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skirkland1980

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Everything posted by skirkland1980

  1. Check your ignition timing first.
  2. You would have 8 pistons with the rx7 calipers.
  3. The beating doesn't turn while the clutch is engaged anyway so yeah not much better than a bushing. Plus its more likely to fail.
  4. The HL11 makes a nice beam. Those suckers are extremely bright even on low beam. Everyone who passes by would hate you for having them.
  5. The high price of copperr and brass would explain the price difference and that direct replacements are getting hard to find. I swapped to a griffin radiator. I had to make brackets and fit hoses together for the bottom hose to make it work. To top hose is one of those universal flex hoses.
  6. I was interested in this but for $50 more I'm going with the obx.
  7. If I recall correctly you have to use the lower tstat housing from the later na engine.
  8. Is the engine not bolted to the crossmember? If it were removed.....I'm not following
  9. I'm using a th350 with 4000 stall converter. I also used a 700r4 with a 3000 stall which also worked well
  10. Look for non chlorinated brake cleaners such as MOC.
  11. I not sure that I understand this dyno graph. Shouldn't torque and hp be equal at 5250rpm?
  12. Wow that first kit is expensive. If you already have the 4bbl intake you could just get the tb from a salvage yard and a megasquirt kit and use and adapter to fit the tb to the intake. Also need an electric fuel pump that provides 13 psi.
  13. I'm using a .82ar. Before I swapped cams it did lag quite a bit but was still very fun to drive. I liked how the tires would break loose when the boost hit. Much more fun than a stock turbo on the interstate. If you plan on future mods like a cam/ porting the bigger turbine will complement those mods.
  14. Yes it is shimmed to get the rotor centered in the caliper. If you shim the bracket it will move the caliper in the wrong direction.
  15. Here is a diagram of the hole locations. Use 1/2" steel plate. The outter holes will need to be tapped. You will need to grind the calipers a bit on the sides of the mounting pads. Also need to shim the hub on the spindle about 0.080". Use 4 lug Z31 rotors. Will also need some wheel spacers. Aftermarket wheels will work better.
  16. I also have a blueprint for the bracket if you want it.
  17. I have a video on youtube of these brakes on my car. I had a temporary bracket made for fitment purposes and never got around to making a permanent bracket. It uses the 4 lug z31 rotors.
  18. A question for you. Are you concerned with idle quality? Do you want to replace the spring and retainers also?If no to both you can get a regind from Delta cam. Ask for the 270. Or maybe there is someone closer to you as they are in Tacoma Washington.
  19. The top picture is the way I tried using. A bleeder to the top port with a T fitting doesn't work because when you bleed from the top port you also bleed from the bottom port. Maybe if I connect the bleeder to a different pressure source like the intake manifold? The rest of the pics are my wastegate setup.
  20. I'd like to see what other people using an external wastegate are doing to signal their wastegate. I've seen some diagrams online and tested them off the car and it just doesn't work. I have the wastegate (wg) on the engine in a good location. I'll add some photos of it. Right now I have a hose from the compressor to the bottom port and I'm seeing 12psi while driving the car. I have the 5psi spring with a helper spring inside. That spring is an inner valve spring from an n42 head. I need 20-25psi of boost. Thanks.
  21. Ok I plugged off the pipe to the compressor and pressurized the piping and found a pretty big leak. It was a loose clamp. I'm still looking for the most reliable way to plumb the wastegate. I'm going to start a new thread on that.
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