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skirkland1980

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Everything posted by skirkland1980

  1. skirkland1980
    I've seen that front counter shaft bearing seize and crack the cover. It is engine oil?
  2. skirkland1980
    My car never ran correctly with the diy wheel and I had it set correctly.
  3. skirkland1980
    Make sure you have ignition voltage on one pin at each injector. Use a voltmeter and use the battery as ground. Also see if there's a difference using the engine as ground. If that checks good look at the ms grounds.
  4. skirkland1980
    The tps wires should be shielded. If you look at a 240sx engine harness you'll notice the tps wires are shielded.
  5. skirkland1980
    So I took a 2x4 rectangular steel tube 28" long and cut 3" squares out of the top on each end to fit it on the bottom of the frame section. Did some cutting and welding to make it snug and welded it in. The top patch was quite simply a patch riveted in with some sealer on the bottom. I decided on riveting since I plan on building an entirely new chassis for the car by this time next year.
  6. skirkland1980
    There's no need for injector resistors.
  7. skirkland1980
    Got some photos to load.
  8. skirkland1980
    I need to patch this massive hole in my floor. The patch panel I think I can figure out. It's the frame section I need help with. This is an 83 280zx. The frame section is curved and an odd shape. I'm not sure if I can just splice in some rectangular tubing. Any advice? Thanks. I can't attach my pictures...
  9. skirkland1980
    The vortec engine came stock with a mini gear reduction starter. Is the volt drop at the starter? If so make sure the cables, grounds, and all connections a good, if so it sounds like a bad starter.
  10. skirkland1980
    Is the pump in the stock location? How is your regulator plumbed? Either the fuel is boiling before the pump or in the rail. Is the exhaust near the pump or lines? Have you tried different types of fuel like ethanol free or maybe race gas or aviation fuel? I've notice mine is worse when i get fuel from quick trip or racetrack. They seem to add stuff to the fuel that lowers the boiling point.
  11. skirkland1980
    That video doesn't make sense. The blue z overheated the tires then lined up outside the groove. Maybe he enjoys a light feeling rear I don't know.
  12. skirkland1980
    What Z do you have?
  13. skirkland1980
    The round seal needs no rtv. You should use a little at the top and bottom of the side seals and a tiny bit across the back of the cap.
  14. skirkland1980
    Yes
  15. skirkland1980
    Oh I see, draw through turbo. I missed that.
  16. skirkland1980
    Use a holley carb regulator. Keep pressure around 6 psi. You want the float level about 1/8" below the plug while running. Heat from the exhaust can also cause percolation so try to keep the carb as cool as possible.
  17. skirkland1980
    I'd go with an in-tank pump. The walbro 255 is also available in an in-tank version. Cavitation then shouldn't be an issue.
  18. skirkland1980
    If you put a large funnel shape pipe on the end it will be much louder.
  19. skirkland1980
    I'd say if you're hitting 200 mph and not flying off the track you have good aerodynamics.
  20. skirkland1980
    Another new term for me is "dive planes".
  21. skirkland1980
    http://iracing.wikidot.com/components:wing-angle-wicker
  22. skirkland1980
    Which one?
  23. skirkland1980
    More progress I guess.
  24. skirkland1980
    After a lot of digging I found this article. Seems like the car in the video could have benefited from a front air dam. It just had too much airflow underneath. A good read but the writer couldn't find his space bar. http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/additional-how-to/hdrp-0609-aero-tricks-tips/
  25. skirkland1980
    Thanks. And by "serious" I mean cars running over 150 mph.
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