BluDestiny

I know pallnet makes them, as well as cockerstar. They cost about $150 shipped to you and come with all the fitting needed. I know when I got mine I got the regular brass fittings, but when I actually put it together I opted to go SS for looks. Here is a cost breakdown: $150 for rail and rail fittins $120 for the FPR $60 in misc AN fittings $50 for the SS line $25 for an AN fuel filter I used this bad boy. No problems yet

How many miles are on it? I did the same thing (took the sides off) and my friend told me to get new bearings for it anyway. I believe it would need to be reshimmed anyway, as there should be shims behind those parts. I had the fortune of finding two though, ones in my car now and the other on a shelf with an LSD center center waiting to go.

I need a new AFM that works ASAP. PM me here shipping would be to 32114. As long as it isn't ridiculously priced I'll take it shipped. Prefer to use priority as I'd like to drive my car by the end of the week. Car is a 1980 base model. It DID NOT have and egr if that makes a difference. I'll paypal you asap. Please send a picture if you can.

Ok update, decided to check the spark plugs and they were black as coal. So I got some new ones popped them in and nothing changed. At this point I gave up and brought it to my mechanic. He said its probably the afm or cylinder head temp sensor on the side of the block. He took out the fsm and told me to find out how to test them. Found that with a mulitmeter the cylinder head temp sensor should be reading between 2.1k ohm and 2.9k ohm. Well it was reading 1.4k ohm. Ok so I need to replace that. He also told me to check the afm since it was easy to get to and it was his multimeter. well turns out the air temp sensor in the afm is off too. fsm said between 2.1-2.8k ohm, and it read 1.4k ohm. So I ordered a new cylinder head temp sensor and need a new afm asap.

Glad to hear you're ok, sorta. But considering the speed you were going its amazing you managed to survive with semi minor injuries. I bet you with you still had that bench seat front bumper on though.

The only other time I've seen that footrest thing was in my friend 78 Fairlady s130. He said it was like an old JDM thing so passengers could rest their feet.

Necro bump.....lol Flare aren't ugly if done right. and you could easily fit a 8" wide wheel with no problem

OK messed with it a little more today and took a video Ignore the first start, but at 10 sec you can see how low it idles. I try and rev it and it sounded off so I let off. At 40 I shut it down, at this point the car has almost reached operating temp and I restart it without any throttle help. It just starts then flops. Last start I use throttle and then let off and it very nicely comes down and lopes from 500-750rpm.

Not heat soak. Like I said it has defiantly been hotter and I have not had this problem. I've done autox events shutting the engine off after a lap and starting it back on again 15 min later for my next lap and it never had this problem. Messed with it again, changed the tps position back to about where it used to be and changed put the idle a little lower. Was working better, but on decel it would pop and backfire out the muffler bad. Worse than normal. At least it started and idled fairly normal. Also while I was going through the gears every now and then when I would floor it it would just hit a wall, like a rev limiter, at 3k. Mostly in 1st, 2nd and 3rd since I couldn't get up to speed. This would happen every other time I took off from a light almost at random. The starting issue isn't there any more either. It seems to just start up just fine now. At least tonight it did. I will report more tomorrow. I'm almost convinced it's something like the timing is just slightly off. Like the rattling of the car just moved the dizzy a little.

I believe you can message Brapp, and ask him. I'm like 99% sure you can actually send a check in to someone.

Vapor lock has never been a problem to me before, but the temp gauge is just a tab before half. That's normal for it. I do not have a fuel prime...I didn't know the ZX's had that. My 81 didn't have that either Also I don't have an aux fan. I only have 2 12" electric fans to my radiator with a shroud. I'm also running a pallnet like fuel rail and an N42 shaved intake. This is roughly what it looks like minus the harness Really don't think its heat soak, only because I've been driving it all summer and its been much hotter ( the car and ambient temp) and I still haven't had problems.

