams work ok, depends on what you've got. I run a single pattern in my 9 second z. Tighter lobe separation angle or lobe centers will work better with your combination IMO. Isky makes a hydraulic 284 cam, which sports 230 duration at .050 and .485 lift with your rockers that'd work pretty good. LSA is 108 so it'll lope pretty good. Run that with a manual or 2500 stall in an auto and you'll enjoy it.

An old shooting buddy in Wyo. was kind of poor. He had a 15 year old kid that wanted to rope and he had crap for a horse and no saddle, but he wanted to try. Kurt Jackson was his name, big Kansas boy, haven't heard from him in years, he worked for me for awhile. Anyway, he sold me his prize .222 remington so he could buy his boy a saddle for christmas. I gave him $500 which was more than the rem 788 and scope was worth back then. I put it in the closet and never shot it. About a year later he asked if he could buy it back. That was the "deal" so I sold it back to him. My first wife was "pissed" cause I didn't make any money on the deal. She's gone and I'm sure if I could find him in Montana, it'd be just like old times. Same with my painting buddy Peter Chavez, he comes and pawns his paint tools so he can get drunk. But when he needs them he always comes up with the $$$$ to get them back. Too funny! Then there is Brian, we trade back and forth, let him have my Dana 60 front end for basically nothing and then he gets me into mud racing, besides fixing all my diesel stuff. Heck of a guy. Nope, one of these days the world will "wake up" and realize that people are what make up the world, not "money". I'm in it for the people, I don't know about the rest of the world though.

I've done that for friends before for 0% interest, they have always bought their things back. I've loaned money without collateral too, that almost never comes back! Nice car, wouldn't mind owning it myself!

Wild? All stock front suspension, NA motor, not backhalved, so hardly wild, besides it's not mine. I'm going to do some mods here pretty quick, shave alittle weight, redo things, I think it'll do 10.20's here on motor and maybe 9.20's at sea level.

Yeah, the strut towers, IIRC it's 36 inches outside turbo to outside turbo. Then the exhaust ends up being a PITA as it interferes with the fenderwells too. Since I was planning then on getting a TIG, and now that I have one, I'm thinking single turbo, simpler plumbing (just ask silicone boy) and overall, just alot less hassles.

I built a buick straight 8 once. The pistons had to be custom made in California, by Ertel I think IIRC. the rods in those are wimpy and long. The crank stroke was something like 4.5 inches and the bore was ridiculous, like 3.5 inches. I think the max rpm for those is somewhere in the neighborhood of 3500rpm.

That place is simply amazing, never seen so many deer inhabit one area like that. Basically it's an oil field, combination of forest, BLM and state lands. We hunted in the forest area. The deer are accustomed to vehicle traffic and since there is soo much traffic, there are no mountain lions or sign of them anyway. There are very few elk as well, probably for the same reason. But the deer abound. Literally every day we'd see 200 deer and some 20 bucks per day just driving down the roads. We walked to some inaccessible areas and Bryce passed up shots at some really nice deer, but ended up taking a smaller deer cause he was waiting for a big one. But that's the way it goes. Deer jerky production starts next weekend.

Nope, won't fit in the z. Tried, but it's just a no go.

I'd of gone more cubes myself. 406 isn't bad, but I think I'll bo 414 or 421 here pretty quick. Yeah, If I had all the money I spent on motors back, I'd go aluminum V8 block like brodix, dart or rodeck.

Maybe alittle, We'll be about halfway there, just east of navajo lake. Uh, you up yet?

Me and Bryce are going deer hunting in the much coveted Unit 2B up by Farmington, NM. I hope he bags a big Wun! Pesky widdle deer! I will take pic's.

Nealio, you've gone and done it now. You'll be broke, in the poor house and craving more speed. I hate to tell you but your gonna be addicted now. Sorry for the bad news.

Yeah, you can't ignore that, Cast cranks don't weld good IMO, so I'd ditch the crank and get another. IMO you can't just throw in a used crank either. The journals will have to be mic'ed and the bearing clearances will have to be checked. I'd resize the rods for optimum crush and turn the crank too.

His had 16g stock and with a manual boost controller he was able to get 24psi, but it never really gained anything it seemed like to me except fried the motor. Keep in mind I lost in a street race to this guy, (that's how I met him) in the monte when it was a 9:1 motor on BFG TA street tires. At the track I ran 13.30's he ran 12.97. I bolted on some slicks and went 12.58, he changed turbo's and went built motor and went 12.0. I went built motor and went 11.70. Now I built his motor, went stroker and then I went TT on a 350 instead of the 406 which is now in the z. It never ends!

Yeah, those bearings are shot, too much dirt was in the motor. Cleanliness is next to godliness, keep that in mind. That block has some eyebrows at the top of the cylinders from what I've seen in the video, maybe not, but that's what it looked like. Eyebrow where the hone didn't touch some of the cylinder due to excess wear. I wouldn't expect that combination to last all that long, even with new bearings. IMO, it's better to wait, save the $$$, bore, use new pistons, rebuilt head, with valve job, guides, springs right, then go together. I think you'll be much happier in the end if your tune is right. My. $0.00000000000000000000000002 worth.