BluDestiny

Its more than likely custom, as the A pillar is super thin. I doubt there is an off the shelf one that will fit.

How bad the rust is will determine how expensive the rebuild will be. I would pass that up, but I can easily source a decent not rusted L28, which I would rebuild with dished pistons. I'd offer $150 for it and see what he says.

Is this a turbo or NA application?

8" wheels are actually not 203mm. That measure is bead to bead, they are really 9" wide (or close to that) lip to lip. Anyway I saw that you know your tc rods are pretty much toast. Is it only rubbing right at the front of your airdamn? and does it happen when you are going in reverse or forward or only when you brake? Your TC rods could just have too much play in them causing your caster to go whacky under certain conditions (turning hard and braking etc..) Are you running any camber? what kind of suspension are you running?

You can probably find the proper size gromet somewhere online. I'd suggest mcmaster carr. Now if you really want it shaved, you'd need to cut out a piece of metal, weld it in place then shave it down and use bondo or something to even the look out. It's such a small area that you could probbably do it yourself or you can get a body shop to do it for less than $100 if they don't need to paint match it.

Well you know its either coming from the rear main seal or the front seal in the tranny. So take the tranny off, install a new clutch and resurface your flywheel and change the rear main seal. Then do the front seal on the tranny. Then you shouldn't need to open it for another 50k miles.

No they will not all weigh the same. You want an earlier model. But then the lighter ones need more reinforcement. Forgetting the shell, if you go with an sbc it will automatically move you to another class that probably have much more stringent rules. Are you planning on winning or just fooling around?

Not in your price range. I'd just start lurking on zilvia for some random wheels to show up. As for the 6spokes's, I had them on my zx with 235's (came with them) and they cleared shocks/springs. They shouldn't be rubbing anything except maybe the coilvoer perch. Do you have any pics of the coilovers installed?

You can source modern fuses and install them yourself. I'm also pretty sure they messed with the wiring, at least moving and prodding just to see where everything goes. Probably the first they they tried is checking the grounds/cleaning the connections. Headlights shouldn't kill the battery unless there is a short somewhere.

Its the offset. It is messing with the normal scrub. Take the 25mm spacers off and try a 10mm.

Run a 1/4 to 1/2 in spacer. I actually thought those wheels were 0 offset, Not to sure though since my last set was a long time ago. My rpf1's are +22, but I run a 2" adapter spacer, so that's -30 which is a tad less than 4" backspace.

No those are the 130mph, I don't think they ever made one at 200mph

That's a turbo dizzy, but I can't see if it has the cas or not. Look for a plug that has 4 wires in it, about 4" long off the dizzy. You should run a relay board, unless you plan on trying to hook it into the original relays/fuses the car has, but since you have it I would use it to protect the board and wiring. There are plenty of people with baselines, you can probably find a thread in this section. Depending on how he did the wiring, a normal 8' ms wiring has labeled wires. You could also try contacting matt cramer or diyautotune themselves for help

literally everything but the block. You would need it all. money items are the manifold, turbo, dizzy, ecu and harness, afm, injectors and intake manifold, jpipe and turbo rubber intake boot.

You should pull that stuff and sell it all. You can easily make your money back. How does the ride feel with the coilovers?

You remove the nut that's vertical, then if you're just replacing the mount, it's easiest to take the whole rear cover off and slide the entire thing down (after loosening the cover to mount nuts). If you're dropping the diff, then you loosen the driveshaft, axles, and the 4 long bolts holding the diff to the subframe, then remove the cover nuts and move the diff forward a bit, lower the mount straight down, then wiggle the diff out. Or take the cover off again. Thing is, removing the cover will be messy.

Did you not adjust the coilovers?

I heard about this place in Zilvia. might swing by since I'm in town now. Thing is, I can just go to the garage my friend works at after hours for the same stuff.

Is the sound coming from the front or the back? and why do the r200 swap, unless you figured out it was from the rear end. To do the r200 swap you need to lower the gastank, turn the rear diff bushing bolt 180* around and then put the r200 in. It's not hard, but it is time consuming.

Are they stock wheels or aftermarket?

There are other pads that are cheaper and probably less noisy than the hawk hp+ and if you have a hydraulic hose place close to you they can make the lines far cheaper than what msa charges. I think it cost me $30 for all 4. I'd do research on pads depending on what your goals are, how you drive, and what the intended use for the car it.

225/50/15's are 24", unless you have 205's. Look into a b&m short shifter, they are reasonably priced and make a world of difference.

Also check for leaks around the master cylinder/brake booster. It sounds like that's the problem. or the soft lines are just finally going out. And the pads themselves could just be crappy autozone pads. I went from duralast cheap as dirt pads to some hawk hp+'s and its a huge difference. Well set up stock brakes are fine for track duty. Good pads, ss lines, and fluid will go a long way.

Just get a block from rebello, you'll be happy.

How old is your battery? and is it a regular battery or a gel/drycell?