Well, been covered. John Force said it the other day. Nitromethane is for racing, alcohol is for drinking and gas is for getting to the race!
The ultimate is obviously Nitromethane, even when mixed with alcohol provides tremendous power!!!
If that is a stock short block, IMO your pushing the limits of the rod bolts at 5500rpm. IMO I doubt you find any HP or TQ gains using anything other than an MSD or HEI with a good module and HP coil.
Personally, I've never seen methanol come with oil addative, Methanol does come with a list of contents on the MSDS sheet and is 99.8% methyl alcohol, if I have my chemistry terms correct. You can get a purer grade of alcohol which is 99.99% pure for extra$$$
Myself and most racers add top end oil to lube the upper cylinder and valves.
The combustion product of methanol is H2O, so yes scottie is right, when you tear down an engine running on alcohol it is mostly (99%) void of carbon with the exception of the exhaust ports on the head. It looks like the day you put it together. I think that is due to water vapor being present in the combustion chamber due to lack of complete extraction of burnt fuel.
Yup, they are quick, that's for sure. When I raced in Alb last time I raced a 427BBC powered vega. Tree'd him and pulled him in first pretty good. 10.41 to a 10.86. Those z's are deceptively fast! At the end, he asked what in the world was in that car? Ha ha, wouldn't he like to know.........
Without seeing the crank to know what and where you are asking to add weight, it's almost impossible to comment. But if there are main journals that have no counterweight and you want to add one, then the answer would probably be no it can't be done. The big question is why would you want to? Reason that question comes up is that there is a limit to the hp that the l28 can make. If your wanting more, then you'll have to change engines. Adding counterweight to a crank isn't going to increase HP.
To get the ladder bars to work you have to weld in a channel from about the back of the seat on rearward so that the ladder bar can clear and travel with the suspension. If you doing floors already then that won't be a big deal. Using the frame reinforcment channel, drill crossways through the channel and frame to place the ladder bar link bolt. I'd put them on the inside of the frame rails and then with some wheel well mods, mini tub, you can get a 10 inch tire under there. I run a 29.5 tall tire as well, fits underneath the car no flares.
That channel is about 8 to 10 inches long, times two of them. Easy to fab out of 1/8" plate and give you good weld base to attach to the floor.
The 4 link is more adjustable, you can see the wheelies the black z does, with a 4 link you can adjust that out so that it doesn't waste that energy raising the car but instead makes it even quicker. I would imagine that with a 4 link I can get 60' down in the 1.20's if I have enough tire.
Well, I do straigh line, the truck arm would be difficult in a z if not impossible. 3 link, 4 link and ladder bar is conducive to traction in a straight line and on the street.
The ladder bar is sooooo simple it's what I'd like to detail first. I will be doing a 4 link like stony and we need that documented in dwgs as well for the masses IMO.
So, we'll see, I have to get the TT going next, then the z, well one of the z's anyway. Stay tuned.
Patience my boy, patience. I just finished the '33, let me breathe. Ok, I'm good, now what were you saying? Oh, yeah, when I get the z back from paint prison, I'll draw it in CAD, save it as a .pdf and post it I think. How's that? You in a hurry?
Yeah, in alb. it is the same way, when I showed up with the z, that was the first thing he asked about. When I told him 9 inch, he looked under there and said, no problem.