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skirkland1980

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Everything posted by skirkland1980

  1. Here is the type of rear wing you'll see on most serious drag cars.
  2. https://m.youtube.com/?#/watch?v=Zxe_DqAkeAk here is the video and you can see the air foil which us not typical to drag cars. Just wondering if it played a role in the crash.
  3. I'm trying to figure out why a drag race car uses a different rear wing than say a road or circle track car. What brought this to my attention was the Lexus ISF crash that happened recently which the car had a road course style air foil instead of the typical style wing in which is common for drag cars.
  4. You want the leading edge of the rotor at the #1 terminal at max advance so around 36-40 degrees. That way the rotor is still close enough to the terminal during retard. The problem is the tiny cap that you have makes it easier to jump to the next terminal. The turbo dizzys are bigger and more forgiving. Also make sure your wires and plugs are in good condition. And make sure you're not using copper core wires.
  5. A cap at h1 boot loader will prevent those spikes.
  6. It sounds like the spark is jumping to the next terminal in the cap. I'm not familiar with the 36-1 wheel but can you adjust trigger angle with the trigger wizard?
  7. Yes. Make sure it's phased properly. Before locking the advance set the engine in tdc #1 in the compression stoke. Make sure the point on the reluctor is pointing to the point in the pickup and the rotor' leading edge is pointing to the terminal in the cap at max advance. Setting the timing can be tricky using ms. mine was retarding during accel instead of advancing and it was because if this phasing issue.
  8. Disassemble the distributor. I welded the centrifugal advance. Make sure you don't welded it on 180 degrees off. Don't damage the reluctor. If you do you should be able to get one from oreilly auto.
  9. I called stainlessheaders.com and the sales associate who seemed very knowledgeable said they can make me a stainless flange for $100 and weld my header for $300. The only thing is their flange will be 3/8" thick and small spacers will need to be welded on to make up the difference. And just to be clear will it need to be one piece? Thanks.
  10. Ok thanks John. The problem is I'm using the wrong shielding gas. I'm going to start on building a new one and take it to a professional to have it welded.
  11. The welds aren't beautiful but I'm sure they won't fail. I'm using a mig.
  12. Ok I need a one piece flange and expansion joints and what is wrong with the welds?
  13. Injectors should be wired to ignition.
  14. On a sticky track with sticky tires you can get away with little to no travel. When you have the opposite the only thing you have is the suspension to transfer the weight to the rear for you. You'll also have to play with your launching techniques since you have a manual trans which is not ideal.
  15. Limiting front travel was something I did on my camaro but yeah you're right it might not work so well with irs.
  16. Try raising the whole car up a bit to gain some travel. You can also try limiting the amount the front shocks extend to see if that helps it squat. If the front can't rise then the rear will have to squat. You may not need to change any parts yet. Just try working with what's there.
  17. I'm using 1.5" od .065" wall. I found that in order to make that pipe fit the head I would have to expand it to 1.85" for cylinders 1,2 5 & 6 and 1.95 for cylinders 3 & 4 (if you can even expand it that much) to make it fit inside the flanges at the head.
  18. I'm building a 304L stainless turbo header for my 83 280zx turbo. Should all the flanges at the head be connected? Also should I fit the pipes inside the flanges or can the just be butted up to the flanges? I've watched all the header building videos from stainlessheaders.com and was left with these questions. Thanks.
  19. Putting slicks on isn't a cure, it's just a bandaid for a poorly setup suspension. Get the rear to squat and make sure the car sits level at rest. Make sure the rear and front suspension have enough travel and isn't binding.
  20. You'll have to open the head a little a long as the port roofs match or the head is slightly bigger. A very small transition on the floor is ok a it can help deflect some air to the roof. Maybe you can lower the intake a little just to get the roofs to line up. I hasd this problem on a sbc. It ran like total crap until I opened up the roof of the head port.
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