dr_hunt

I went to put the converter in the PG last night and bolt the trans and the engine together. Poured about a half a quart in the new art carr converter, just to make sure it wasn't dry. I'm sure you all know where this is going. So, most stock converters just slip right in, you spin it alittle to get the pump dogs to mesh with the converter and in she goes, right. Nope, the art car is so damned tight fitting it had no slop, I had greased the seal and shaft, shoved, pushed rotated, etc. to no avail, it kind of went in past the seal and that was about it. Meanwhile some of the trans fluid was pouring out the converter while I was trying to get it in the seal. So finally, once I got it in the seal, I grabbed my rubber mallet and hit the center a few times and in it went but it was extremely tight. Bolted right up to the engine, spins nicely but tight. So, another little mess. Well, we'll see on tune, I'll probably be looking you up. My cam is rather large compared to yours so I'm sure it'll need alot of timing to be responsive down low. I've heard that the blow through setups have a large cooling effect on the charge air so you run more timing. This comes from my friends running prochargers in a blow through setup, seems to be confirmed by your accounts as well. My old MAC timing light magnet broke and so I had to buy a new SnapON digital one off ebay for $125. Well, new to me. Works great and I glued the magnet back in and gave it to a friend, seems to still work, but I had issues with it being accurate.

It's a song actually. I can't remember which group it is though.

The Q-jet is simple, read the directions that come with the rebuild kit. Tear it all the way down and I mean all the way. Soak it in carb cleaner for a few hours, rinse it off, blow with compressed air all the passages. Ok, so you install the base plate and gasket then comes the idle air jets (hopefully you have an early qjet otherwise you drill the lead coverings to access them) Install them 1.5 turns out from closed to start with. Make sure the linkage is free and the primary throttle blases cover about half the transfer slot (vertical slot in primary base plate in venturi area), Next is the primary metering rod adjustment. On some qjets it is adjustable from the front of the carb on others it is not. If it is not take a pair of wire cutters and cut about 1/8" off the little brass rod sticking out of the primary metering rod barrel thingy that holds the primary metering rods. If it's adjustable, lower it until the top of the barrel thingy is about flush with the little hard plastic retainer when you push it down. This is your cruise part throttle leaning effect, this will give you more mpg's when cruising and have no effect on WOT performance. Install the float, needle and seat and set to factory spec then install the primary metering rods and barrel, put top gasket on, should hold it all into place, don't forget the spring under the primary metering rod barrel. If you lower the float a 1/16th it'll lean it out a bit but no reason to do that, just change metering rods if you need too. The air valve for the secondaries is a little screw on the passenger side, underneath is a allen set screw to hold it in place. You release the set screw, tighten the screw until the spring just touches and starts to have tension. Tighten 3/4 turn for sbc, 1 turn for BBC. You can play with this later on the vehicle if it needs more but I doubt it will. I like to install the top of the carb with the secondary metering rods in place, but it's kind of tricky to get them in the secondary jets, make sure you get them in the jet holes right. Bolt it on and it should work fine, if you need more fuel change metering rods, GM has a chart that goes from lean to rich and they have numbers like 041 etc. the secondary metering rods are much the same as is the hangars, the performace secondary metering rod hangar is a K hangar, you'll see some j's but most are K's. Not a big deal, but the plastic cam also wears out, might change that too, they come in colors, so make sure you get the right color. The early qjets are more performance, the later ones are emissions. The best one to get is an early one '75 through '77 with the electric choke. I likey the electric choke. The heat chokes suck IMO. Wire the electric choke hot wire to the alternator output wire (2 prong plug in in a GM) That way if it dies for some reason the choke doesn't come off during cold weather before the engine warms up. Bolt on and adjust idle air for best vacuum not smoothest running. Timing on stock should be about 12 to 14 degrees intitial advance with vacuum disconnected. Bigger cams need more initial advance IMO. Just my $.02

Those are hypers that are in the pic'c correct? Rods look like some brand of H-beam. Is the block or the heads o-ringed?

Have fun at college, it'll be the best time of your life and the friends you meet there will last a lifetime! The z and the rest of us will still be here when you get done, be it a semester or year end. Remember, your going there for an education, take it from them and leave the professors opinions behind!

I can't tell you how many times I've seen nos motors apart cause it was lean on gas for whatever reason. Great when it works, nasty when it doesn't. If you went 10% over, ran a pair of C&S alky supercharger carbs, it'd make all the power you could want and probably too much for the car to handle or even your brother to drive!

That's pretty cool, the guitar work isn't bad either. Kudos, your a talented dude! Ok, so now do a z on two wheels, then I'll really be impressed!!!!

What'd you expect for $100?

Larry you Brown Noser! Couldn't resist!

Yeah, those savage rifles do shoot pretty well. I've nver owned a bolt action persaonally, I have a model 99, and I have owned savage shotguns. Guns, everyone likes the ones that shoot real well. Guns are kind of like engines, some work better than others even though they are the same size. Kind of the way it goes.

I think the best advice grumpy had was build as much displacement as you can afford.

Wow, that's pretty nice fit and finish for a savage. Let us know how that shoots.

Your awfull lucky to have ol' larry around! That is a neat car, drive carefull and have a great time!!!

That happens, more than you think. I guess what your saying is that when does a search become too time intensive to read all the posts that are meaningless and non-informative. After hours and hours of reading and your question still isn't answered it just seems appropriate to post your question. But in lieu of that you could always PM somebody or some people and ask around and end up with the same result. It seems that the archives need to be cleaned up of all the non relevant posts in order for them to really be usefull in a search on some topics. On other topics I've found what I was looking for, but not all the time. As for your expertise areas, that pretty much sums up about everyone on the site. I don't think there is that many people who know alot about everything.

After reading this it is apparent that if you want to move to CA, just go there and buy a new car already equipped with all the smog goodies. Seems to me to be the cheapest way to go. So, the sticky for CA should read, "leave your junk where you came from see CA dealer, buy new CA certified car!"

Cool, is she going to join hybridz or does she work on cars at all?

good wisdom from a master!

Good question, I asked the same before and I still can't find an answer, I'm fixing to find out though. I built a 355 inch sbc with full CNC AFR 227 heads complemented with a custom comp solid roller for my TT project. I think from what I've read the converter has alot to do with making big heads work in a turbo application. So, I opted for a 4000 stall custom converter from art carr. We'll see how it works. Interestingly enough, more power is extracted by bore size from a turbo engine rather than stroke since F=PxA. The larger the area of the piston, the more torque and HP you'll get out of a turbo engine. Grumpy's right, the 400 cubic inch or larger would be the biggest bang for the buck. I have thought of the 4.125 bore and a 3.25 stroke combination as being probably a good fit for the z. Let us know how your plan comes together.

All running a car at WOT and then reading the plugs does it tell you what your WOT rich/lean condition is. Doesn't tell you anything about part throttle which is where you drive 99% of the time. The wideband is the way to go.

It's already in use, get it done boy!

Really, you ought to think this one through alittle more. Sell it to someone you dont' like. I have a list of people you can use in case you like everyone. Just kidding, be carefull!

Oh yeah, the smoking gun. How about smoke in the shape of a Z!

B I T C H I N!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Me want!