BluDestiny

280's are already plumbed for fuel injection, so that makes it a little easier.

If you want to try different muffler, I'd weld on a vband clamp as close to the end as possible and just keep swapping out mufflers. What kind of magnaflow do you have? You can always go to a straight through design if the one you have is chambered.

280's use electronic ignition.

Problem with that kind of cost, especially to the people on this board is that people are cheap. Personally knowing what I know now(lots of research in the Megasquirt section), I would never pay that much to hook up MS. and I feel like a majority of the board is like that as well. My friend, who had an SDS installed at simtech for his stock L28e shelled out $2k because he didn't have the time, place or knowledge to do it himself, and he needed the car running and he did have the money. That is the kind of crowd you're marketing to. That and people who set up MS wrong and need someone to trouble shoot.

Yes, but of course that depends on how you drive. Do a lot of hard launching and something is bound to break, drive like a granny and you probably won't ever break anything. 300-350hp/tq is where the tranny gears start to crumble.

That is a perfectly reasonable price for a full standalone set up and base tune that will get the car driving. SDS installs at Simtech cost around $2k, Z fever quoted me at $2500 with a dyno tune for a Haltech setup, Sunrise Z told me it would be about $2k for an EDIS megasquirt setup, not including you sourcing the parts...... In my opinion, his price reflects the cost of a Megasquirt Unit. Obviously if it was a haltech unit it would probably be $500 more, since a haltech is about that much more.

According to the fsm the head stud torque should be checked every so often. But personally I never did either. When is the last time you changed your coolants? Something similar to that happened to me like 5 years ago, in my 260z. It just felt low on power and when started acted like crap. turned out my head gasket almost randomly blew, so that the compression in the number 5 cylinder was lost and coolant was getting through and leaking.

Lol the same thing happened on my friends car. Except his was a scion xb with like 100k miles on the clutch.

Suspension doesn't feel like a boat, make sure everything on the cluster works, especially if it's digital. Check for rust. check the engine bay for crappy wiring. Z31's have a low following, so almost every example you can find is crappy.

I would also try searching/posting in zilvia. I know a set of these popped within the last 6 months. Ironically it was the same set I sold. they were 16x7 0

You can buy the clutch fork new, so you just really need a collar and the shift lever. I think a 4 speed lever will work, as long as its not the early kind. and you can also probably use the collar from your 4 speed, you just need to buy the bearing and clutch/pressure plate for the "4 speed".

I didn't try it, but I don't think it will because the piston diameter is different. Plus it sits about 2-3 inches lower with the flat style top hat instead of the thick s130 top hat

For that amount of boost, you don't want an internal wastegate. It probably wouldn't be set up right and could cause bad boost creep.It probably won't be big enough to work properly. Generally for new turbo's made, t25's and t28's are internal, anything t3 and up almost always requires an external. Unless you buy some china crap, but then all kinds of crap can go wrong. They are all almost turbo and water cooled as well. Also all those turbos I named are pretty much $1k+. I do believe there are some holsets that are internal (hx35 or hy35), and you can ship those off to pretty much any diesel truck repair place and they should know how to fix it.

Oh my, those gram lights are tasty looking. Never seen them in that low an offset before.

I had some custom top hats made. Basically the bottom matched the Kei office part, and the top matched the s130 top hat part. Cost me $200 for a pair. Your coilovers should use a rubber bushing in the rear top hat, so a seat/lip just needs to be in the bottom.

You can either machine the housing to accept a bigger wheel, or just buy a new turbo. Generally installing a bigger wheel will be cheaper. Turbo Selections: GT35R, GT30R, or a Precission 5558, 5858, 5862. Each one of these has a different flow map, which is something you'd need to consider for you choice.

In that case, my personal fabricator is Tom at Morse Muffler. He's located in Burbank CA and they build full frames for sand dune runners. He also does my exhaust work. I would also go to him for a cage, and he recommended exactly where the bracing should be, thickness of the tubing and plates, etc.

Yes the stock turbo can be rebuilt. G-pop makes a rebuild kit, about $150 if I recall. "best bet" to upgrade depends on your goals. If you want it cheap, rebuild the stock one. If you plan on running more boost, get a QUALITY brand T3, such as a garrett, turbonetics or precision. You can put in a bigger wheel, the compressor housing can be machines out. I know the z31 turbo can take a larger wheel, and since your turbo still spools, it would be worth looking into getting one of those to rebuild so your car isn't down too long. New turbos will bolt to the manifold as long as they are T3, but the downpipe will probably have to be custom made. Any competent exhaust shop should be able to do this if you give them a flange.

Any pics of them in action?

I'm confused, I thought the original post was specifically about cutting the tops out and welding in camber plate, but here you're talking about buying full coilovers. You can still buy the T3 setup and have john just do the camber plate install. I'm not saying JohnC's will be better than T3. Heck you can make the T3 coilovers for about half the price that T3 is charging. If you really want to save money, collect the parts, measure and cut the tubes, and then bring it to a welder and have him weld on the perch. That's it. That should cost you almost half of what T3 is charging, unless you get fancy with cleaning the stuff up. You just need a guy who welds. Make the measurements yourself.

And there is a members project section, with an S130 section. That's where you'd make your build thread.

Honestly for stock boost and turbo injectors, I think the 280z pump will work. The turbo and non turbo ZX pumps are the same. You need the turbo AFM, not MAF since these cars didn't have a MAF. Yes you need to tap a return, or just buy a turbo oil pan. Get an automatic turbo oil pump, as its supposed to push more oil. You can just "wire" in the turbo ecu and go, but that requires a lot of wire tracing. All piping is pretty much going to be custom, although MSA sells an s30 downpipe, You can also run the stock rubber turbo pipe. I would invest in aftermarket gauges for Boost and A/F

You're not to far from JohnC. He's in La Habra. I'd go through him if I was that close. http://www.betamotorsports.com/ Obviously, the more you do, the less it will cost you. I was quoted by my welder about $300. That was to clear and cut out the tops, line up the new ones, and weld them in. That was not including the price of him removing the old crap and putting the new crap in.

P79 or P90 head, have the best combustion chamber design. If you want to run low boost, go with flattops, if you want to run high boost you should run dished. All the wiring is here in the forums somewhere to wire up a 280z.

Domz comes to mind. I'm pretty sure he has an LSx in his zx. I'd rather do this is a ZX than a Z (s30) for a lot of reasons: stiffer chassis, better suspension, already plumbed for FI (talking about early S30's here), more creature comfots that are pretty much already in place. People don't do it because the ZX just doesn't look as good to most people. I personally love the lines of it.