dr_hunt

zoddinlr, frprnfd on yrh hrsfd. That's code Im sure you understand, but yeah, depends on what heads you end up selecting. I believe the AFR 210's are standard valve spacing, same as the edelbrock performer rpm's. The 220's and 227's however are not and require offset stud girdles so the shaft rockers would be different as well. 195's would be a restriction on a big inch 434 motor but the new eliminator heads might be fine for a 406. It has been said before, plan and engine with the right components and build as much motor as you can afford, you'll never be sorry if you do it right and in that fashion. Your Hp goals are not that lofty and are attainable NA with the right parts. The more HP you seek the less manners you end up having.

Not necessarily, if you go AFR's depending on what head, they have different valve spacing. Jap Tin says and it's true, shaft rockers are the most dependable system available!

circle track racers use a restrictor washer, several sizes available. Muffler, definately.

checking quench and piston to valve clearance.

Tools, can't get enough and never seem to have the right one. Get some modeling clay while your at it, you'll need that too one of these days and they are in the same section of walmart.

Since your car is riding on rubber, there just no way your going to ground your car to anything except the battery which will go "boom". This thread isn't going anywhere and I'm about ready to send this to the tool shed for lack of anything z related or of technical importance for the everyday person.

You don't, you check for pushrod clearance and then snug them by hand and try a rocker arm on them and get proper alignment while retaining pushrod clearance. Use a scribe to mark the right position in case it moves when you torque it. Manley makes and adjustable set of guideplates if worse comes to worse, although I've never had a problem in the past.

Advertised duration has little to do with overlap, overlap has much more to do with lobe separation angle and duration at .050. Split duration cams are often used in turbo applications, doesn't mean that they have overlap, just more duration on one lobe or the other.

Sounds like a 60-1 turbo to me. Pretty good turbo, for up to 600HP depending on housing and trim. A good 500HP anyway.

It's a great place, have fun, joke with others, gain information, share information, etc. All we're asking for is alittle help if you have it to spare, don't put yourselves out or anything. But seriously, anything is appreciated.

I think the carb will be in late next week. THe starter gave up the ghost also, I have to do basic carb adjustments with the hat off, then assemble the intake system. Time now to fab the exhaust, wire in the greddy and make everything look nice while I'm waiting. The DSM engine is ready to install, what a nightmare that has been, 6 bolt block, 2.1L dodge D50 crank, 7 bolt front timing components, 6 bolt lower pulley, none of the timing marks line up correctly except for the cams, he had non-adjustable cam sprockets, sans balance shafts, but it's pretty close, within 1 degree of being spot on. After that I'll get the monte out the door and hopefully make the last race of the season, just to see what it does.

Oh, that sucks big time! He's been on the forums of late talking about getting his car going right. This is soo sad!

He didn't die, so now SuperDan makes his life a living hell.

Norm likes it, that's all that matters!

I got to thinking about your mods and suggestions and then I got to looking at the carb I have. It was obvious that gale banks had modified the carb passages and the jet sizes that you were running are way too rich for this carb. There were some other things I didn't like about the carb as well, electric choke, etc, none of which are condusive to making air flow well into a carb, even under pressure. That was echoed by Roger as well. The gale banks system is mostly a street system although this kit was "race only". I was impressed by the fact that C&S carbs on engines are netting over 5hp/cu inch! That is alot more than I've ever seen on blow through carb applications. 750 might work fine, I know alot of people are using them, but I would think from an airflow standpoint the 850 would work a little better with less pressure drop across the venturi's. That and the fact that it would seem logical that the fuel curve would be easier to control. The aerosol booster is smaller in area than a normal booster and their carbs are wet flowed vs. dry flow for most others. The throttle shafts are double o-ringed and I've always found great power with the aerosol billet design. But at $1100 a pop, they ain't cheap, but they do come with a 30 day money back guarantee, no questions asked, so I don't see how you could go wrong. On my NA motors I picked up a couple of tenths just changing carbs from an alky 750 to an aerosol billet 900 alky. So, I'll give it a try and see if I can squeeze 1000Hp out of this one. If so I'll be happy.

Get out of town! Really? If they are that hard to find PM me, I have one.

Don't have any vacuum advance. 22 mechanical, 18 initial, pulling 1 degree per lb of boost to start with.

Mike, did you want change back? Thanks, we all appreciate it!

Well, I called C&S today and talked to Roger, he's the owner, about the blow through carb setups. They have the fastest blow through carb cars in the world. A 522 cubic inch BBC making 2700HP and a 356sbc making 2000HP! These guys are cutting edge IMO when it comes to carbs. The problem with my carb from their experience is that Gale banks makes it so that it's pig rich so you don't blow motors and all most others do is jetting. Sound familiar, kind of like what my problem is. I talked to him about drilling a hole in the butterflies to improve off boost afr and air flow, but he says that's just a crutch for not having the fuel curve right in the first place. It'll work, but it's not optimum and affects driveability off boost. Anyway, they say that just jetting the carb will get you 70% there, the metering passages in the power valve circuit will get you the other 30%. They modify the powervalve passages to increase flow as boost increases, which always keeps the AFR's perfect. They claim that the AFR will not bobble more than .5 from off boost to full boost if you log it. They are using a 0 power valve which only comes on at boost, they tailor the fuel curve in the primary side to run without boost and use the power valve to enrichen the primary side for when the carb is under boost. The secondary side is tailored to just boost. The whole carb is tailored to your engine/car/trans/converter combo. Hanns, they also say the 750 is too small for any boost over 14psi and they recommend an 850 for anything over that up to about 20psi or so. They claim they can pick you up some free HP if your using a 750, you might think about giving C&S a try. Apparently at high boost levels the 750 will produce about a 2psi drop in pressure, so if you think your boosting 17 your only getting 15 into the engine. Another 2 psi might get you what you want. Anyway, I bought one today, I'm tired of screwing with the gale banks modified holley since they screwed with the metering passages and have it so pig rich. I'll sell it on EBAY!

It was $3175 with all the consumables. It works freaking awesome! I've been practicing on .134 tubing getting it down, before I move to stainless. THe HF start is truly amazing, the balance and hz controls do wonders with aluminum, makes nice welds on aluminum. I ordered more tungsten, lanthanated, and some more pyrex cups. I've found that while you can see through them, they don't help welding that much, but since my torch is set up for those I'll keep using them. Truly for the home guy this is a super neat machine. The water cooled torch is awesome too, I've never had one of those before.

:lmao:

Really? I think I'd be less worried about what he has and more concerned with what your going to get.

I got to looking at the carb, the butterflies have definately uncovered the transfer slot. I'll drop the jets, drill the blades and see what happens. If all else fails, I'm going to buy a C&S aerosol billet blow through carb.

It is.

They yanked it, and before I got pre-approved. They fixed the security hole, what the scammers try to do is "contact info" for an ebay member so that they can get your email phone, etc. But that didn't work for this guy. There will be a new angle sooner or later.