BluDestiny

It will sit like a reverse funny car. To my knowledge the rear struts in 280z's are like a few inches longer than the fronts.

I want a truck and when I do I'm getting either a Tundra or a Titan. My roommate has a titan and its pretty nice, even for the base model. I'm actually familiar with it since I have to borrow it from time to time. As for a tundra, well.... http://www.caranddriver.com/reviews/toyota-tundra-trd-supercharged-first-drive-review Only Tundra I'd own... Edit, I have no real experience with a tundra, just think they are awesome. The titan on the other hand could handle everything I'd ever throw at it.

Because of how fast I need this stuff, shipping is out of the question, I can only do local. I'm in the Los angeles area and am willing to drive 1 hour to get this stuff.

So I obliterated my front Gnose with a rock during my cross country trip and would like to look halfway decent with a regular front bumper and front lip/airdam. If anyone has them let me know. I need them asap as I'm leaving on thursday Aug 23rd. Also for my friends car I'm looking for a 79-80 ECU and with harness to plug into everything. Bonus if you can also include the TB to that harness. MY number is 818-919-4242. Need this asap, so call or text me. I can pick it up same day

Question: has this ever affected you? My 280zx has never primed to my knowledge yet has near had an issue starting while my fuel gauge read 0psi

What do you mean everything to put a turbo on? Your biggest mechanical factor is the injectors. Like NewZed said you'd have to ramp up the pressure, and that will never make it run right. But you could maybe get away with 5-7psi with it like that. Don't know how long it would last though.

There is no such thing as bolt on coilovers. That car uses strut cartridges for the front that that you just plop into a tube. That tube also has the spindle for the wheel hub and bolts directly to the control arm. In this pic, the middle is a stock strut tube with no cartridge, notice how it also has the spring seat, the far right is a full unit directly pulled from my car, the left is when I chopped most of the tube off and test fit an s13 coilover over the tube for welding. Then I chopped off this crap from the lower coilover sleeve. mounting bracket and brake line This is the finished product after welding on the sleeve and powdercoating.

About to start tearing into this thing. I'll report back when I'm thoroughly frustrated

Sunrise tried a usdm ecu and it didn't even crank. Guessing the pin outs are different. My friend has gotten a lead on a used ecu from new Zealand, but for $350 not including shipping. In my opinion swapping over to usdm components can only make trouble shooting and replacing parts easier. Vigges concern is how much it wraps into the main harness, like if I swap in the usdm ecu and harness with the gauges work etc...

So I got my car all sorted out and now that I'm home my friend has asked for my help. What is happening is that when the car is (normally) warmed up to operating temp. While the car is under load only it will literally just lose all throttle response until it goes back to a normal idle. Like it won't hot a wall, or have problems running, the gas pedal just has no effect and it will drop revs. Its like the car is resetting to idle. The car was over at sunrise Z and art was checking it out, but it has him stumped too. They replaced the tps (with a usdm one) since since the original was toast and it supposedly ran a little better. Art thinks is may be the ecu, like a lose connection inside the unit or something. Now I'm not a fan off all the irreplaceable jdm stuff so i will attempt to swap a jdm ecu and harness in. But to do that the jdm intake manifold and throttle body need to be changed as well. Does anyone have suggestions why this won't work? Like an issue with it connected to certain sensors. I will try to change as many sensors over as i can to get it to run.

Do you go to asu? My cousin lives there and I actually broke down in Scottsdale like 4 days ago. As for the car I would buy it for cheap or expecting to part of out or strip it and build it from the ground up. Either way I would only get it cheap.

Ok so you actually corrected the camber by welding the centerline of the joint different. At first I thought you just raised the outside joint, but I see you offset both. Inside high and outside low right? Did you leave it like that or grind down the half cut old bushing holders? Edit: also are you still using your slotted subframe or did you just get another?

In my 280zx I run Valvoline VR1 20w-50, the conventional kind. That engine was rebuilt with forged pistons, but I'm using stock ECU and such. In my old 260z with webers I used to run Royal Purple 10w-40 on a fresh rebuild.

Does that power rack have more motion than the manual?

Yeah they don't have a removable bracket. Just the fixed ears. Just gotta search for a maxima.

78zstyle, nothing a little modification and a sledge won't fix. I know ppk managed to get some clifford research headers in his.

Have you tried calling Mallory? Might be able to get a warranty repair of try are new.

Got a new FPR in the mail. I got the same exact one as it made it a remove and replace job. Took me 30min tops. Anyway car is idles prefect, starts a sec after the key is turned, holds pressure much better ( I said the old one would bleed off pressure in like 5 min). So I'm about to start my cross country journey, hoping ot make it back to my home town Burbank by Saturday night. I'm sure all the other parts I changed helped too though

the subi diffs have a 27 spline and I think the only half shafts ( things that to into the dif) that work are johnc's at beta motorsports. I know that the 280z's had some 27 spline half shafts, but they may be for an r200

Everyone swears by the ford Taurus fan. I don't have any preference but I can say that running without a shroud I normally had hotter temps than with a shroud.

More than likely from jdm land. I've never seen it before and it looks flipping sweet. edit: well without a frontal it almost looks ricey from all the openings. And that dudes ride height, jebus.

Welcome, and first a few things: 1. Use proper grammar and stuff. Makes it easier to read. 2. Post some pics of your car 3. We need to know if it's completely stock or not, did the po add anything? And sounds like either a air flow meter or fuel pressure regulator problem. What is your fuel pressure at idle?

Cheapest, easiest method would be to cut them out and use fender flare. Don't know if you're going for that look or not, but if I knew my arches looked like that I would have flares in a heartbeat.

Pics of you're heim control arms sir. Also what about you're toe problem? Did the heim joints solve that too?

Swapped in the a working afm, only to have a new problem arise. The diaphragm in my aeromotive fpr ruptured and was sending a steady stream into my intake through the vacuum port. Should have a new one in by wednesday, if I can't find one by tomorrow.