Ok so what my car does is as soon as I start it, it will turn over nice and normal, but then die out unless I give it gas and let the tach "smooth out" as it were instead of bouncing around. once it is equalized its fine though. Just on start up, after its been sitting for 30+ min. Backstory: My car was fine driving around last week. Took it on a 1 hour drive to Orlando with my GF and back. Had no problems, on either trip. I was a little low on gas, below 1/8 of a tank by the time I got back home, I don't normally let it run that low. Next day I drive it to work and again no real problems. Then when I try and leave it won't start. I had to really give it gas to get it to start and stay on. A little embarrising, but that's what old cars are for. I hadn't filled up yet mind you, but a round trip to my work is like 4 miles. I get it home and park it, planning on checking it out in the morning. Morning; I try and start it and it hardly runs, like its running on 3 cylinders. My assumption was that it just needed gas, as this car hasn't given me problems yet since I got it running in November of 2011. I daily drive it so I would notice little things, but I've never had an engine problem. So I get some gas and it seems to start a little better, but then 2 hours later after it cools down, no dice. I can't even get it to start. I assumed that the O2 sensor is gunked up since the car runs a little rich, so I go and get a replacement that day put it in and it still doesn't run that well. Next day; So I checked the dizzy and the cap and rotor were corroded. I'm thinking that's the problem, I picked them up today and put them on. It starts but takes a while for it to settle out ( the rpms I mean), drive it around the neighborhood and bit and it dies as soon as I always shift to neutral like when I come to a stop sign. Other than that it was running good when it was in motion and in gear, had a little trouble revving past 3k, but that went away after 10 min of driving. So I get it back to my house let it idle for a bit and begin checking if all the injectors are firing, they are. So I notice the volt meter is a little low, so I tighten up the belt. I also mess with the TPS ( turned the whole unit clockwise) and the idle screw ( turned it out ever so slightly). Take it around the block and it runs like a champ. It smoothly comes down to a nice idle at 750-850, and doesn't hiccup a bit. So I bring it back in, shut it off and start it back on again without having to give it gas. about an hour later I went back out to check on it and it wouldn't start without a light feathering of the gas until the rpms equalized. Had to shut it off and head to work before I could mess with it more. I'm actually thinking that the problem will only be worse when the car is completely cold. Side note: The fuel pressure is set to 35 according to my aeromotive FPR. There is a slight leak that depressurizes the rail when I shut it off after about 20 min, but it has never been a problem. The car would start normally when it read 0 psi. So if that was a little long, things I did do: Replace o2 sensor, replace dizzy cap and rotor, adjust the tps all the way clockwise and turn out the idle screw a tad. Car runs fine when it is moving and driving. Just the start up is annoying. Car is a 1980 280zx base model, I have a shaved intake with no idle up or cold start injector, and 6-2 headers. I had the o2 sensor installed right at the collector instead of just on one of the runners. I will upload pictures of anything anyone has a question about, maybe even a video of what is going on if need be. Lastly sorry for the amount of detail, but I've learned that detail will only make it easier for everyone.

I wouldn't worry too much for a stock motor, if it was running decently before, then it will again. My friend had an 87 corolla and he had never changed the coolant. Well he decided too and the coolant was orange. so we replaced it and put in green stuff. 1 week later we checked on it and it was orange again (though not as bad as the first time). Never had any overheating problems though.

It will work fine. I got one for my F54 flattop/ shaved p90 combo. My pistons are 1mm over and I haven't had problems so far. Driven about 30k miles and several autox's recentely I got mine on sale for around $200 when 5 years ago on some sale that MSA was having. Even though it was a good buy, I will admit that I was young and stupid and thought it would give me a ton of hp.

This is what I did. And if I had kept my interior I would not do it this way (obviously) I tore out that metal frame and just used some custom speaker boxes to mount the speakers somewhat level, I originally wanted them angled up like stock, but figured I could carry more with it level. I can hear fine for city driving, but when I hit the freeway I get a bad drone from my exhaust (headers and 2.5" all the way to a muffler) and have to crank it up. Either way I don't have AC so if it's hot I also have to put my windows down. I'm basically saying that I have a crapton of other sounds anyway and perfect sound was never really an option for me, which is fine. I had to drive cross country at one point listening to my phone music. After that I decided that something is better than nothing.

This is awesome. I have something to read at work now.

How does it act when you're at 40? like do the rpms hit a wall, or do the rpms climb and it just doesn't do anything? You should ask you're friend if he did any mods to the car, or where he was taking it to if he wasn't doing the work.

I'd love to go just to spectate it once in my life. im going to be in France though.

You may need a spacer to clear the strut housing. I think 4.5" of backspacing is needed, and that rim has like 5.5" of backspacing.

I thought they had a gauge that read higher. I know I place in Burbank where they had just the gauge for $25 or get this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Hydraulic-Liquid-Filled-Pressure-Gauge-0-60-PSI-/261069826488?pt=Pneumatic_Hydraulic_Valves_Parts&hash=item3cc8f969b8#ht_500wt_1287

No, you should have 30-35psi

How did they measure it at autozone? I'm talking about something like this: You can get a cheap plastic POS at autozone for like $15

Could be a clogged fuel rail itself? Stock fuel pressure is like 35. Are you getting 15psi right after the fuel filter?

Its sooooo clean.

I've always run two. In my 260 I had one as constant on since I removed my clutch fan and then one switch activated when I wanted to use the AC or was doing a canyon run. In my 280zx I have 2 fans with a metal shroud and both are wired to a single switch; I have to run them after my car warmps up because my Gnose front end does not allow enough air to pass through and it is very turbulent because of the gap between the lip and the radiator . Whether or not you are using a shroud makes a big difference.