BluDestiny

a hair dryer on low. Or just use a really fine wire brush. They are electrical connectors, just use common sense when cleaning and drying them.

Worlds fastest indian is a great movie.

haven't tried liking posts yet, although one of my posts was liked. I'm interested edit: just liked one of your posts. It may be from your low post count?

OK I'm finally back and reunited with my car. Had a brief study abroad stint in France for the last 4 months. Basically got back to California on December 27th, and after like 6 days drove the thing back to Florida. It had a horrible exhaust leak that I should have taken care of before I left, but didn't. Because of the leak the car was running rich and it smelled horrible and made that stupid fluttering sound. Hit some snow in New Mexico/West texas which slowed me down a little, but my trusty old datsun made it. As soon as I got back to Daytona Beach I rinsed off the bottom of the car, did an oil change and changed out the intake/exhaust gasket. Ran a lot better. Now I'm almost ready to start my Turbo swap (although I've been saying that for like a year now)

Sounds like a vacuum leak from cracked rubber somewhere. I would check around the AFM first since that's what you were messing around with.

Well count me in then.

What about toe? on my ZX I have about 1* of toe from it being low. Also what about modifying the actual trailing arm? I know Purepontiackid basically chopped up his rear control arms and welded on heim joints in an offset pattern. With this this and heim joints in the regular location, toe would be adjustable as well. This is a pretty neat kit, how much more time before you think they get made?

I really like the new front bumper, looks super aggressive.

There was someone on this board who used the subie diff with the subia axles (modified to fit of course) and it literally came out to about the same price as just getting the betamotorsports halfshafts. The subie axles are cv axles. The Z axles are not. He had to modify the wheel side of the subie axles to work with the datsun wheel bolt pattern ( I think he had a custom made adapter) and he had to shorten the axles, he did that by ordering custom length axles. Just "google subie dif in datsun 240z" or something. That's how I found it. also double check your diff. Here is a picture of an R200, left, and R180 right: Pretty sure yours is an R200, so the 3.7 isn't really that hard to explain.

Just a little more info, I know the person who started this thread and his car is getting screwed. http://zilvia.net/f/south-western-states/488493-new-2013-smog-station-changes-rules-california.html

I use ebay to buy brand clutches for less. Like an OEM exedy clutch kit on ebay will be $50 less than on a parts store website.

Yeah the most I've seen in person is 196rwhp from some twim SU's. He had an amazing port job and was bored 40 over, but for the most part it was all very stock. He made power from 6-7kr rpm. His carbs only had some other needles if I remember. He did not have to bore them out like what some people do.

The Combo is fine, just know that you need beta motorsports halfshafts to use your original stub axles. Your stub shafts will not be plug and play. The KA trans has identical ratios to a late (I think) 280zx tranny. So that really won't change anything except your ability to replace the trannies easier. You can download a free factory service manual at xenons30.com

Its an MSA lip http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/7FAD/50-1436

You would more than likely need spacers, Not sure how much though. There just isn't enough clearance between the caliper and the back face of the rim. If you contact baharacer he would know, he runs silvermine motors and they sell the same exact kit.

On my nearly stock 280zx I use an exedy stage one. Works great, super easy and streetable like a stock clutch. On my 200hp 260z I was running a Spec stage 3 6-puck and that thing was a total bitch to daily. Grabbed like crazy. If you're DDing this car I would go with one that is not a 6-puck but something with 2 materials. Spec makes decent clutches.

If you're doing this brake upgrade its for performance, so I would go with bigger tires anyway. I'd say go find some nice 16x8's

I probably would have suggested the welding a nut thing. Or go buy a huge pair of locking pliers from harbor freight.

There is a nicely restored one sitting in the Sunrize Z shop, no engine, but has a cage, frame modifications, and was completely sandblasted and repainted. Last I heard they want $4k for the shell with a few suspension parts to roll it.

Zforce also has a couple kits. http://www.zforceproductions.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=38&Itemid=12 I was rocking the Gnose for a bit, until I hit a rock on the highway and smashed it up. So far that's my favorive since it cut the eight down the most and reduced drag a lot. I cna feel the difference without it. Now I'm just doing the regular xenon front lip like everyone else. Also Pure pontiac kid has a kamiari kit he found in the junk yard.

Hi def just curious but have you read this one also? I want to know if it's helpful since it's the guide I will be using. http://www.strausz.us/zcar/turboswap/

I own a Kona dew delux, but I'm not pro race or anything. Decided to start biking to work (about 4 miles away) back in high school. started riding all over the. I've done one century ride but that is the farthest I will ever go. Bike is currently in Cali, but this semester I will be taking it with me to FL to bike

They look like those rota sakuras

You could find a used flywheel for probably $40. I just bought one for my 240sx used for $25. You will also need a clutch, I'd suggest exedy oem. They can be had on ebay for less than $150 for everything

I can't believe I forgot about the lower radiator hose. Yeah that's probably it.