skirkland1980

Hello. My turbo 2.8L is suffering sticking exhaust valves. This has happened twice this year. It has never happened any other time. It happens during start up. It will run fine then if the car sits a few weeks it will throw off a lash pad. The first time I just reinstalled the lash pad and did a valve adjustment and it was fine so I just thought there was too much clearance. Yesterday it happened again but I think it may valve bent the valve this time. I cannot get the valve all the way up. I did some research and it seems to be common with engines that run leaded fuel as I do. Seems to also happen to engines with high exhaust temps and with valve guides that extend into the exhaust port. I read this in an article regarding aircraft engines. The article said there is no way to fix it but I'm hoping someone here may have experienced this and knows a cure. I was thinking that maybe I need some stainless valves and bronze guides but that's a very big expense if I don't need it. Any suggestions? Thanks.

I'm in the middle of the conversion and i don't think you'll have to do much cutting. I'm thinking maybe just some clearance for ladder bars. I'm going to try to use the stock struts also.

Im running high tens. The irs is becoming a problem for traction. I'm swapping to a solid axle. Mainly for gear ratio.

Yeah you can slot it. Use a plub bob and hang it from the center of the damper and mark a line on the floor. Do the same at the output yoke and at the pinion flange. Use a string to see if all your marks are inline.

I just found one on CL. Was curious myself. Found this thread via search.

My bungs are 3" from the head at a 45 degree angle.https://youtu.be/ROpeT76j0lA

That would hurt quench. A thick head gasket would also. Some chamber reshaping would work best.

If you're pulling a hill or mud hole what rpm would you expect to see?

How often are you driving at wide open throttle? I think cam choice would be most critical. High compression helps too. The best torque mutiplier your vehicle has is the transmission and gears in the diffs. Most 4x4 guys kill thier torque with big tires without changing the gearing to compensate. If you input torque on the drive shaft is 200lbft and the ratio is 3:1 the the output is 600 lbft. If 4:1 then its 800 etc.

Cool. I had seen them in their catalog. Very good price too. Do you have some pics? Catalog pic isn't very good.

I had wheel hop after i welded my diff. Wasn't very violent though. I did find that my rear diff mount was broken so I burned off all the rubber and welded it solid. Also at the same time I did the poly bushings and drag radials. I have no more wheel hop so I'm not sure exactly what fixed it. I'm also now leaving with a 50 shot and trans brake but still no wheel hop either way.

Are you using a turbo distributor? Make sure your timing is matching what ms says it should be. Ms is funny with timing control. It needs a very tight trigger angle range. You may get it to run fine with say 25 degrees trigger angle but then it may be advancing timing when it should be retarding and vice versa.

Since you're pulling the head make sure the roof of the head intake port is not lower than the roof of the intake manifold runner. If so it makes for a terrible running engine.

I can only hear mine if the engine isn't running. Even with the full exhaust.

Yeah mine only comes on with the brakes applied. It works nicely that way. I've never experienced a hard pedal that way. The booster holds vacuum so there's usually vacuum still on from the last time I drove. You can get fancy and have a canister with a vacuum switch so that it only turns one when vacuum drops.

Maybe you can see it here.

I found a electric vacuum pump on ebay. Its some type of oem pump for a ford I think. It was about $110. I wired it to a relay which turns on when I apply the brake pedal. Works nicely.

A p79 head might help. The valves are bigger and with flat tops compression would be pump gas friendly. I had an 83 5 speed f54 flat top /p79 with megasquirt it was not the fastest car but very fun to drive.

I'm just curious what your 600hp budget is. Its hard to make suggestions not knowing the given budget.

It's fixed. It was the alternator. Strange how everything else worked fine.

I'm assuming the nitrous worked previously because I just charged the battery. I think the meth injection problem may have been the same issue.

Ok. I'm not going crazy. Ms is triggering the nitrous. I am getting power and ground to the solenoids but it's very low. Apparently not enough to turn them on about 11.2 volts. This is because the alternator isn't spinning fast enough which has been a problem since I installed the ati damper. I've ordered a voltage regulator that will turn on the alternator at a lower rpm.

I could try that but i think iac1a sends 12v and iac1b sends ground.

Tried to upload my tune msq file but says I'm not permitted to upload this type of file. error hybridz.bmp

Can't get ms to turn the n2o on. I have a switch sending a gound to js4 on the v3.57 board. This is ms2 extra 3.3.2. I have output set to iac1 since I'm using fidle for the fan and I have no idea what "remote port1 bits 0+1" means. I'm using iac1 pin 25 on the db37 to send a 12v signal to a relay. Is that correct or is it ground? All the conditions to trigger the n2o are being fulfilled but nothing. Tps is working correctly, coolant temp above min, rpm within set limits. I can jump pins 87 and 30 and get it to turn on and I swear I felt the relay click but nothing. I tested the relay by check resistance on pins 87&30 while energizing pin 85&86 and seems good. Nitrous worked good before connecting to ms. I had methanol injection on iac1 and it didn't seem to work either.