BluDestiny

Dude a jimmy could be used to pop the latch and a screwdriver could be used to start the car. I've personally verified that I can get to my ignition switch and start the car in under 60 seconds, (assuming door was open/window was broken as I've had my car broken into for the CD player)

I know Yasin made one, maybe try searching for it, not sure if it was a vid or a graph or both. He even had the stock exhaust on. Then he did it with a better exhaust. Found it, but the pics/vids have been moved or deleted http://www.zcar.com/70-83_tech_discussion_forum/how_much_hp_does_a_custom_3.5in_exhaust_add..dyno_run_today_881490.0.html

So is your car running?

I don't think that's enough to warrant fear. For a simple "hi-comp" mod people normally shave .08 off to get 10:1. So you'd be less than that. http://datsunzgarage.com/p90/ As for the shims, what does the machine shop say you should do? Normally they should know.

Can you post a picture directly behind and above it? it looks kinda cool. Except maybe you can't see out of it.

There is a write up, going from auto climate control to manual, but I have no idea where to find it. Search google, this website, classic z car, and zcar.com

Are you planning on being competitive? I do quite well with my pretty much stock EFI. All I have are headers. All my work is in the suspension. But if you really want a project, I'd get the car running, then do suspension and brakes and such, then do the engine swap, then paint and body.

Contact DIYautotune.com. Give them a call, tell them specs, what you want to accomplish, how much you want to spend and if you plan on future upgrades. They will tell you everything

PLease take pictures of everything you have to wire up manually, I am going to be in the same boat at you next spring when I can work on my ZX. I have an 80 but the wiring should pretty much be the same.

Definitely visit beta motorsports, John would know the places to go and they are 15 min from MSA.

You can swap pinion and ring gears but the las can be messes up so either be safe and do it by the book or bring it to someone. For the price of bearings you can easily pick up a "new" junkyard diff. And yes, I stand by the "I'm not a very techincal person, but I'd rather be safe than sorry", meaning I'd replace it.

I like the sleeper look. That is my goal with maybe a front lip.

Well the rear end clunk could honestly be a lot of things like a torn diff bushing or strap, but knowing you drove about 20-30 min without oil should be a no brainer to replace all consumables in your diff. Just because you don't see any visible shrapnel doesn't mean the races of the bearings aren't toast. Honestly how much can they cost anyway. Maybe some pics would help us also. As for the smell, gear oil has a very distinct smell, so it you say it's gear oil I believe you there. On top of that you don't list the diff (r180 or r200) and don't list the car so that we could even guess. Also what kind of axles? the regular half shaft or did you upgrade to CV's (assuming you're using an r200)

I don't think anyone has this movie. In Black Dynamite (2009) near the end there is a Z in a driveway when Black Dynamite is talking to some children.

You leaked oil out of your diff, then drove it and finally blew off you're diff cover. And you expect it to be ok?

Tony, are you saying you can get past it? or do you stay below it? because the way my friend has been driving it he has jsut kept the RPM below 2000

I would really like to see this pictures. a Mod deleted them from the size. edit: Could be a number of things, off the top of my head, bent frame, could be the bushings for the subframe are destroyed so its moving around, could be the bushings in the control arm. Could have been in an accident and had some shody body work done to fix it and they made it look good, but measured wrong.

You can use them on a 2+2, but the angle of the hatch is steeper on a 2+2 so they are not as upright. They are angled more rearward. Just search here and google for some pics. Doesn't look bad and I've seen 2 in person.

Try Zilvia. They pop up there like every week.

It's not a ZX-R wing. Whatever brand this wing is it was made specifically for the s30 chassis. The s130 rear hatch is wider so it wouldn't even look good. And yes the ZX-R wing did not have the grooves. Also Savage I don't know what you're talking about. I drove cross country two times with this wing on and I hit a max of 125ish with no ill effects. Maybe on a completely stock ZX. My car was more dropped in the front and I did have a Gnose on. Jmortensen is right stating that's probably because of all the downforce in the front.

You could easily source a P90 or a P79. Just put a wanted add up. P79 will be cheaper. I believe I sold my last p79 for $60 or $80. But yes watch out for the exhaust liners breaking off. I do know 1 person running a turbo p79 at the moment with no ill effects.

Polyurethane bushings and tokico illumina shocks and tokico springs is the best thing you could probably do, other than better looking rims and stickier tires. SleeperZ is right, that's an R200, and it is rated at more than 200hp. I don't know where you read that but forget it. Also you're probably not pushing close to 200. Can't make an accurate guess without a full break down of your engine build, but your stock EFI is the biggest factor. You could find a higher geared diff to put in. The clunking is probably your diff mount.

NewZed is correct, and no you can't use you're stock flywheel if it's the 225mm surface. You need to use a 240mm surface flywheel. You can however use a 240mm flywheel with a 225mm clutch.

So did you ever figure out what was the problem?

Everything looks amazing *drool*