BluDestiny

I'm running kyb excel g's on my s13 with tein lowering springs, and new the bumpstops that came with the shocks. I've put 20k miles on them and they are still fine. Everyone says that if you run that combo it will blow out asap. Well they are wrong. Then again I use my240sx as a grocery getter and I don't really ever mess around with it.

So you were moving, then you floored it and it got stuck? Did you push the clutch pedal in also? How long did this whole event last?

It doesn't look like you can get an undivided housing with a Vband. So I guess you have to either use that or go with the undivided 4 bolt 3" outlet

Depends on what steering rack you have. I have the manual rack and it clears fine. The normal power steering (without the big box thing) is also fine. If you have the big box thing (recipricating power steering) you will normally have to notch the P/S box to get it to clear the turbo.

-1 camber in the front is not bad, it will make cornering more fun. As long as the toe is close to 0 and the caster is the same on both sides and allows you to fully turn the wheel lock to lock your golden.

Yes it will. People have used Turbo manifolds with P79 heads, which are round port. They are made for square port heads. So they work on both round and square ports.

Wow that sucks, Good luck trying to get the bumper issue taken care of. I love getting a stink eye from cops in Cali for no front plate, and then having them pull a U-turn just to see my FL plate

Ugh that horrible side molding. Not a fan of the taillights. But I'm sure that engine is beast. Love the plexiglass see through cover, although I would never do it since it does direct air to the brake and clutch master cylinders.

It is for sure MSA type 2 ( I think) sideskirts. Whoever got them installed decided to put that crappy molding over them. You can tell because the line on the sideskirt has a slight downturn towards the front. You can clearly see the line angle here: Honestly I don't think it looks that bad without anything in the rear. Maybe some mudflaps or a partial valace, but I prefer the look of the ZX rear bumper.

I can't believe you got that for $650. The z gods have been nice to you.

I'm pretty sure that's generally how they feel. My friend has them on his 240sx and it feels the same way you describe it. Possibly a prop valve can help.

If you do go with MS, I would suggest MSII since it will cost less, and you probably won't use all the features of MSIII anyway. They sell a pretty nice carb to efi kit for $600 that has everything you listed and a few more things. I would also suggest building your own kit to keep costs down. If you can run wires you can build a MS board(or so I'm told)

Rivals literally kick ass. I've seen them running faster laps than actual autox tires (proxes R1A's) on two similar s2000's the last autox event I was at

Here is a link to one of the easiest to use tire size diameter calculators. This does not help with backspace, I use another online calculator for that. It requires java so it may or may not work on your comp. http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

A bumperless 280zx can look ok, you just need a non stock lip. It looks similar to an s30 with the MSA lip and no bumper. Yes it does kill aero, , but even a bumper'd 280zx isn't exactly the most aero dynamic thing out there. I went from an arita speed G nose to a regualr front with an MSA lip and you could noticeably feel the difference/drag at highway speeds. The wheels look ok, but the tires are undersized. Stock size is 195/70/14 which equals 24.7in in diameter Your tires are 23.9 inches in diamter so they are noticably smaller. It also doesn't help that it's a 2+2. That makes the wheels look small. Could use a small spacer and lower it more to fill the gap.

http://www.homemadetools.net/intercooler-pipe-beading-tool?gce=tab50&utm_expid=57824293-7&utm_referrer=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.homemadetools.net%2Fcategory%2Fbead-rollers%3Fgce%3Dtab50

Have you done basic maintenance or do you know if all the basics have been replaced? Dizzy cap,rotor, belt, oil change, rad fluid? are the grounds and connectors nice and clean? Have you checked the fuel pressure at the rail? that could cause it to cut out as well.

Rocky auto might snag it lol

No I'm not. Orlando is a bit of a drive and I only make it for a few zilvia meets. tooquick260z is another member in orlando. Haven't met up with him yet either.

P79 is round port, so you can use either round port headers or square port headers. Are the 78 headers the 6-1? because then they won't clear the steering rack, Honestly I'd use the one for your car, since it kinda makes sense. Why would you use the other one over the one made for your car?

Could easily be a bunk thermostat, I've had several in my life. At idle the coolant goes through a little hole, but when its actually driving, it can't flow fast enough since the wax hasn't opened. Take it out and throw it in a pot of boiling water to make sure it opens. The crappy running is probably because your car was overheating. If it has a temp sensor in the head then when it was running hot then it was sending a bad signal to the ecu

I had seat brackets ordered through werks II motorsport in Burbank ca. I'm sure they are outsourced to a company out in the long beach area that makes brackets. Starts with a W just can't remember the name. Anyway the seat brackets are about $110 each and are completely bolt in. They could probably be recrated for about $50 if you knew how to weld. I had the brackets made so I can use either sparco sliders or bolt straight to a bottom mount seat. If you want I can get some measurements. Just pm me.

Had them for a year and a half now. Still work fine. Hooked them up as per the instructions and didn't connect the blue light. Great quality stuff.

Need more lower

Are you still using stock shocks?