dr_hunt

Good info, but this is what I get when I click your link "Sorry, this GeoCities site is currently unavailable."

Ok guys, this is an attempt to put together the different ways of installing a 9 inch or any other solid axle under your z. The boys z has ladder bars and is not tubbed, still has factory frame rails and is a 260z. I'm not sure how this will apply to other z's but I'm sure it can be done. I'm working on the drafting in ACAD to put it into a pdf format and will post that when it's done. I'd like all others that have put a live axle to input pictures, description and measurements into this thread so that we can add it to the differential info. This z has the rear strut towers shaved as can be seen in the below photo, however I don't think that is necessary. ________________________________________________________________________________ Ok, so this car also has the 4 inch channel frame reinforcement, which is key to a ladder bar install. So in this case the ladder bar is attached via a bolt through that 4 inch channel and the stock z frame with a grade 8, 5/8" bolt. Nut is on the other side of the 4 inch channel and is spot welded to the channel. The floorpan is windowed to allow clearance of the ladder bar for movement throughout the range of motion of the rear end. Inside the car and under the seat that "window" is boxed in with 1/8" plate steel to the bulkhead behind the seat so it's completely isolated outside the car. This car is sans the wheel well and stock gast tank, but it does have a fuel cell instead. I'll edit this as soon as I get the axle flange to flange dimension off that car and some pic's of the coil over shocks and that mount. ________________________________________________________________________________ In a tubbed car rytherwr used the following dimensions; axle length flange to flange 46.5 inches BS of wheels 5.5 inches 29x17x15 M&H tires with 13" of actual tread witdth. __________________________________________________________________________________ Some Links http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=2121 http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f127/bjhines/V8%20240Z%20project/roll%

Not that big really, 29.5x9x15's. Yup, only 9 inches wide! :lmao: Some alcohol would be nice I think and maybe a file. Oh, those probably aren't on the approved list huh.

Like mike says, women are a dime a dozen ask 280zforce.

8.56 should be in the 160 to 175 mph range. No way with that soft of a launch IMO.

Something about that video doesn't ring true. It didn't launch that hard or rpm like it did in the burnout. It might be that the time was the 1/8th not the 1/4.

Close, but the pinks drivers door is still on the pinks car which should be headed to SuperDan soon. Mine was jersey satin black also but more original than the pinks car, faster door too. The DSM is one awesome motor would make a neat hybridz if one were to stuff that in one. They make an adaptor plate for a chevy trans to convert them to RWD!!!

More pics are in my photo album under members gallery. There's some vid links on here for SEZ 6 I think. The DSM again eh. Well, that little DSM is getting tuned today and going to the track tomorrow afternoon running 118 octane race gas and 35lb of boost. We'll see what it does. I got to drive it the other night and it's a solid 12 second car at 14lb boost. Those cams and stroke really made a difference. Well, that and I did alot of port work as well for the bigger valves. To bad you live in Kentucky! Now the body shop guy just called and he wants me to build him a sbc for his camaro. Love it.

Wow, it's now actually inside and they are working on it. He says it'll be painted by next week. Hmmmm, but he said that like in March also. We will see. This is what it looked like before when it was outside.

That is hauling buns. Love the mistake kill, I mean mistang kill!

Get an LSD in that thing and it'll be in the 11's for sure.

You know if you all would donate some $$$$, maybe we could get a backup gen to compliment the battery backup we currently have. I say all you addicts donate! Uh, that means now guys, you know you want to.

406 ci gen 1 sbc, PG trans. I'd love to drive the boy's z 500 miles, but then I'd have to change valve springs.

I don't know if you get off that easy. What do you think crazy z cole? I've heard of butchering a name, but, uh, that's definately a new one. I think he should have to donate to hybridz, what $20?, $50? You being one of those pesky admins that can vote him off the island and all.

That is what I run. Need bigger primary size though, time to make some headers!

The AFR's and S&S Long Tubes work great, but don't clear dart blocks. Just FYI.

That's funny!

Reloading is a great way to relax, save some $$$, (well maybe if you shoot alot), and learn something new. However, with that said it can and is inherently dangerous. The main thing you want to do as a beginner is choose a powder that almost fills the case so you don't double charge the case with powder. I've seen double charged loads made on a dillon!!! A dillon isn't for precision reloading, just mass production IMO. Yes I have one too, but I don't load my accuracy loads with it simply because it won't do the job. I started loading back in the early 70's with my dad loading shotgun with paper hulls and wads. If it can be screwed up, I've probably done it and there is alot you can screw up. Things like crimp, case length, light powder charges, too much case lube, etc, etc. can ruin your day or even cause severe injury. Load with someone that already does it and you trust first is my suggestion if you happen to decide to do that. Oh, and keep a log book.

Well, we are multi-talented what can we say. Elmer Keith was a big fan of the .44 mag. and long range shooting and hunting with the .44 Grumpy, casting your own is alot more difficult than most people think, so that may be alittle over the newbie reloaders head. Proper lead temp, mold temp, mold storage, and all the little borax here and there may be alittle too intimidating. Not to mention the different lubes available. BTW have you tried deer tallow, bee's wax and 90w oil mix? I use that on my 45/70. Your right about higher velocity but gas checks are a necessity and leading at higher velocities can be a problem, although my muzzle loader shoots .490 patched round balls at 2300 fps. Typically over the chronograph IME you'll see about 200 to 300fps higher velocities with lead than jacketed. Lead is easier on the bore IMO too. The quickest way to de-lead a barrel is to fire jacketed slugs through it for those who don't know. Don't buy into the lead remover solvent theory IMO. I find about 6 to 10 rounds wipes the lead out then clean as normal.

Ding Dong, hello?!!! Sometimes I'm not thinking correct! I have sooooo many that it's hard to keep track of. 629, 629, 629, 629, 629, 629, 629, 629,629, 629, 629, 629, 629, 629, 629, 629,629, 629, 629, 629, 629, 629, 629, 629,629, 629, 629, 629, 629, 629, 629, 629,629, 629, 629, 629, 629, 629, 629, 629,629, 629, 629, 629, 629, 629, 629, 629,629, 629, 629, 629, 629, 629, 629, 629,629, 629, 629, 629, 629, 629, 629, 629,629, 629, 629, 629, 629, 629, 629, 629. Maybe I'll remember next time SORRY GUYS!