skirkland1980

I was noticing interference with my tps signal so I shielded the tps wires and fixed the problem. If you look at a 240sx wiring harness you'll notice the tps wires are shielded.

With no hoses connected to the wastegate it should technically boost until the turbo runs out of breath, probably around 30psi. I want to try utilizing both ports on the wastegate. Keeping some pressure on the top port seemed to help slow the leakage while testing the wg off the car. I'm convinced this wastegate problem is the reason why I don't hit full boost until about 4500 rpm.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u7ETw0T9Cv0 a video of the wastegate tests

You could also try staging the fans. Maybe use one ms output to turn one fan on at say 180, then another output to turn on at maybe 200.

normally I do but for testing purposes I disconnected it.

I'm not really thinking the turbo is bad. The last time the turbo failed I could hear the compressor wheel scraping the housing. I'm really thinking something is wrong with the waste gate because it doesn't hold pressure on the exhaust inlet side. Odd thing is I don't see any physical problems with it. I think I'll try a test drive with the waste gate blocked off. I'll just have to watch pressure closely.

Here are the two datalogs. 2014-10-03_16.53.25.zip 2014-10-10_18.02.00.zip

My boost pressure keeps getting lower and lower as the engine warms. Also every time I drive the car the peak pressure is a little lower than last time. For example, I made about a 20 mile round trip down the interstate and back. Starting out my boost pressure was about 20 psi on the way back I could only hit 12 psi. I let the car cool for 30 minutes and was able to hit 17 psi. That was October third. On October 10th I took a very short cruise of maybe 5 miles and hit boost three times. First hit about 15 psi, then 12, then could only get 8 psi. This was with no hoses connected to the wastegate. Ther car had been working great until recently running 25 psi. I had the turbo rebuilt in 2011 with maybe 5000 miles put on it since. It's a garrett TC4305 58mm with .82 tubine housing, 3" exhaust dumping about 24" from the turbo. So what I've done so far to diagnose the problem...First I removed the wastegate. It's a turbonetics evolution wastegate. I disassemble it thinking the spring may have been broken. Nope it's fine. I applied regulated air pressure to the bottom port and it cracks open at 15 psi. I also fabricated a tool to see how much back pressure it takes to open the gate. It leaks with only 1psi applied. So I disassebled the gate again and lapped the valve to ensure a good seal and retested. Still leaks with 1psi applied. This does not seem normal to me but I don't see and physical problems with the wastegate as everything appears ok. I also used a smoke machine to check for leaks in the intake, piping, and intercooler and found nothing. Anyone have any input or things I need to check? I will attach my datalogs. Thanks

Engine at least has a fresh paint job. Any plans for a turbo with those wakado headers?

You shouldn't notice much difference under normal driving conditions. In my car I've used 2000, 3000, and 4000. Only time I noticed Difference was when I loaded the converter for launching.

I believe I've made some progress. It seems that with every trigger angle adjustment made that ms must be restarted. I ended up with 78 degrees of trigger angle and it appears as though it's holding the correct timing upon every startup. I'm noticing that my timing is advancing slightly with rpm but not enough. I will try adding latency to see if that improves.

Use regulated compressed air to make sure the waste gate opens at 16 psi. Other than that it should be fine.

Is your exhaust manifold wrapped? Wraps tend to hold moisture. I've also had valve cover bolts loosen over time.

Ok I was wrong about what happened. I unplugged the ecu and turned on the power supply to the injectors. I disconnected all the injectors and connected a digital volt meter to one of the injector connectors. I found 11 volts while wiggling the harness. That means that the signal wire from the ecu was shorting somewhere. I removed the entire harness from the car and looked for a short. I didn't find a problem but I taped up the harness and reinstalled it into the car and have not had this problem again....just a timing problem for now.

Tinkered with the car today. I set my engine to tdc #1 compression stroke and adjusted the pickup coil to line up with the points on the reluctor. I started the engine and set trigger offset. I set it to 67, initially was 60 with engine timing at 40 degrees added 2 degrees at a time until I had 30 degrees at the engine. I turned off the engine and restarted now it's back at 40 degrees of timing on the engine. Everything is tight in the distributor. Also after I set it back to 'use table' the timing still remains locked.

Well shifting the chain guide over help any?

A torque converter will stall more with a heavy car an less with a lighter car. Also since the 700r4 has a very low first gear coupled with your 3.70 and low flowing heads I'd go with a 2500.

1983 280zx turbo using 83 vr distributor. I've been having a hard start problem. I determined that one problem was that my distributor rotor was too far from the cap terminal. So I set it so that the leading edge of the rotor was at max advance and the trailing edge at max retard. Now the car will start every time. However, after setting trigger offset and getting the timing light to match the map, when I turn the car off and restart it doesn't keep the same ignition timing. The car seems to run well if the trigger angle is set at either 12 or 50. I noticed at 50 is the only time the ignition timing will move with rpm but it retards. It's set to advance.

Ok this just happened to me again with a brand new ms2v3.57. I think I figured out what happened. When the engine got hot one or more of the injectors shorted and then shorted the injector driver in ms.

Upload your current msq file and lets have a look. I use 1 squirt myself.

Well my goal is 7.50 for now. I've done quite a bit to the car since this post first started. I'm running a th350 with a 4000 stall converter. I fixed my parking brake and connected an electric vacuum pump to the booster. I can actually get it stall at 3000 rpm now and 5 psi while using the parking brake to help keep the tires from spinning. My car is slow to hit 5 psi but when it does, 25 psi comes within a second. I did figure out my new launch control problem, the relay was bad. I'm using the brake switch and a toggle switch to activate launch. So I have a relay to complete the circuit for launch but the relay was bad and now it's working. Hopefully racing this friday the 12th if it's not raining.

Hi. I'm using a ms2 v3.57 now. I want to set up my launch control with my new MS. Is there any difference with ecu inputs or anything else? Thanks.

The nine inch would likely be too wide. A mustang 8.8 or pinto 8" would fit better.

This may sound like a stupid question but is the map sensor getting a good vacuum signal from the engine?

I found a bunch of tires but not much for 15 inch rims. I found a 205 50 but I think going smaller may hurt. That is a good idea about looking to see what the fast guys are running. I'll have to make my way on the track and snoop around.