BluDestiny

Freaking Awesome,

You should not need a lift kit, you probably just have part o the exhaust hanging off or something. Go to a muffler shop, and have them put your car on the lift and see if anything hangs below the frame rails.

Well for comparison my friends 240sx s13 model had like 30lbs or so with just the trunk and rear seat/wheel arch area. I don't think they laid it on thick for s130's

Everyone says that sound deadening make up a lot of weight I I remember only getting out like 13-17 lbs. That was from everything except the firewall. Weighed it with a scale first with me and the sound deadening, then just me and subtracting the difference. I do remember the ac stuff adding up to much more.

I used to have a sparco fighter seat in my ZX and it had small shoulder bolster, it was a pain in the ass to get into and out of my car specifically for that reason. I know have sparco tec seats and the shoulder bolster is smaller, but it makes a world of difference for a car that I pretty much drove every day. My thought process was that I probably shouldn't' be going as fast on the street anyway, and its not like the tec seats don't hold you.

I'll be in Jersey that weekend Sucks because I'm missing an orlando 240sx meet also

There have been numerous problems with the full kit. do some searching, here and google. If you're just going after the mounts though it may be ok.

That looks like an MSA piece without the cutouts for the early style turn signals

Yeah those are just stock strut tubes with some lowering springs. The springs look really compressed, and also like you're not getting a lot of shock travel. Doesn't look like anyone cut anything though.

Shoulder bolsters add a significant amount of support to a driver doing a wide sweeper at 110mph. Definitely worth the bolsters if you plan on road racing a lot. Key word a lot. You're back will not enjoy getting into and out of the 47 series.

Hatch isn't lining up, and that's a difficult part to get back to normal. Z32's don't really hold value well, so that's probably why it's totaled. Sucks that it was a slicktop. Are you planning on parting it out or swapping parts to a new shell?

The rear end is probably a 3.9 r200. Worth maybe 150. And those wheels for maybe 100. And then the engine. If the rear tailights aren't cracked I'll take those. And maybe the hood if it's in good condition. Maybe the subframe and control arms if you can sit on them for a while. But other than that I don't see much value. Now if you could get it for half that I would. Edit: front strut tubes and brakes for 510 guys that go to coilovers.

The Y pipe can actually be tucked up more. I'm not sure if you mocked it up, but on my ZX (I know it's not an s30, but close) the y pipe initially hung lower than the frame rails. I chopped about 2 inches off the y part to get it higher than the frame rails. Just some food for thought if you start scrapping on speed bumps.

If it's chump cars, shouldn't you use the cheapest one? Also I thought the material of the rings is depended on the roughness of the hone.

Ppk did exactly what you want to do with the subframe. And he kept breaking the brackets off. Plus those eccentric bolts give you maybe half to a full degree of movement which isn't enough really. The kit is in the works, check the s130 build thread section. Stock calipers with ss lines and good pads go a long way..... I just wouldn't mess with the bias.

read this thread for the tokico situation: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/112293-tokico-woes/ The TTT kit is pre-assembled by there in house fabricators. I'm not sure what you mean by cutting a piece into three pieces? I would just have a piece of circular steel cut out, and then a correct diameter hole on it, so I could slip it on and weld the entire thing. KYB is generally OEM and soft and don't play well with lowered cars, hence why the only real option is Koni. Tokico was the middle ground. AZC just wants a sale, so I wouldn't bring it to him (not bashing his product, he makes great stuff). Like I said I would make the measurements and bring it to a muffler shop to cut, then have it sandblasted somewhere, then bring it back to the muffler shop to weld the perch on. If you're set on a drop in set, TTT is probably the cheapest set.

Try Zilvia and nissanroadrace. Might even be able to just find a harness

Well considering it's "rebuilt" that's a fair price.

In order to section the struts, you just have to measure, mark with a marker, and use a $20 harbor freight angle grinder to chop them off. Or bring them to an exhaust shop who has to have a saw for chopping piping, and have them chop it. If you think they are competent welders then you can also have them weld it back together. Then if you have the perches they can weld that stuff on also. Pretty much EVERY kit for a Z will require welding of some sort. Tokico's are pretty much dried up in North america, so the next real choice is koni. the KYB's you're seeing probably won't work well if you lower them more than a few inches, and it will ride like poop. The Mckinney kit has a tube that (once welded on) has a larger diameter tube that the shock threads into since they make all there shocks the same size. It's only going to be maybe $200-300 of labor and anyone who charges you more is either the only welder in town or knows you have no other options. After that you can assemble everything else by yourself with simple hand tools. If your budget is $1300, then you're going to be spending most of that on shocks. IIRC koni's (which are the go to shock, now that tokico is messed up) will run you about $200 a shock. The GC kit then cost another $400. Then it would behoove you to invest in some camber plates etc...so in reality expect to pay another $500 for randoms things (new bearings, gland nuts, etc...)

The more you lower your rear, the more camber and toe it will gain, there is nothing to do about this using stock bushings. It's really noticeable when you have stock sized wheels on and lower the crap out of the car. There is a toe/camber kit in the making. It will require the subframe to be pulled out and adjustable hinges welded in as the pivot points for the front of the control arm. Other than that PPK tried to use offset heim joints welded in place of the old rubber bushings. It would work, if he never changed wheels, and stayed at the same height.

If I blew and engine, and found a deal on a full engine/tranny combo, I wouldn't bother to take it apart if I was in a hurry. If you have the larger 240mm flywheel, both the 225 and 240mm clutch will work. You're numbers 1 and 3 are saying the same thing.

Sounds like another throwout bearing collar problem. You're not getting enough distance and the clutch is contacting the flywheel. What collar are you using? 240z?

My 260z weighed in at 2680, with AC and bumpers and full interior. Last time I weighted the AC components in the bay it was about 40lbs (compressor, bracket, condensor, piping). Not sure of the weight of the rear bumpers, although I doubt it to be more than 25lbs (my front bumper weighed 22 with the brackets), and a muffler is like 5-7lbs. So not really much.

Durrag, this is exaclty what I was looking for. Where do you have them mounted? from what I've seen on here a lot of people have 4 latches, 2 near the firewall and 2 right around where the strut towers are. That spot seems to see the most flex at speeds

Put the filter in the oem possession. I wouldn't know where that is since my Z had an aftermarket low pressure electrical pump near the tank with a fuel filter before it, and another clear fuel filter in the engine bay just before the carbs.