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skirkland1980

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Everything posted by skirkland1980

  1. The ka24e throttle body will bolt right on and has a usable tps. You'll just need to connect the throttle linkage. I personally do not use iac or fast idle.
  2. I also broke a ring land on #1 several years ago.
  3. Thanks Tony. I really like your input. http://m.youtube.com/?#/watch?v=HIigXZ-RRCo this guy, his name is Justin. I met him once at the track. He is running a stock ecu and T70 turbo. I don't know his hp but it has to be close to 400.
  4. Tony. What are your recommendations to get a broad torque curve using a stock turbo intake and my tc4305 turbo? I was thinking about relocating the injectors further up the runners, fabricating an additional plenum and plumbing the plenum into the existing injector bungs. I would use some sort of valve to apply the extra air at a predetermined rpm. Do you think this will work?
  5. You could set skip pulses to something lower like 2 or 3 but likely timing is your problem. Disable the fuel injectors and crank the engine while checked the timing with a timing light. Cranking timing is advanced timing not total timing.
  6. Yes it's mostly based on bore, stroke and head volume. Other things to calculate for cr is how far the piston is "out of the hole", valve relief volume or dish volume, and head gasket thickness. 9-9.5:1 would be a healthy upgrade.
  7. From what I've read here it seems like your ecm is getting all the needed power and grounds since you are getting spark. The injectors get power from a separate fuse if I recall correctly. See if you have battery voltage to one pin on the injector plugs then measure resistance from the other pin to the ecm. Should be 8 pins at the ecm for sequential.
  8. Stock valves and springs are great pieces. Stay under .460" lift. You can get a cam regrind from delta and resurfaced rockers for around $100 plus shipping. Just check their work especially on the rockers. They tend to not be resurfaced parallel.
  9. You need a head before Pistons so you can plan your cr. Run the cr that the cam grinder recommends. Probably 9-9.5:1.
  10. You live right down the road from me. I don't mind helping.
  11. I'm using itm pistons so I know they're good. Not sure why that add is for 4. L series is known for detonation so keep the cr on the low side if you're using a stock cam.
  12. I forgot to answer your other questions. Yes it's reliable as long as it's set up correctly and yes it works with aftermarket ignition systems.
  13. I fried my 3.0 box when I let a power wire touch the case. So if you go MS don't ever do that. I'm now using a v3.57 which works the same it's just built by a machine. You can assemble a v3.0 yourself if you want. You should be able to do the conversion for around $500-600. It's a great learning experience. There is plenty of technical support here and through the diy website.
  14. Yeah what he said. The bip 373 at Q16 doesn't come on the 3.57. Set it to js10 going high inverted. Cranking dwell 6ms, running dwell 3ms.
  15. Use a stock intake and take the money you saved on a lone wolf and get a megasquirt efi system. You'll be glad you went to a programmable system. For a dd the any stock efi intake will perform well.
  16. You don't need resisters for ms. Just make sure you have the injector characteristics set properly. The megamanual explains how to set it up.
  17. You can use the vortec heads 262h cam or even 272h. Just don't expect it to make a lot of power over 5500. I don't think you'll be disappointed. It'll make a heap of torque and will pull hard.
  18. An led would be cheaper and easier. You can get a pack of them from radio shack for a few dollars. Plug the led into the injector connector. Spin the engine over and the led should blink.
  19. I've seen corrosion in the ecm before. If that's not your problem t-in a fuel pressure gauge after the filter. Need around 30psi. Check your injectors with a noid light or led to see if they're firing. Sounds like a shorted wire causing your headlight phenomenon.
  20. I've read about problems using the stock return line on some of the s30s. Not sure if that applies to your car. If the pump isn't running at full power plus a return restriction you may not see a problem with the pressure...?
  21. I used the plumb bob method. Seems easier if everything is already assembled.
  22. I would use the cam that makes the best lite end t torque. Vortec heads on a 383 isn't going to make a ton of power in higher revs. So aim to get the most torque you can. It'll pull super hard up to about 5500 rpm. And since you're running a 700r4 I'm guessing you like to cruise. The overdrive will be useless if you kill your low end torque.
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